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Hiotographic 

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Corporation 


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CIHM/iCMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


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D 


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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


12X 


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16X 


y 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
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shall  contain  the  symbol  -h»>  (meaning  "CON- 
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conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

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par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenp ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ♦►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  I'angie  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  k  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
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JhMJAat/  6j/  I.Itiley,  isto . 


iiiniit.ii  litwaiii 


TRAVELS 


ON 


AN  INLAND  VOYAGE 


fHHOUGH  THlf 


S^AW  OF  NEW.YORK,  PENNSYLVANIA,  VIHGINJJ. 
OHIO,  KENTUCKY  AND  TENNESSEE, 


AND  TSTHOUOII 


THE  TERRITORJE^oF  INDIANA,  LOVISIANAy^ 
MISSISSIPPI  AND  NEtV-aULEANS, 


■  A 


4 


PBRFQJIMKB 

,1  i»»J  •    , 


IN,tHETft;AIiS  1807  ANI>  1808; 
INCLUDING    A   TWR   OF   NEARLY   SIX   THOUSA 


ND   MILES. 


WITH  MAPS  AND  PLATES. 


BY  CHRISTIAN  SCJIULTZ,  JUN,  ESQ. 


I 


»■  . 


,  IN  TWO  VOLUMES VOL.  I. 


f| 


NEW-YORK  : 

Printed  by  Isaac  Riley. 

isto. 


i 


■M 


-M 


DISTRICT  OF  NEW-YORK,  w. 
R^,/\'*!'^^^V'^'**'^'^'  'T'"'^  ""  the  twentieth  day  of  March    in 
thrtVt  e  Va  twk   t  .t  rili.      u"  «'•'«'"';'■'."'•  '•"'*'  '''•P"«ted  in  .his  office 

"  Te  ri^Hey,^J^i"di;na^'t.'^""'"''''ir*?  T''"."e»'>ee.  and  th^gh  the 
"  «. ...     I  ^     u     Indiana,   LomsianH,   Wigtiss  pp  and  New-Orleana  •  ner. 

copies  during  the  Umes  therein  mentioned  ;"  and  also  t   an  act  entiUed 
«  5-"lea.^ni'n"rK      ""'*•''  V  '"'^  «"^'"«'»' «"  ««*  for  the  enco  wSt" 
auinois  ana  proprietdm  of  such  copies,  dur  n«r  the  times  therein  mon 
graving  and  etching  historical  and  othef  prints."  «^'"K'"nK.  lb- 

CHARLES  CLINTON, 
Clerk  of  the  District  of  New-York. 


PREFACE. 


THE  folio  rt-ing  letters  were  not  originally  intended  for 
the  eye  of  the  public,  but  were  written  rather  as  a  means 
of  recreation  to  the  author,  and  of  amusement  to  his  par- 
ticular friend.  Nor  does  he  now,  but  with  the  greatest 
diffidence,  and  after  repeated  solicitations,  consent  to  their 
being  made  public. 

From  the  earliest  information  he  had  acquired  respect- 
ing the  geographical  situation  of  the  route  he  has  travelled, 
it  has  always  been  a  favourite  object  with  him,  at  some  time 
or  other,  to  undertake  this  voyage,  as  well  to  view  the  cele- 
brated cataracts  of  Niagara,  as  to  acquire  a  personal  know- 
ledge of  the  country. 

Although  yet  young  in  life,  he  has  always  been  accus- 
tomed to  combine  pleasure  with  profit ;  and  had  not  some 
land  speculations  required  his  presence  in  that  country,  in 
all  probability  this  voyage  had  still  remained  to  be  per- 
formed. 

The  route  is  generally  known,  yet,  strange  as  it  may  ap- 
pear, no  correct  information  could  be  obtained  as  to  the 
distances,  mode  of  travelling,  the  time  required,  the  ex- 
penses incurred,  nor  of  the  risks  and  dangers  to  be  encoun- 
■tered.  These  inquiries  have  been  particularly  attended 
to  ;  and  the  minuteness  and  fideUty  with  which  they  will  be 
found  to  be  answered,  is  perhaps  the  only  merit  to  which 
he  can  lay  claim. 

The  Map  of  the  United  States,  including  the  whole  of 
Louisiana,  is  intended  to  shew  at  one  view  the  principal 
rivers  and  towns  nf  the  interior,  with  the  relative  situation 


IV 


If 


ol"  the  clucf  rivfirs,  towns  and  cities  on  the  sca-coa«t.  It 
is  not,  there  f-  re,  crowded  with  names  aid  boundary  lines. 

The  Maps  of  tlic  rotite  from  New-York  to  Pittsl)uigh, 
from  Piti!<bi'.rjrh  to  thn  mouth  of  tfie  Ohio,  and  from  the 
Ohio  to  the  (iulf  of  Mexico,  are  all  corrected  from  obser- 
vation and  experience.  Tiic  latitudes  of  most  of  the  prin- 
cipal points  arc  quoted  froni  actual  observutions,  a  few  from 
their  distances  and  bcaiir.gs  by  the  compass.  The  maps 
may  be  considered  as  more  correct  than  any  yet  puliUshcd. 

The  author  will  not  conceal  that  an  additional  motive  for 
eon'-entiny  to  the  publication  of  these  letters,  was  the  peru- 
sal of  a  volume  lately  ',:i:l'lishf'd,  entitled,  "  Travels  in, 
"  ^mericot  by  Thomaa  Aab^  Jim/."  purporting  to  be  a  part 
of  the  same  rotrte  which  he  has  travelled.  From  a  careful 
examination  of  ihis  work,  wliich  is  found  to  abound  in  mia- 
lakesy  nnarr/trcacnrutiona  and ^cljoniry  in  almost  every  page, 
I  lie  author  does  not  hesitate  to  declare,  that  in  his  opinion 
the  w/tolc  is  a  (oni/iiiaiioti,  taken  principally  from  «  IVie 
"  Pittahurgh  JVavigator  ;"•  nor  docs  he  believe  that  any  such 
person  ever  travelled  the  route  pretended  to  be  described. 
Out  of  a  hundred  instances  which  might  be  recited,  the 
following  is  selected,  us  conclusive  evidence  of  the  English 
ti-avellcr's  ignorance  of  the  geography  of  the  river  Ohio, 
which  he  pretends  to  have  descended,  viz. 

The  diiy  preceding  his  arrival  at  Marietta,  he  «  perceived 
"  a  fall  in  the  river,  and  that  the  current  wore  through  it 
"  in  the  form  of  a  Z.  Tlie  channel  was  veiy  little  broader 
"  than  the  Ijout,  confined  between  rocks,  the  slightest  touch 
"  against  which  would   dash  her  to  pieces.     I  ordered  the 


•  This  aiillior,  amonp^  other  falsities,  infopma  us  he  understood, 

vvliile  at  Pitt.sburj,^h,  th:a  *  work  was  piejjarirtg  for  the  press,  called 
the  '•  PiUsburgh  Navig'ator."  The  trutii  is,  tJiat  liule  work  had 
li'en  publislitd  nearly  two  years  ;  and  tlie  writer  of  "  Ash's  Tra- 
vela"  must  have  been  in  possession  of  a  copy,  as  the  whole  isfoiind 

inlcnpcrscil  tln-o'igh  iii'j  work,  verbativia  literatim. 


"V     t 


«  men  to  keep  «  steady  ttroke,  not  on  any  account  to  Abaa. 
"  tk>n  tlu;  oiU»,  or  to  be  uUi-mucI  at  the  noiiC  of  tJu;  flfwd. 
«  The  boat  uutantly  twjk  the  finrt  suction  of  Ujc  full,  in- 
«  creused  b  velocity  to  a  jfreat  dejjrce,  puasexl  through  all 
"  the  mazes  of  the  channel  till  she  came  to  the  last  4cH£«fit, 
«  when  tumhlinR,  tost,  and  regardless  of  her  helm,  shu«pua 
"  rounfl  a»d  roimd,  and  at  length  shot  ahead  down  the 
"  stream.  Astonishing  country  !  Here  again  the  hills  sub- 
«  sided,  the  face  of  nature  smil,  d,  tin-  current  difl'used,  and 
"  the  river  became  a  perfect  calm  On  looking  hack  to 
"  contemplate  the  dangi  r  I  had  just  escaped,  I  could  but 
"  faintly  see  the  foaming  s.ngc,  or  hear  the  horrid  clamour. 
"  I  never  experienced  a  more  eventful  moment  than  in  the 
"  passage  of  that  fall."     (See  page  121.) 

There  is  no  tuch  fall,  nor  indeed  any  other,  on  any  part 
of  the  Ohio  above  Marietta.  This  traveller  has  only  made 
a  trifling  mistake  of  about  ninety-aix  miles.  The  "  Pitts- 
«  burgh  Navigator,"  while  describing  the  passage  of  Le- 
tart's  Fd<ls,  speaks  in  language  which  might  well  deceive 
the  traveller  in  hia  closet,  and  afford  a  favourable  opportu- 
nity for  exercisijig  his  talents, '  in  giving  a  highly  coloured 
picture,  and  magnifying  the  dangers  and  horrors  of  his 
situation  while  descending  this  fierfiendicitlar  fall,  which 
every  boy  in  the  neighbourhood  would  delight  to  puss  in  a 
tub. 

Although,  according  to  the  English  traveller's  descrip- 
tion, in  1806,  these  falls  were  found  about  twenty ^fve  miles 
above  Marietta,  yet,  in  1807,  the  author  found  them  where 
they  have  always  been  situated,  that  is,  seventy-one  miles 
belo'.:;  Marietta. 

In  cori-ei  '.ng  these  letters  for  the  press,  it  was  found 
necessary  M,  appress  a  considerable  proportion  of  some  of 
the  originals,  M-hich,  alUiough  acceptable  to  a  friend,  miglit 


\ 


VI 

not  be  equally  agreeable  to  the  public.  Perhaps  a  more 
liberal  use  of  the  sponge  would  still  improve  the  remainder, 
yet  such  as  they  are,  they  are  now  before  the  public;  all 
the  mem  the  author  can  claim  for  them,  is  a  strict  adhe- 
rence  to  the  truth,  without  exaggeration  or  embellish- 
ment. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


LETTER  I. 

'^i^any.'„Schen€ctady.,.,Mohawk  Rw€r....Freight 
....Fort  Hunter....Canojoharie....Little  Falls.... 
Locks  and  CanaL..TolL..Utica,  Fort  Schuyler 

'y^reight.,..DeerJield....miitestown...,Fevijish 
in  the  Mohawk  River.  .  i 


LETTER  IL 

Rome,  Fort  Stanwicc....Freight....mod  Creek.... 
Locks... .Toll.... Salmon  and  at hei-  fine  fish.... A  ^ 
Bear....Fish  Creek....Fort  Royal,  Oneida  Lake 
....Oneida  Indians.... Night  fishing  on  the  Lake.... 
Rott€rdam....Lake  in  Blossom....Fever  and  Ague 
Seeds... . Onondago  River....  Three  River  Point. 

15 

LETTER  III.     , 

Freight  to  Oswego....Seneca  River....Salt  Lake.... 
Curious  hypothesis  concerning  this  Lake....Li. 
verpooL..Salina....Sait   Prorks.... Oswego  River 


Vlll 


wid  Falh...,Oswego  Town  and  Fort....  Trade  and 
Shipping....  Fish  plmty.  .  .  29 

LETTER  IV. 

Lake  Ontario.... Storm...,Presque Isle,  Upper  Can- 
ada.... Short  of  pravismns....Better  fare,  ..Massa- 
sau^o  Indians....Fi^h  pic ntifiU.,.. Land  good....A  | 
Tavern....  Canadian  politics....  Anxious  for  war.... 
Opinion  of  tite  port  officar.         ,  .        44 

..v:^    .•  ■'  ..     .'    .   ■  .  ^     / 

.AvvmA'.(1.  .  ,         LETTER  v.  ^ 

w  :\  rv-.^\  ..  ■■.,,' 

Laice  Ontario.... Schooner .  Hunter..,,  Xork....Expe. 
riment  to  obtain  cool  water.... Hear  the  Falls  of 
Niagara  at  twenty  miles  distant.... Light  House 
....West  Niagara....Niagara  River.... Canadian 
politics  andpurtialities....Fort  Niagara....Young'$ 
Torwn.... Freight  and  passage.         -         -         52 

LETTER  VL 

Qiieen's  2own...,Lewis  Town....More  partialities... 
Devil's  Diving  Hole....Anecdote....Tuscarora  In- 
dians and  village....Whirlpool....Description  of 
the  Falls  of  Niagara,  as  observed  from  the  Canada 
shore...Experiments....Niagara  River  impassable 
between  Chip paway  Village  and  the  Falls.... Anec- 
dot€s....Vapor  of  the  Falls  causes  diseases  in 
cattle.  -  .  „  -  58 


K 


'■*'*'m^ 


ix 


LETTER  VII. 

Chippawaynilage..,  ChippaivnyRwer...Descriptmi 
of  the  Falls  from  the  American  side....Rainbow.... 
Dangerous  passage  to  the  bottom  of  the  Falls..,. 
The  river  passable  at  one  spot  immediately  below 
the  Falls....Goat  Island....  Anecdotes....Visit  Goat 
Island...Inroads  of  the  Falls....  Indian  Accourit. 

74 

LETTER  VIII. 

Examination  of  the  Country  between  Lake  Erie 
and  Lake  Ontario....Remarks  on  the  form  of  the 
country,  and  probable  situation  of  the  Falls  an- 
ciently....Speculations....The  waters  of  Lake 
Erie  lower,  and  current  stronger,  than  formerly 
....Fort  Schlosser  Landing....Outlet  of  Lake 
Erie.  -  .  .  ,  34 

LETTER  IX. 

Freight  to  Fort  Schlosser,  or  Black  Rock... .Rattle- 
snakes  scarce....Fort  Erie....Village....More  Ca- 
nadian  partialities...Anecdote...Fine  /j/i...Flocks 
of  Black  >'quirrels....Buffaloe  Fdlage....Indian 
Council..., Games,  ,  .  ,  94. 

VOL.   I.  Q 


i^»^»i!!»*«fc.,iB» 


.^MmjJhHMI'^Mn 


LETTER  X. 

Lake  Erie.,. ..Storm Dangerous  navigation 

Freight  and  passage  to  Presque  Isle....Chau^ 
taughqu  Landing  and  Lake. ...Presque  Isle,  or 
Town  of  Erie....  Harbour....  Dispute  ofthe  Penn- 
sylvania Population  Company.. ..Fort... .General 
Anthony  Wayne. ...Fort  Le  Beauf  or  Water- 
ford.... Freight. ...Severe  frost  in  August. ...Le 
Beauf  Creek.  -  -  -  '103 

LETTER  XL 

Lake  Le  Beauf. ..French  Creek,...Meadville..„ 
Cassavja  Creek.... Fort  Franklin,  or  Franklin- 
ville.... Alleghany  River. ...Toby  Creek.... Sandy 
Creek.... Mahoning  Creek. ...Town  of  Armstrong 

Kiskemanitas    River Freeport Buffaloe 

Creek. ...A  Bear. ...An  Alleghany  supper....  Wild 
Turkeys. . . .  Fish. . . .  Pittsburgh. . . .  Freight  and  pas- 
sage.... Monongahe  la  jiiver.  -         -         114 

LETTER  XIL 


Ohio. ...Description  of  the  Boats  in  use  on  this  Ri- 
ver....Prices. ...Fort  M'Litosh,  or  Beaver.. ..Big 

Beaver  Creek Georgetown Steubenville..... 

Charlestown... Mingo  Bottom...  Warren... .Wheel- 
ing. . . .  Pxdtney. . . .  Grave    Creek. . . .  Coal, . , .  Freight 


and  passage. ...Fish.. ..River  turbid... .Height   of 

Freshes Little    Muskingiim     River Duck 

Creek. ...Marietta.. ..Great  Muskingum  River.... 
Fort  Harmar,... Improved  Ferry-boat.  129 

LETTER  XIII. 

Description  and  plan  of  the  Indian  Antiquities  found 
at  Maritetta.... Speculations.         -    '      .         14G 

LETTER  XIV. 

Excursion.... Lost  in  the  Woods.,.. Favourable  issue 
....Burros  Expedition... .Opinions.. ..Vienna.. ..Lit- 
tle Kanawa  River ^  and Bellepre....Big  Hockhock- 
ing  River....Belleville....Letart^s  Falls.. ..Point 
Pleasanty  and  Great  Kanawa  River. .. .Galliopo- 
lis....Big  Sandy  River.        -         -         -         160 

LETTER  XV. 

French  Grant. ...Great  Sciota  River... Portsmouth... 
Alexandria.. ..Vangeville,...  Salt  JVorks....  Squir- 
rels  Adamsburgh Manchester Liberty 

Limestone.... Cha7'lestown iugusta.... Columbia 

...Little  Miami  River. ..Cincinnati,   Fort  JFash- 
ingtouy  Nexvporty  and  Licking  River,  173 


■ffi^'i^i  ii,„ 


3(11 


LETTER  XVI. 

Great  Miami  River..  .Lawrenceburgh..,. Big  Bone 
Lick  Creek. ...Kentucky  River,  Port  William.,., 
rrestport.... Floating  Mills....Louisville,  Falls  of 
Ohio,  Jeffersonville,  and  Clarksville.  184 

LETTER  XVIL 

Salt  River..,  West.Point....Ohiopiomingo...Blue Ri. 
ver,...Flat  Country.... Green  River. ...Town  of 
Henderson,  or  Red  Banks. ...A  Bear....jrabash 
Rrver....Shawanese  Town....Salina  Creek....Cu- 
rio'usCavern....Cumberland River..., Smith  Town 
...,Bear  chace....Fogs,  and  falsity  of  vision  on  the 
Ohio.        ......         ^j,5 


'   ^Si-'L^4k.*M-::.. 


.       ,^ 


'    1.  < 


*.•• 


.V...?-' 


•V':f 


;f   ,< 


i»  '.'V 


■*iSf' 


■'<^-, 


VA 


n  •.  " 
V    » 


.    ..  • 


■     ♦  • . 

•        '•4. 


TABLE  DF  DISTANCES. 


FIjom  New- York  to  Albany,  is 

Schenectady,  " 

Fort  Hunt€r, 

Canojoharie, 

Little  Falls, 

Ut-ca,  Fort  Schuyler, 

Home,  Fort  Stanwix, 

Wood  Creek,  in  length, 

Oneida  Lake,  in  length, 

Onondago  River,  in  length, 

From  Three   River  Point  to 

Liverpool, 
Salina,  salt  works, 
Oswego  River,  in  length  to 

Lake  Ontario, 
Fort  Niagara,  Lake- Ontario, 
Lewistown  and  Queenstown, 
Niagara  Falls, 
Fort  Schlosser, 
Chippaway  Village, 
Black  Rock,  Lake  Erie, 
Fort  Erie  and  Village, 
Presque  Isle  and  Fort,   Lake 

Erie 
Fort  Le  Beauf,  Waterford, 


Mile$ 
not  in- 
cluded. 


•«*••£! 


13 
3 


18 


160 
15 
25 
20 
13 
46 
16 
24 
30 
20 


12 

7 
7 
1 

22 
7 

90 

14 


160 
175 
200 
220 
233 
279 
295 
'319 
349 
369 


381 
546 
553 
560 
561 

583 
590 

6fi0 
694 


43  12  N. 


43  28  N 
43  ION 


42  53  N 

42  18  N 
41  2  N. 


75  27  W. 


76  SI  W. 
79  15  W. 


78  59  W. 

80  8  W. 

79  5:^  W. 


\ 


I 


XIV 


. » 

r 


Lc  Beauf  Creek,  in  length, 

French  Creek.  . 

Mcadvillc, 
Fort  Franklin, 

Alleghanv  River. 

Armstrong, 
Pitlsburgli, 

.   Ohio  River. 

Beaver  Town,  Fort  M'lntosh, 

Georg'etown, 

Steubenville, 

Gharleslown, 

Warren, 

Wheeling, 

Pultney, 

Grave  Creek,        ,  i 

Middle  Island,      ' 

Marietta, 

Vienna, 

Little   Kanawa    River,    and 

Bellepre 
Big  Hockhocking  River. 
Belleville, 
Letart's  Falls, 

Point  Pleasant,  and  Great  Ka- 
nawa River, 
Galliopolis, 
Big  Sandy  River, 
French  Settlement, 
Portsmouth,  and  Great  Sciota 

River, 
Alexandria, 

Vangeville,  and  Salt  Creek, 
Manchester, 
I'imestone, 
Charlestown,  ■ 
Augusta, 
Columbia,  and  Little  Miam 

River, 
Cinci'inati, 
Great  Miami  River, 


Miles 
not  in- 
eluded. 


18 


18 


''"^^-  Jm!. :   I"-. 


ItOllff. 


57 
30 


85 
42 


694 

roo 


757 

7«r  41  24  N 


30 

10 

19 

7 

9 

10 

7 

8 

27- 

43 

9 

2 
17 

3 
40 

29 

5 

58 

20 

18 

0 
2! 
17 
14 

6 
12 

37 
f) 

24 


872 
914 


944 
954 
973 
980 
989 
999 
1006 
1014 
1041 
1084 
1093 

1095 
1112 
1115 
1155 

1184 
1189 
1247 
1267 

1285 

1306 
1323 
1337 
1343 
1355 


40  26  N 


40  5  N. 


39  25  N 


79  50  W. 


79  51  W 


39  11  N, 


80  34  W. 


8U9W. 


81  36  W. 


38  51  N.  81  57  Vf. 

38  25'N.  82  28  W. 


1392 
1398 
1422 


38  44  N 


38  36  N. 


39 
39 


6N 
6N. 


82  49  W. 


83  38  W. 


84  18  W, 
84  36  W. 


XV 


24  N.  79  50  W 


5  N.  80  34  W. 


15-N.  82  28  W. 


Lawrenceburgh, 

BijjBone  Lick  Creek, 

Port  William,    and  Kentucky 

River, 
Westport, 
Louisville,  and  Falls  of  Ohio, 
Jeffersonville, 
Clarksville, 

West  Feint,  and  Salt  River, 
Blue  River, 
Anderson's  FeriT, 
Gi-een  River, 
Henderson,  Red  Banks, 
Wabash  River, 
Shawanese  Town, 
Battery  Rocks, 
Cave, 
Smiilitown,  and  Cumberland 

River, 
Tennessee  River, 
Fort  Massack, 
Ce(!ar  Blufls,   and   Cherokee 

Ti.wn, 

Bi(r  Chain  <.f  Rocks, 
Mouth  of  Ohio, 

Up  the  Mississippi. 

Grand  Chain  of  Rocks, 

Grurd  Towers, 

Cape  Girardeau, 

Ticket  Isl.md  Passage, 

St  Geimvleve, 

Prairie  De  RocHe, 

Fort  Chaitres, 

Americ.'in  Bottom, 

Cahokia, 

St.  Louis, 

Mouth  of  Missouri  River, 

St.  Louis, 

Carondelet, 

Merrimack  Ford, 

Bi(r  Ri^er, 

Old  Mines, 

Mine  J.e  Berton, 

New  Diggings, 

Mines  of  Garberie, 


AbttfH 
not  in 
(lulled 


18 


15 

6 
15 

54 
23 
7 
6 
15 
45 

O 

14 

14 

6 

1.5 

45 

17 

7 

n 
O 

1:3 
341 


Milet. 


,  Total 
I  Mtlei. 


2 

24 

30 

48 

20 

0 

2 

25 

30 

72 

58 

23 

46 

30 

6 

7 

34 
12 
12 

16 

4 

25 


1422 
1424 
1448 

1478 
1526 
1546 

1548 
1573 
1603 
1675 
1733 
1755 
1801 
1831 
1837 
1814 

1878 
1890 
1902 

1918 
1922 
1947 


Lat. 


38  39  N. 

38  14  N. 


Long. 


85    2W. 
85  29  W. 


37  59  N.i87  13  W. 


37  17  N. 


36  59  N 


■  \: 


•r 


88  rw. 


88  45  W. 


.IS  27  N.  89  36  W. 


n    . 


xvi 


Mine  LaMotte, 
St.  Genevieve, 
Piatine  Creek, 

Kaicle,  Fort  Chartres,  and  St 
Genevieve, 

Mississippi  River, 

OES':£NDlNO. 

From  Mouth  of  Missouri  to 

St.  Louis, 
Cahokia,  . 
Fort  Chartres, 
St.  Genevieve, 
New  Bourbon    and    Kaskas- 

kias, 

Salira  Creek,  and  salt  works, 
Kaskaskias  River, 
Picket  Island  Passage, 
Muddy  River, 
Indian  Village, 
Cape  Girardeau, 
Grand  Towers, 
Grand  Chain  of  Rocks, 
Mouth  of  Ohio, 
Fort  Jefferson, 
Iron  Banks, 
Chalk  Banks 
Bayou  de  She, 
New  Madrid, 
Little  Prairie, 
Bayou  Riviere, 
Flour  Island, 

Upper  Chickasaw  Bluffs, 
Second  Chickasaw  Bluffs, 
Devil's  Race  Groun^l, 
Third  Chickasaw  Bluffs, 
Wolf  River, 
Fourth  Chickasaw  Bluffs,  and 

Fort  Pickering, 
Fort  Pike, 
Council  Island, 
St.  Francis  River, 
Settlements, 

Bayou,  and  Old  Channel, 
White  River, 
Arkansas  River, 


not in- 
dtided. 


341 
17 
54 
40 

49 


Mlet. 


501 


14 

57 
13 

3 

7 

6 
24 
16 

4 
10 
15 

6 
15 

5 
15 

5 
18 
32 
33 
27 
44 

11 

16 
10 

32 

1 
1 

3i 

32 

5 
74 

6 


22     2562 


Total 
Jiniet. 


Lat.        Long: 


1947 


1961 
1964 
2021 
2034 

2037 
2044 
2050 
2074 
2090 
2094 
2104 
2119 
2125 
2140 
2145 
2160 
2165 
2183 
2215 
2348 
2275 
2319 
2321 
2332 
2348 
2358 
2390 

2391 
2392 
2423 
2155 
2460 
2534 
2540 


39  18  N. 


37   51  N 


37  17  N. 


89  36  W, 


89  28  W. 


89  8W. 


36  59  N.  88  45  W 


36  34  N.  89  20  W 


35  36  N.  89  37  W. 


35  1  N. 


89  54  W. 


34  44  N.  90  29  W. 


34  IN, 


91  4W. 


N 


-N 


JjOt.         Long: 


39  18  N.  89  36  W, 


[37   51  N 


89  28  W^ 


37  17  N.  89  8  W 


6  59  N.  88  45  W. 


36  34  N.  89  20  W 


35  36  N.  89  37  W. 


35  1  N. 
34  44  N, 

34  IN, 


89  54  W. 

90  29  W- 

91  4W. 


3EVU 


not  in- 
cluded. 


Creek^  right  bank. 

Out'  I,  same  side. 

Grand  Lake, 

Long  Reach, 

£n(i  of  Reach* 

Wolf  Island, 

Old  Channel, 

Yazoo  River, 

W.dnut  Hills, 

Palmvra, 

Little  Yazoo  River, 

Grand  Gulph, 

Bavtui  Pierre, 

Petit  Gulph, 

Cole's  Creek, 

Natchez, 

White  Cliffs, 

Hona  C!  Uo  River, 

Loftus'    Heights,    and   Fort 

Adams, 
Line  of  Demarcation, 
Red  River, 
Bavon  Cliaffalaia, 
Bajou  Tunica, 
Tunica  Village, 
Point  Coupee  Chtirch, 
Fausse  Riviere, 
Bayou  Crocodile, 
Little  Cliffs, 

Baton  Rouge,  ' 

Bayou  Manshac, 
Bayou  Flacquemine, 
Manshac  Church, 
Bayou  Fourche,  and  Church, 
Cantrell's  Church, 
Banna  Cara  Church, 
Rouge  Chiu-ch, 
New-Orleans, 
English  Turn, 
Fort  Placquemines, 
Passes  of  Mississippi, 
Fort  Balize» 


VOL.  I. 


501 


Milet. 


501 


25 
25 
58 
18 
10 
80 
18 

7 
12 
25 
27 

1 
10 
10 
23 
34 
20 
27 

8 
S 

10 
3 

45 

10 

12 

5 

2 

3 

24 

15 

8 

10 

22 

16 

17 

18 

30 

18 


Total 
Mile*. 


Lat. 


2562 
2587 
2612 
2670 
2688 
2698 
2778 
2796 
2803 
2815 
2840 
2867 
2868 
2878 
2888 
2911 
2945 
2965 
2992 

3000 
3005 
3015 
3018 
3063 
3073 
3085 
3090 
3092 
3095 
3119 
3134 
3142 
3152 
3174 
3190 
3207 
3225 
.3255 
3273 


Long. 


« 


32  26  N 


90  52  W. 


31  32  N.  91  15  W, 


31  5  N 
31  ON. 
31     5  N 


91  22  W. 
91  37  W. 


30  29  N. 


91  10  W. 


29  57  N. 


25  3298 
24  3322 
20     3342 


)  3342 


89  55  W. 


xvm 


Havanna, 

Double  Head  Keys, 

Nuith  Bahama  Shoals, 

Off  Hatteran, 

Off- Sandy  Hook, 


Milei 

not  in- 
cluded. 

MIet. 

Total 
Mile,. 

Lat. 

501 

334^ 
320 
300 
195 
53u 
350 
30 

5187 
501 

50X 

iMUff. 


15688 


i     r 


i 

I 


'■^- 


TRAVELS. 


LETTER  I. 

^tica,  Mohawk  River,  July  15,  1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

AGREEABLY  ,o  your  request  and  my  p^. 

ZZl  'rrT™""'  '''"'='''"e.  for  your  amL 
ment,  the  few  hasty  observmions  I  have  made  on 
•ny  voyage  to  this  place ;  yet,  as  these  will  neither 
beve,j_„ewnor  interesting  to  you,  who  are  equally 
well  mfor^ed  as  to  the  state  of  improvements  thus 
tar,  1  shal    occasionally  introduce  such  little  in- 
cidents    as   may   occur  on   my  ^yage,    being 
«t.sfied  with  the  sincerity  of  your  avowal,  tha! 
any  thmg  from  me  will  be  acceptable  " 
You  desired  me  to  be  particular  in  describing 
the  several  to,vns  and  streams  I  pass  on  my  route 
the  respective  distances  between  them,  the  time' 
occupied  and  manner  of  traveUing  from  one  to 
another,  as  well  as  an  accoum  of  tlie  expenses,  risks 
and  dangers  to  be  incurred  in  an  inland  vovage 
of  the  kmd  I  am  now  performmg.   AH  these  1  shall 
endeavour  to  attend  to  in  their  proper  time  and 

\  OX  •    I  ♦  - 


I 


place  ;  and,  should  I  fail  in  affording  you  all  the 
satisfaction  or  amusement  you  may  have  anticipa- 
ted, it  will  not  be  from  want  of  any  exertion  on 
my  part. 

The  navigation  of  the  Hudson,  from  New- York 
to  Albany,  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  and 
so  generally  known,  that  you  cannot  expect  any 
thing  amusing  in  any  account  I  might  attempt 
to  give  you,  either  of  the  grandeur  o;r  elevation  of 
those  highlands  through  which  we  pass,  or  of 
the  many  flourishing  towns  and  villages  which 
adorn  the  banks  of  this  majestic  river.  I  shall, 
therefore,  proceed  to  those  particulars  which 
you  are  more  anxious  to  learn. 

The  passage  to  Albany  generally  takes  up  from 
two  to  five  days,  and  costs  from  six  to  ten  dollars 
for  each  passenger,  including  board.  The  freight 
upon  bulky  merchandise  is  forty  cents  a  hundred 
pounds  weight ;  but  heavy  articles  from  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  per  cent.  less.  From  Albany,  which 
lies  in  latitude  42.  38.  N.  and  73.  44.  W.*  to 
Schenectady,  you  have  fifteen  miles  over  a  very 
good  turnpike  road  ;  and  the  freightf  over  this 
portage  is  sixteen  cents  a  hundred  pounds  weight. 
Many  of  these  waggoners  are  great  rogues,  and, 
shou'  1  you  chance  to  have  occasion  for  their  ser- 

*  The  longitude  is  always  reckoned  from  London  in  these 
letters. 

t  Freight  and  waggon  hire  are  synonymous  terms  over 
«11  the  portages. 


xertion  on 


5  terms  over 


3 

vice,  it  will  no.  only  be  well  ,0  be  ve^  careful, 
buthkewise,  ,o  make  your  bargain  before  yoj  ' 
mploy  then.,  or,  like  me,  you  will  have  to  'ZyZ 

rattier  small  for  a  city ;  notwithstanding  which  I  ob 
-ved  that  the  inhabitants  always  mate  u^  ;    he" 
la  ter  term  when  speaking  of  the  place.  It  contains 
about  four  hundred  and  twenty  housA,  and  is  pTeT 
santly  situated  on  the  south  side  of  tie  Moitt 
nver,  about  six  miles  above  the  great  Cohoel 
From  Its  situation  at  the  commencement  of  ^e. 
tensive  inland  navigation,  whose  shores  are  daiW 
ncreasnig  i„  wealth  and  population,  tlxcre  cai>  te 
no  doubt  that,  at  a  period  not  very  far  distant 
Schenectady  will  rank  as  one  of  the  first  interior 
cities  of  the  United  States. 

The  freight  from  Schenectady  to  Utica    a  di, 
tance  of  one  hundred  and  four  miles  b^waLL" 
scventy.five  cents  a  hundmd  weight.     The  car 
nage  by  land  is  the  same.     This  is. owing  totte 
great  number  of  waggons,  loaded  withproducc 
vhic    enter  the  cities  of  Albany  and  ScheLctdy,- 
"here,  having  discharged  their  loads,  rather  tli 
-mrn  empty  and  earn  nothing,  the;  are  g  ad" 
.ake  a  fa-igh,  at  the  rate  of  water-cairiage. 

*cam,  falls  mto  the  Mohawk  from  the   south 
SK.e   a,   a  pi,ee  called  the    Mohawk    Flats    a 
^o.t    Hunter,   about    twenty.five    miles      bovt 
Schenectady.     Canada  Creek    is   a   eon.ideie 


lit  il 


■f  i 


stream  of  water,  which  takes  its  rise  ia  a  hilly, 
broken  country,  near  the  headwaters  of  Black 
River :  it  empties  itself  into  the  Mohawk  on  the 
north  side,  at  a  place  called  the.  Herkimer  Flats. 
The  Tutconnodach,  Coroje,  and  Lower  Canada 
Creeks  on  the  north  side,  and  the  Canojoharie, 
Otsquach,  Saguett  and  Oriskany  Creeks  on  the 
south  side,  arc  all  small  and  ti  Ifliug-  stremus,  which 
afford  but  a  partial  supply  to  the  main  river.  You 
will  please  to  observe,  as  a  general  rule  in  future, 
that,  in  all  my  references  with  respect  to  the  rivers 
and  water-courses,  I  shall  use  the  terms  right  and 
tej},  as  the  frequent  windings  and  sudden  turns  of 
the  rivers  render  it  almost  impossible  to  give  the 
true  bearings  without  a  constant  reference  to  the 
compass. 

I  have  noticed  but  three  different  kinds  of  boats 
used  in  navigating  this  river.  Those  called  Sche- 
nectady boats  are  generally  preferred;  arid,  will 
carry  about  ten  tons  burthen  when  the  river  is 
high ;  but  when  it  is  low,  as  at  this  time,  they 
will  not  take  more  than  from  three  to  four ; 
they  generally  advance  against  the  stream  at 
the  rate  of  from  eighteen  to  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  miles  a  day.  These  boats  are  built  very 
much  after  the  model  of  our  Long  Island  round- 
-bottoui  skiffs,  but  proportionably  larger,  being 
from  forty  to  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  steered  by  a 
large  swing  oar  of  the  same  length.  They  have, 
likewise,  a  moveable  mast  in  the  middle.     When 


the  wind  serves,  they  set  a  square-sail  and  top-sail, 
which,  at  a  few  miles  distance,  give  them  all  the 
appearance  of  small  square-rigged  vessels  coming 
down  before  the  wind.  Our  galley,  which,  I  am 
just  now  informed,  is  called  the  "  Mohawk  Regu- 
"  lator,"  has  gone  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour 
against  the  stream;  and,  during  this  time,  be- 
lieve me,  nothing  can  be  more  charming  than 
sailing  on  the  Mohawk. 

It  is  not  often,  however,  that  a  fair  wind  will  serve 
for  more  than  three  or  four  miles  together,  as  the 
irregular  course  of  the  river  renders  its  aid  very  pre- 
carious ;  their  chief  dependence,  therefore,  is  upon 
their  pike  poles.  These  are  generally  from  eighteen 
to  twenty-two  feet  in  length,  having  a  sharp  pointed 
iron,    with    a   socket    weighing   ten    or  twelve 
pounds  affixed  to  the  lower  end ;  the  upper  has  a 
large  knob,  called  a  button,  mounted  upon  it,  so 
that  the  poleman  may  press  upon  it  with  his  whole 
weight   without  endangering   his   person.     This 
manner  of  impelling  the  boat  forward  is  extremely 
laborious,  and  none  but  those  who  have  been  fJr 
some  time  accustomed  to  it,  can  manage  these 
poles  with  any  kind  of  advantage.  Within  the  boat 
on  each  side  is  fixed  a  plank  running  fore  and 
aft,  with  a  number  of  cross  elects  nailed  upon  it, 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  the  polemen  a  sure  footing 
in  hard  poling.   The  men,  after  setting  their  poles 
against  a  rock,  bank  or  bottom  of  the  river,  de- 


i 


) 


I    \i 


dining  their  heads  veiy  low,  place  tlie  upper  cndor 
button  against  the  back  part  of  their  right  or  left 
shoulders,  (according  to  the  side  on  which  they  may 
be  poling,)  then  fallmg  down  on  their  hands  and 
toes,  creep  the  whole  length  of  the  gang-boaids, 
and  send  the  boat  forward  with  considerable  speed. 
The  first  sight  of  four  men  on  each  side  of  a  boat, 
creeping  along  on  their  hands  and  toes,  apparently 
transfixed  by  a  huge  pole,  is  no  small  curiosity ; 
nor  was  it,   until   I   had   observed   their  perse- 
verance for  two  or  three  hundred  yards,  that  I 
became   satisfied   they   were   not   playing   some 
pranks.      From    the    general    practice    of    this 
method,    as  likewise  from    my   own  trials    and 
observation,^  I  am  convinced  that  they  have  fallen 
upon  the  most  powerful  way  possible  to  exert  their 
bodily  strength  for  the  purpose  requked.     The 
position,  however,  was  so  extremely  awkward  to 
me,  that  I  doubt  whether  the  description  I  have 
attempted  will  give  you  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
procedure.     I  have  met  with  another  kind  of  boat 
on  this  river,  which  is  called  a  dorm,  or  dorem ; 
how  it  is  spelt,  I  know  not.      The  only  difference 
I  could  observe  in  this  from  tlie  former  one  is, 
that  it  is  built  sharp  at  both  ends,  and,  generally, 
much  larger  and  stouter.  They  have  likewise  flats,' 
similar  to  those  you  have  seen  on  the  Susque- 
hanna, but  much  lighter  built,  and  longer.     On 
all  these  they  occasionally  carry  the  sails  before 
mentioned. 


r 

i 


■■■^a... 


f* 


■InM 


)per  cndor 
ght  or  left 
1  they  may- 
hands  and 
ng-boai'ds, 
ble  speed. 

of  a  boat, 
:\pparently 
curiosity ; 
;ir  perse- 
is,  that  I 
ng   some 

of  this 
rials  and 
ave  fallen 
xert  their 
Id.  The 
kward  to 
tn  I  have 
5a  of  the 
I  of  boat 

dorem ; 
ifference 
r  one  is, 
enerally, 
ise  flats, 
Susque- 
2r.  On 
J  before 


V 


\  ^ 


I    ■ 

I  • 
I 


<\: 


.J 


-m^yw.  .»l.,.^.,p^ip 


/ 


of 


it 
vvi 


m\ 


i 


a 


3 
■a 


■i 


.\ 


The  Mohawk  is  by  no  means  dangerotis  to  as. 
cend,  on  account  of  the  slowness  of  the  boat's  pro. 
gress;  but,  as  it  is  full  of  rocks,  stones  and  shal- 
lows, there  is  some  risk  in  descending  it  of  sta. 
vmg  the  boat;  and,  at  this  season,  is  so  low  as  to 
r^quire^t  to  be  dragged  by  hand  over  many  pla. 
ces.      The  channel  in  some  instances  is  not  more 
than  eight  feet  in  width,  which  will  barely  permit 
a  boat  to  pass  by  rubbing  on  both  sides.    This  is 
sometimes  caused  by  natural  or  accidental  obstruc' 
tioas  of  rocks  in.  the  channel ;  but  oftener  by  arti 
ficial  means.     This,   which  at  first  view  would 
appear  to  be  an  inconvenience,  is  p,x)duced  by 
two  lines  or  ndges  of  stone,  generally  constructed 
on  sandy,  gravelly,  or  stony  shallows,  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  an  acute  angle  were  they  to 
meet  the  extremities  of  which  widen  as  they  extend 
up  the  river ;  whUst  at  the  lower  end  there  is  just 
space  enough  left  to  admit  the  passage  of  a  boat. 
The  water  being  thus  collected  at  the  widest  part 
of  these  ndges,  and  continually  pent  up  wifhin 
narrower  limits  as  it  descends,  causes  a  rise  at  the 
passage;  so  that  where  the  depth  was  no  more 
than  ei^t   inches  before,  a  contrivance  of  this 
kmd   will   raise  it  to  twelve;   and,   strange   as 
it   may    appear,    a   boat  drawing   fifteen   inches 
will  pass  through  it  with  safety  and  eas..    The 
cause   IS   simply  this;    the   boat,    being  some- 
ivhat  below  the  passage,  is  brought  forward  with 


i 


d 


i  !: 


considerable  velocity,  and  the  moment  it  dashes 
into  tjie  passage,  its  resistance  to  the  current  is 
such  as  to  cause  a  swell  of  four  or  five  inches 
more,  which  affords  it  an  easy  passage  over  the 
$hoal. 

The  Moha'A^  may  be  considered  as  being 
generally  about  one  hundred  yards  in  width ;  its 
banks  are  extremely  fertile,  and  the  very  appear- 
ance of  the  b^ns  would  satisfy  a  traveller  that  he 
v/as  passing  through  a  rich  and  well  cultivated 
country.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  of  German 
descent,  and  still,  in  a  great  measure,  retain 
their  national  prejudices,  and  consider  all  who 
do  not  speak  their  own  language  either  as  Yan- 
kees or  Iris^ers.  The  Germans  of  Pennsylvania 
generally  speak  a  most  corrupt  dialect  of  the  Ger- 
man language ;  yet,  when  compared  with  that  in 
use  on  the  Mohawk,  it  may  justly  be  styled  attic 
**  elegance."  The  Saxons  are  allowed  to  speak 
the  purest  of  any  of  the  Germans,  and  when  I 
have  been  complimented  as  speaking  German 
like  a  Saxon,  which  has  frequendy  been  the  case, 
I  have  felt  not  a  little  flattered  ;  judge,  then,  how  I 
have  been  mortified  to  be  told  by  ajair  Mohawk, 
that  "  I  was  an  outlandish  man,  or  an  Irisher,  and 
*'did  not  understand  their  language,  although  I 
♦'  had  made  out  to  learn  a  few  words." 

The  German  and  Herkimer  Flats  are  very  fine 
tracts  of  bottom  land,  and  in  the  highest  state  of 


it  dashes 
current  is 
ive  inches 
;  over  the 

as  being 
vidth;  its 
y  appear- 
er  that  he 
cuhivated 
f  German 
re,   retain 

all  who 
r  as  Yan- 
msylvania 
ftheGer- 
th  that  in 
led     attic 

to  speak 
d  when  I 

German 

the  case, 
sp,  how  I 
Mohawk, 
isher^  and 
Ithough  I 

very  fine 
it  state  of 


cultivation  ;  and,  from  the  great  depth  of  the  soil 
as  well  as  from  logs  and  trees  being  frequentlv 
found  m  diggmg  for  wells,  they  wen.,  in  all  pro- 
babihty  at  some  remote  period,  the  bottoms  of 
lakes.     Canojoharie  and  Little  Falls  are  the  only 
two   towns  that  lie  immediatelv   upon  the  river 
throughout  the  whole  distance  from  Schenectady 
o  Utica.     The  former  is  a  scattered  village  on  the 
left  bank,  about  forty-five  miles  from  Schenectady  • 
the  latter  about  thirteen  miles  farther  up,  situated 
on  the  right  bank,  in  a  rocky  and  barren  country, 
of  httle  value  except  for  milLseats.     It  consists 
at  present  of  thirty  houses,  and  must,  in  time  be 
come  a  very  considerable  manufacturing   place 
from  the  ease  and  facility  with  which  mills  may 
be  erected.  ^ 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  arriving  at  the 
Falls  are  two  places  called  the  Devil's  Hole  and 
Devil  s  Oven ;  and,  from  the  description  I  had  re 
ceived,  I  expected  to  find  a  cavern  large  enough,  at 
lea^t,  to  contain  a  church-when,  lo!  on  examina- 
tion, they  appeared  to  be  only  small  accidental  ex 
cavations  in  the  side  of  a  rocky  mountain,  about  the 
size^^f  a  common  oven,  with  a  very  large  mouth, 
trom.the  great  number  of  small  excavations  that 
are  continually  forming,   it  is  evident  that  they 
have  been  produced  in  consequence  of  a  pebble 
cliHr'^r'"'?  ^^^^dentally  lodged  in  a  small 
cavity  6f  the  rocks,  where,  the  force  of  the  ^^ter 

VOL.   I. 


^1 


\  ». 


-*«\ 


10 


i  I'  I 


,-i 


giving  it  a  rotatory  motion,  the  cavity  has 
grown  with  everj'  overflowing  of  the  river,  which, 
when  high,  rushes  directly  into  these  holes. 
On  the  approach  to  the  Falls  the  scenery  of  the 
country  experiences  a  sudden  and  picturesque 
change ;  the  river  becomes  contracted  to  about 
one- third  its  usiijj  breadth ;  on  each  side  the 
mountains  rise  to  a  towering  height,  the  sides  of 
which,  although  inaccessible,  are  covered  with 
lofty  trees,  which  fasten  their  roots  in  the  fissures 
and  crevices  of  the  rocks,  and  firmly  maintain  their 
station  in  spite  of  storms  and  tempests  ;  while,  as 
vou  advance,  the  river  seems  lost  in  a  wilderness 
of  rocks  and  precipices.  In  ascending  these  Falls 
you  pass  through  eight  locks  into  the  canal,  where 
each  ton  of  merchandise  pays  a  toll  of  two  dollars 
and  twenty-five  cents,  besides  a  toll  of  from  one 
dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  two  dollars  and  sixty-two 
and  a  half  cents  on  each  boat.  This  expense  is 
paid  by  the  captain  of  the  boat.  It  is,  however, 
certainly  too  high,  and  is  generally  complained  of ; 
not  that  the  proprietors  receive  too  great  profits 
from  these  works,  which,  on  the  contrary,  are  at 
present  rather  a  sinking  fund,  and  must  continue 
so  until  the  number  of  boats  employed  on  this 
river  is  increased  in  a  tenfold  degree.  This  ought 
to  be  an  object  of  the  first  importance  with  the 
comptiny,  for  the  heavy  charges  paid  by  the  few 
that  navigate  these  waters,  tend  to  discourage 
others  from    building  boats.     The   farmers   still 


li 


continue  to  transport  their  produce  by  land  in  pre- 
ference   to  water,  as  each  has  his  team,  which 
will  carry  one  hundred  bushels.     They  generally 
go  to  town  once  or  twice  a  year,  to  dispose  of 
their  crops,  sec  their  friends,  and  look  for  great 
bargains  at  auctions ;  and,  when  ready  to  return, 
can  take  back  a  load  as  cheap  as  the  boatman  who 
passes   the   locks.     Besides,  they  have  not  only 
saved  in  this  respect,  but  also  a  charge  of  one  or 
two  shillmgs  a  bushel  on  all  they  bring ;  for  it  is 
generally  known  that  a  farmer  of  this  description, 
by  takinr  J^is  provisions  with  him,  will  not  spefld 
more  than  one  or  two  dollars  during  tlie  trip. 
The  great  object  of  the  company,  therefore,  should 
be  to  encourage  the  use  of  boats,  and  endeavour 
to  increase  theii-  number;  and,  by  that  means, 
divert  the  land  carriage  to  the  river.     This  nfiver 
can  be  effected  while  die  present  mode  is  persisted 
in ;  and,  were  they  to  lower  the  toll  fifty  per  cent. 
I  should  still  say  it  was  too  high.     In  my  opinion, 
they  seem  rather  to  have  calculated  upon  high  tolls 
and  frw  boats ;  experience,  however,  will  soon 
teach  them  to  consider  the  subject  in  a  different 
light. 

The  canal,  which  is  four  or  five  miles  long,  is 
a  beautiful  piece  of  water,  passing  through  the 
flats  of  the  town  of  Herkimer.  It  is  a  valuable 
acquisition  to  those  through  whose  lands  it  flows ; 
and,  when  once  planted  with  handsome  trees, 
will  be  one  of  the  pleasantest  situations  in  this 


V, 


IS 

country.     On  the  left  it  is  joined  by  Oriskany 
Creek,  a  small  stream  which  passes  through  a 
large  and  extensive  flat  of  the  same  name,  but 
mostly  unimproved.     It  was  at  this  spot  the  fa- 
mous  battle  was  fought  by  General  Herkimer  with 
the  Indians,  in  which  he  lost  his  life.     The  after- 
noon of  my  arrival  at  Utica,  we  encountered  a  vio- 
lent thunder  squall,  which  I  should  not  have  no- 
ticed to  you  had  not  a  large  tree,  immediately  op- 
posite  to  us,  been  struck  with  lightning  and  fallen 
inlo   the    river;    so  that    although   drowning   is 
scarcely  possible  on  the  Mohawk,  yet  there  is  some 
risk  of  being  dashed  to  pieces  by  the  falling  of 
trees  which  overhang  its  banks. 

Utica,  on  the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler,  is  a  flou- 
rishing vilUge,  handsomely  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Mohawk;  it  contains,  at  present, 
about  one  hundred  and  sixty  houses,  the  greatest 
part  of  which  are  painted  white,  and  give  it  a 
neat  and  lively  appearance.  Foreign  goods  are 
nearly  as  cheap  here  as  in  New- York,  which,  I 
presume,  is  owing  to  the  merchants'  underselling 
each  other  ;  for  this,  like  all  other  country  towns  is 
overstocked  with  shop-keepers.  Most  of  the 
goods  intended  for  the  salt-works  are  loaded  here 
in  waggons,  and  sent  on  over  land,  a  distance  (rf 
fifty  miles.  The  carriage  over  this  portage  is 
fifty  cents  a  hundred  weight. 

Whitestown  is  also  a  thriving  little  village,  four 
Tniles  above  Utica  ;  but,  as  it  stands  about  half  a 


IS 

mile  back  from  the  shore,  nothing  of  it  is  seen  in 

the  passage  up  the  riv£r.     Deerfield  lies  on  the 

right  bank  of  the  Mohawk  immediately  opposite 

to  Utica,  and  is  connected  with  it  by  a  good 

wooden  bridge.     It  is  but  an  inconsiderable  vi|. 

lage,  of  eight  or  ten  houses,  chiefly  inhabited  by 

very  poor  people  ;  nor  is  it  likely  ever  to  rise  to 

any  degree  of  respectability,  as  the  ground   on 

which  it  is  situated  is  subject  to  be  overflowed 

whenever  there  is  any  considerable  rise  of  the 

river. 

The  Mohawk  affbrds  the  fewest   fish  of  any 
stream  I  have  ever  yet  met  with.     Angling,  you 
know,  is  my  favourite  sport ;  and,  as  I  had  promised 
myself  much  gratifliftion  from  this  amusement,  I 
spared  nothing  that  could  render  my  fishing  Jp, 
paratus  complete  ;  judge  then  of  my  patience  and 
disappointment,  when,  after  nine  day's  toiling,  day 
and  night,  I  at  last  caught  a  poor  cat  fish  not 
larger  than  a  herring!!     I  hope,  however,  in  a  few 
days,  to  be  amply  compensated  for  my  disappoint- 
ment  here,  as  we  shall  then  be  at  the  head  of  the 
Mohawk,  and  from  thence  descend  with  the  waters 
flowing  into  Lake  Ontario,  which  our  captain  in- 
forms  me  abounds  with  salmon  and  other  deli- 
cious fish ;  yet,  even  here,  I  perceive,  another  diffi- 
culty presents  itself,  which  is,  that  nature  has  been 
so  bountiful  to  the  salmon  of  this  country,  in  fur- 
nishing them  with  quantities  of  delicious  food,  as 
to  make  them  reject  the    very  best  tid-bit  vou 


i 


1 


14 

can  affix  to  your  hcok ;  so  that,  unless  you  arc 
expert  enough  to  strike  them  with  a  spear,  as  is 
the  custom,  you  are  likely  to  go  without.  I  really 
must  confess  that  my  feelings  seem  rather  to  revolt 
at  the  barbarous  and  unnatural  idea  of  miu^dering 
fish  with  a  large  piece  of  iron^  weighing  tlwee  or 
four  pounds,  while,  at  the  same  time,  a  little  bit 
of  crooked  steel,  covered  with  a  fly  or  worm,  and 
suspended  to  a  line,  would  afford  me,  for  hours, 
what  I  should  call  rational  amusement.  Such  is  the 
force  of  habit  and  prejudice  !  The  manly  attitude 
oi  the  Indian,  standing  erect  in  his  canoe  as  he 
skims  the  transparent  surface  of  the  lake,  grasping 
his  iron  spear  with  his  right  hand,  warns  the 
quick-eyed  salmon  of  his  ho^e  approach — while 
we,  more  humane  and  refined,  conceal  ourselves 
under  the  thick  foliage  of  the  shady  banks,  and, 
in  the  guise  of  friendship,  beguile  the  unwary 
tribe  to  the  deceitful  hook  ! 


!  i     } 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


iU 


IS 


LETTER  II. 


Lake  Ontario,  Oswego,  July  24,  1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

MY  last,  I  think,  left  me  moralizing  in  conse- 
quence of  my  disappointments  in  fishing  on  the 
Mohawk  :  I  shall  not  say  another  word  upon  that 
subject,  for,  to  be  candid,  the  first  "  glomus  nibble'' 
1  afterward  had,  banished  all  unpleasant  ideas  re- 
"pecting  the  past. 

At  Utica  I  made  some  little  improvements  in 
our  boat,  which  consisted  of  an  a^vning  sufficiently 
large  to  secure  us  pretty  comfortably  from  the 
rain  and  sun.  The  passage  from  Utica  to  this 
place,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fourteen 
miles,  occupied  nine  days,  two  of  which,  however, 
were  spent  at  Three  River  Point  in  waiting  for 
me,  as  I  had  resolved  not  to  miss  the  opportunity 
of  visiting  the  famous  salt-works  of  Onondago. 
The  freight  to  this  place  is  at  the  rate  of  one 
dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per  hundred.  The 
passage  money,  if  any  is  charged,  is  about  two 
dollars  for  a  hundred  miles,  finding  your  own  pro- 
visions;  but,  if  you  furnish  a  good  table,  no  pas- 


16 


sage  money  will  be  received;  and  these  open- 
hearted  fellows  always  seem  much  pleased  to  have 
gentlemen  for  passengers. 

Rome,  which  lies  in  latitude  43.  12.  N.  knd 
75,  27.  W.  is  situated  near  the  head  of  the  Mo- 
hawk, sixteen  miles  above  Utica.  The  entrance 
into  this  village  is  through  a  handsome  canal 
about  a  mile  in  length.  It  is  here  that  the  Mo- 
hawk is  made  to  contribute  a  part  of  its  stream 
toward  filling  Wood  Creek,  which,  of  itself,  is  so 
low  in  dry  seasons  as  to  be  totally  insufficient  to 
float  a  boat  without  the  aid  of  the  Mohawk. 
Rome,  fom.orly  known  as  Fort  Stanwix,  is  de- 
lightfully situated  in  an  elevated  and  level  country, 
commanding  an  extensive  view  for  about  ten  miles 
around.  I'his  village  consists  at  present  of  about 
eighty  houses ;  but  it  seems  quite  destitute  of  every 
kind  of  trade,  and  rather  upon  the  decline.  The  only 
spirit  which  I  perceived  stirring  among  tiie^  was 
that  of  money  digging ;  and  the  old  fort  betrayed 
evident  signs  of  the  prevalence  of  this  mania,  as  it 
had  literally  been  turned  inside  out  for  the  purpose 
of  discovering  concealtd  treasure. 

In  proceeding  from  the  Mohawk  through  the 
canal  into  Wood  Creek,  and  descending  the  same, 
you  pass  through  another  range  of  locks,  five  in 
number.  The  toll  here  is  still  higher  than  the 
first,  being  three  dollars  per  ton  for  goods,  and 
from  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  three  dollars  and 
1 


i  i  T 


17  ^ 

fifty  cents  extra  upon  each  boat.  This  charge  is 
usually  paid  by  the  boatman  who  takes  the  freight  • 
but  I  am  informed  that  it  is  necessary  to  come  to 
an  understanding  on  this  point  at  the  time  of 
making  the  contract,  as  this  expense  is  sometimes 
thrown  upon  the  shipper. 

Wood  Creek  is  a  narrow,  crooked  and  sluggish 
stream,  about  twenty.four  miles  in  length,  from  its 
head  at  Rome  to  its  junction  with  the  Onondaga 
River,  and  about  twelve  yards  wide  after  passing 
through  the   locks.      It   winds    through   a   low 
swampy  tract  of  country  from  eight  to  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  four  or  five  in  breadth.     Although 
this  stream  is  celebrated  for  the  size,  activity  and 
numbers  of  its  moschetoes,  as  well  as  the  stag, 
nancy  of  its  waters,  yet  I  neither  experienced  the 
annoyance  of  the  one,  nor  the  inconvenience  of  the 
other,  although  I  passed  it  in  the  month  of  July 
when  both  these  evils  are  said  to  be  intolerable' 
Just  after  passing  the  storehouse,  which  is  situa- 
ted  below  the  last  lock,  a  considerably  rapid  stream 
called  Canada  Creek,  unites  with  Wood  Creek 
from  the  right.     This  is  nearly  as  large  as  the 
former,  but  not  navigable.     Immediately  opposite 
their  junction  are  the  remains  of  Fort  Rickey,  a 
fortress  of  some  consequence  during  the  old  In 
dian  wars ;  but  at  present  employed  to  a  better 
purpose,    being   covered   with   a   good  orchard. 
About  a  mile  farther  we  passed  the  site  of  another 

VOL.   I. 


'  N  ^ 


It 


old  fort  called  Fort  Bull;    this  is  ott  the  right 
bank  of  the  creek.  The  navigation  of  Wood  Creek 
is  not  attended  with  any  hazard  of  drowning,  oreven 
of  staving  a  boat  to  pieces ;  but  the  sudden  turns  of 
the  stream  overhung  with  the  trunks  and  branches 
of  trees,  are  not  without  their  dangers,  as  I  ex- 
perienced.    The  boat  being  under  considerable 
way,  at  a  sudden  bend  of  the  river,  we  unexpect- 
edly discovered  a  tree,  which  had  been  overturned 
by  some  late  storm,  stretched  across  the  stream, 
and  supported  by  its  branches  in  such  a  manner 
as  not  to  touch  the  water.     Our   captain    imme- 
diately perceiving  that  it  would  be  impossible  to 
stop  the  boat  in  so  short  a  distance,  directed  every 
one  to  take  care  of  himself,  and   ran   the  boat 
under  a  part  of  the  tree  of  sufficient  height  to  ad- 
mit it ;  but,  as  it  was  much  lumbered  up  a- mid- 
ships, several  of  the  articles  were  swept  overboard. 
Amongst   these   were    my   travelling  trunk  and 
portable  desk,  containing  my  money,  papers  and 
apparel.     The  desk  floated  along  side,  but   the 
trunk,  being  very  heavy,  sunk  to  the  level  of  the 
water  and  stopped  against  some  of  the  branches. 
As  it  required  some  time,  however,  to  stop  the 
boat  and  go  up  the  stream,  the  trunk,  on  being 
taken  up,  was  full  of  water,  to  the  no  little  injury 
of  my  papers  and  clothing.     The  most  laughable 
circumstance  attending  this  accident  was,  that  on 
missing  my  companion,  and  looking  round  for 
him,  I  discovered  him  in  the  top  of  the  tree  whicli 


10 

we  had  passed  uhder,  whither  he  had  jumped  to 
avoid  being  crushed,  as  he  had  not  time  to  get 
aft  where  the  boat  was  less  lumbered 

There  is  great  plenty  and  a  variety  of  fine  fish 
m  this  stream ;  and,  as  we  are  now  provided  with 
the  necessary  cooking  apparatus,  I  find,  for  the 
first  time,  my  favourite  amusement  likely  to  be 
attended  with  profit.     We  have  already  seen  se- 
veral  salmon  Jumping,  but  have  not  been  able  to 
catch  any,  except  with  a  silver  hook;  nor  should 
we,  probably,  have  so  soon  been  successful  in  this 
way  had  we  not  foitunately  fallen  in  with  a  party 
of  Oneida  Indians,  who  were  returning  from  fish- 
ing,  and  had  two  canoes  loaded  Avith  fine  salmon. 
Several  of  them  weighed  thirty  pounds  each.  We 
purchased  two   of  the  largest  for  one  dollar  and 
tv  enty-five  cents. 

We  stopped  the  same  evening  at  a  settlement  a 
little  distance  above  the  mouth  of  Wood  Creek,  in 
order  to  obtain  a  fresh  supply  of  milk  for  our  c'of< 
fee  and  chocolate.     The  sun  had  just  set  as  we 
were  ascending  the  bank,  when  we  heard  the  ciy 
of  a  hog  in  distress,  and,  upon  approaching  the 
house,  fotlnd  it  was  occasioned  by  a  bear,    who 
had  come  upon  much  the  same  errand  with  our- 
selves, namely,  to  get  something  to  eat;  but,  as 
he  found  no  one  with  whom  to  make  a  bargain, 
he  very  deliberately  seized  a  small  hog  of  about 
three  hundred  pounds  weight,  and   marched  off 


- 1« 


1 


20 


m 

n 


into  the  woods.  By  the  time  we  came  to  the 
house  we  discovered  an  old  woman,  with  a  frying, 
pan  in  one  hand,  and  a  ladle  in  the  other,  running 
after  the  robber;  but  she  soon  returned,  and 
informed  us  tliat  "this  was  the  second  time 
"  the  darnation  devil  had  visited  them  within  a 
"  week." 

Wood  Creek  is  joined  on  the  right  by  Fish 
Creek,  which,  with  more  propriety,  might  be  de- 
nominated a  river,  as  it  is  at  least  five  times  as 
large  as  Wood  Creek,  but  navigable  for  ten  miles 
only.  This  stream  is  much  resorted  to  by  the 
Oneida  Indians,  on  account  of  the  great  quantities 
of  salmon  and  other  fish  which  it  affords;  as, 
likewise,  from  its  being  favoured  with  numerous 
springs  of  excellent  water,  which,  in  this  country, 
is  considered  as  a  very  great  luxury. 

About  a  mile  and  u  half  below  the  mouth  of 
Fish  Creek,  the  collected  waters  of  these  two 
streams  are  discharged  into  the  Oneida  Lake, 
where  are  still  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  Fort 
Royal,  formerly  a  post  of  considerable  importance 
in  checking  the  roving  parties  of  Indians  on  this 
part  of  the  frontier. 

Oneida  Lake  is  a  most  charming  and  beputiful 
sheet  of  water,  about  thirty  miles  in  length,  and 
five  in  breadth,  and,  I  believe,  affords  the  best 
and  greatest  variety  of  fish  of  any  water  in  the 
western  part  of  this  state.  I  have  seen  salmon, 
pike  and  cat  fish  taken  in  this  lake  from  five  to 


31  ii. 


21  ' 

thirty.five  pounds  weight,  and  chub,  Oswego  bass 
and  white  bass  from  two  to  five  pounds  ;  besides 
a  great  variety  of  smaUer  and  less  esteemed  fish. 
Eels  are  found  here  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and 
are  the  finest  and  largest  that  ever  I  saw.     They 
have  an  invention  for  taking  them  similar  to  our 
eel-pots,  but  made  very  large,  and  requiring  no 
bait.     These  are  always  set  in  a  strong  current 
either  at  the  inlet  or  outlet  of  a  lake,  or  on  some 
swift  part  of  the  stream  upon  the  rivers.     Two 
ridges  of  stones  are  piled  up  in  the  manner  before 
described  on  the  Mohawk  river,  at  the  lower  end 
of  which  the  pot  or  basket  is  set.     I  was  present 
when  one  of  the  baskets,  which  had  been  set  over 
night,  was  taken  up ;  it  filled  two  barrels,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  eels  weighed  from  two  to  three 
pounds   each.      I  have  been  always   prejudiced 
against  eating  eels  on  account  of  a  rancid  taste 
which  I  perceived  in  them;  but,  being  prevailed 
upon  to  taste  of  these,  I  must  declare  that  I  never 
before  tasted  any  fish  so  delicious,  without  except- 
ing  even  the  salmon.  A  family  who  live  at  the  outlet 
of  this  lake,  depend  almost  entirely  upon  this  eel- 
fishery  for  their  support ;  they  salt  down  about 
forty  barrels  a  year,  and  find  a  ready  sale  for  them 
at  ten  dollars  a  barrel. 

The  Oneida  Indians,  from  whom  this  lake  de- 
rives its  name,  are  generally  settled  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood.  We  had,  occasionally,  met  with  one 
or  two  families  of  them  previously  to  our  arrival 


«■ 


22 

at  the  l:*k€,  buthere  irfcftiund  a  collection  of  about 
forty,  who  were  amusing  theniselves  with  shooting 
arrows,  pitcliing  quoits,  and  throwing  large  stones. 
W©  made  a  stop  here  for  the  night,  and  found 
therti  all  remarkably  civil  and  well  disposed. 

There  is  a  tolerably  good  tavern  kept  at  this 
place  by  a  Mrs.  J—-.,  and  her  sister,  a  young  wo- 
man,  who;  you  may  be  assured,  display  no  ordi- 
nary degree  of  courage  in  dealing  out  whiskey  to 
thirty  or  forty  Indians,  who  generally  rendezvous 
at  this  place,  especially  as  there  is  no  other  white 
settler  within  sight  or  call,  should  any  accident 
render  immediate  assistance  necessary.     I  made  a 
small  excursion  along  the  border  of  this  lake,  and, 
although  the  shore  was  low,  yet  I  found  a  firm, 
dry,  white  sandy  beach  to  walk  upon;  some  other 
parts  of  it,  however,  I  was  informed,  were  low  and 
swampy.     I  was  much  amused  in  the  evening  by 
a  singular  illumination  upon  the  lake,  which  I  was 
at  first  wholly  unable  to  account  for.     The  water 
at  this  part  of  the  lake,  it  seems,  is  very  shallow 
for  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  being 
perfectly  transparent,  and  the  bottom  a  white  sand, 
the  smallest  object  may  be  readily  distinguished. 
The  Indians  have  a  meihod  of  taking  salmon  and 
other  fish  by  rfieans  of  an  iron  frame  fixed  in  the 
bow  of  the  canoe,  projecting  forward  three  or  four 
feet,  and  ( Ifvated  about  five  ;  upon  this  they  kin- 
dle a  bright  fire  of  pine  knots,  and  while  one  per- 
son sits  in  the  stern  with  a  paddle  to  impel  the 


w 


23 

boat  forward,  another  stands  in  the  bow  with  a 
sharp  spear  ready  to  strike  the  fish  who  play  about 
the  light.  Ten  or  twelve  of  these  canoes  moving 
about  irregulaily  on  the  lake,  on  a  fine  calm 
evening,  with  the  reflection  of  their  lights,  like  so 
many  lines  of  fire,  extending  from  each  object  to 
a  centre  on  which  you  stand,  afford  a  most  plea- 
smg  prospect,  and  far  exceed,  in  my  opinion,  the 
most  brilliant  display  of  artificial  fireworks. 

In  crossing  this  lake  we  were  fortunate  enough 
to  be  favoured  with  a  fair  wind,  and  five  hours' 
saihng  brought  us  to  the  outlet,  or  head  of  Onon, 
daga  River.     On  our  passage  we  had  a  tolerably 
fair  view  of  Rotterdam,  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  lake,  about  six  miles  above  the  oudet    The 
country,  generally,  around  the  lake,  and  particu- 
larly  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rotterdam,  has  the 
character  of  being  unheahhy,  although  the  situa- 
tion of  the  town  appeared  to  me  to  be  sufficiently 
elevated.     Should  the  vicinity  of  these  low  and 
swampy  grounds  be  the  only  cause  of  this  un 
healthyness,  I  am  of  opinion  that  a  few  hundred 
dollars  expended,  in  opening  the  channel  and  re. 
movmg  the  bar  at  the  head  of  the  outlet,  would 
lower  the  lake  so  far  as  to  drain  off  the  stagnant 
waters,  and  thus  remove  the  cause.     I  had  an  op 
portunity  of  examining  the  whole  length  of  the 
bar  by  wading  across  it,  and  found  it  composed  of 
loose  stones  and  gravel,  with  no  more  than  eighteen 
mches  of  water.     Unless,  therefore,  there  should    ' 


(. 


24 

prove  to  be  a  bed  of  rocks  to  impede  the  under- 
taking, I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  twenty  men, 
with  the  necessary  implements,  might  easily  ac- 
complish  it  in  the  course  of  a  month. 

As  the   wmd  would  not  permit   us  to  stop 
at  Rotterdam,  I  can  only  speak  of  it  from  informa- 
tion.    It  is  said  to  contain  about  thirty  houses, 
but  mostly  deserted,  on  account  of  what  they  call 
the  lake  fever,  which,  I  am  told,  makes  its  appear- 
ance annually.     There  is  an  excellent  set  of  mills 
built  upon  a  stream  called  Bruce's  Creek,  which 
passes  just  below  the  town;   and,   although  the 
country  is  extremely  fertile,  yet,  for  want  of  set- 
tlers to  raise  grain,  they  have  but  little  employment. 
About  four, miles  from  the  outlet  w^e  passed  two 
islands  on  our  left,  sufficiently  high  for  cuhivation, 
and  containing  about  one  hundred  acres,  but  des- 
titute of  inhabitants.     We  also  passed  a  little  spot 
called  One  Tree  Island,  which  serves  the  naviga- 
tors as  a  land-mark,  and,  at  a  distance,  has  the 
appearance  of  a  ship  under  sail.     There  are  like- 
wise two  small  sandy  islands,  generally  covered  with 
gulls ;  the  boatmen  sometimes  stop  here  to  look 
for  eggs,  which,  in  the  season,  are  found  in  con- 
siderable plenty.     In  passing  these  islands  we  ran 
aground  on  the  top  of  what  appeared  to  me  to  be 
a  sunken  island,  with  a  very  small  flat  surface  ;  it 
was  an  entire  rock,  not  more  than  seven  paces 
across ;  and,  on  every  side,  we  found  more  than 
1 


as" 

thirty  feet  water,  that  being  the  length  of  the  coM 
I  sounded  with. 

It  19  astonishing  what  myriads  of  small  butter. 
fl.es  covered  the  whole  surface  of  this  lake,  which, 
.ndeed  rather  resembled  the  large  fields  of  a.! 
orctard,  just  spread  with  the  fall  of  the  blossoms. 
I  tad  remarked  that,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  one 
of  the  boatmen  was  directed  to  fill  a  keg  with  wa- 
^r  before  we  started.  I  inquired  for  what  r^. 
son,  as  the  Uke  was  ftesh,  and  there  was  no  dan. 

ttat,  at  th.s  season,  «  the  late  wm  in  blmom,  and 

not  fit  to  be  drank."  This  I  found  almost  literally 
true.     The  cause  is  as  follows :— The  lake  is  in 
a  great  measure,  border  •'.  with  swamps  and  low 
grounds,  which  produce  innumerable  swanns  of 
small   butterflies,  especially  of  the  white  mod,. 
These  msects  cannot  fly  any  great  distance  without 
restuig,  and  a  very  light  breeze  off- shore  will  pre 
vent  dieu-  regaining  the  land  when  once  they  have 
teken  wmg;  i„  consequence  of  which,  they  soon 
faU  with  outspread  wings,  and  cover  the  lake  so 
completely  as  fully  to  justify  the  expression  of 

2  .T^K  r  "'""'"'■"     ^'*°"g''  the  water  of 
the  lake,  before  taken  up  in  a  glass,  appears  to  be 

perfectly  cearand  transparent,  yet,  upon  examina- 
tvhich  the  boatmen  call/«,,r  and  ague  ,ecds.-  but 

VOX..  I.  »  ' 


26 


K#!i 


in  reality,  are  the  eggs  of  certain  insects.  This 
inconvenience,  however,  continues  only  for  sibout 
six  weeks,  when  the  waters  again  become  pure 
and  wholesome. 

In  ckacending  the  Onondaga  River  from  the 
outlet,  the  land  is  low  on  both  sides  for  about 
five  miles;  the  right  shore  then  begins  gra- 
dually to  rise  and  improve  in  appearance,  while 
the  left  still  continues  low  for  a  considerable 
distance  further.  This  is  a  pleasant,  and,  in 
some  pkices,  a  rapid  stream,  increasing  to  the 
breadth  of  one  huixlredand  twenty -five  yards;  its 
length,  according  to  its  meanders  from  the  Oneida 
Lake,  to  its  junction  with  the  Seneca  and  Oswego 
Rivers  at  Three  River  Point,  is  twenty  miles. 

The  navigation  of  this  river  is  somewhat  dan- 
gerous, on  account  of  several  rocky  shoab,  and 
the  rapidity  of  its  current ;  it,  therefore,  requires  a 
particular  knowledge  of  these  places,  in  order  to 
take  a  boat  down  in  safety. 

Three  River  Point  is  most  eligibly  situated  on 
Ae  left  bank,  at  the  confluence  of  tlie  Onondaga, 
Seneca  and  Oswego  Rivers.  Although  no  town 
is  laid  out,  as  this  place  at  present  contains  but 
a  single  house,  yet,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say,  the 
time  will  shortly  arrive  when  it  will  be  the  site 
of  one  of  the  most  respectable  inland  towns  in 
this  ^4rt  of  the  state.  This  tract  lies  within  the 
militar^  township  of  Cicero ;  it  belongs  to  the  town, 


27 

and  is  at  present  under  lease  for  six  years.     The 
state  would  have  done  well  to  have  reserved  this  six 
hundred  acre  lot,  and  had  it  laid  out  for  a  town 
on  a  similar  plan  to  that  of  Oswego,  as  it  must 
always  command  a  great  share  of  trade,  for  all  the 
goods  bound  to  or  from  Oswego  must  pass  by 
Three  River  Point,  either  in  ascending  or  descend- 
ing,  exclusive  of  the  whole  trade  of  the  Genessee 
Country  by  the  Seneca  River,  as  well  as  the  salt 
trade  to  the  upper  country,  which  must  also  pass 
this  Point  on  its  way  to  the  Mohawk.     It  has, 
likewise,  nothing  to  apprehend  from  any  rivalship 
from  settlements  on  either  of  the  two  opposite 
points,  as  neither  of  these  possess  a  sufficient  ele- 
vation, being  subject  to  be  inundated  by  every  rise 
of  the  river. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  the  Point,  we  found  a  boat 
with  thirty.four  persons  on  board,  just  embarking 
on  a  voyage  across  the  lakes  to  Sandusky  ;  where 
we   heard   the    Indians   were    beginning    tj   be 
troublesome.     We  should  have  gone  on  in  com- 
pany  with  them,  but,  finding  myself  within  four- 
teen or  sixteen  miles  of  the  famous  salt-works  of 
Onondaga,  I  resolved  to  detain  the   boui   for  a 
couple  of  days,  until  I  could  have  an  opportunity 
of  visiting  this  natural  curiosity  of  our  country.   I 
accordingly  made  an  offer  to  our  captain,  who  I 
have  found  very  kind  and  obliging,  to  pay  him  six 
dollars  per  day  for  all  the  time  he  sliould  lose ;  to 


m 


28 

this  he  not  only  assented,  but  likewise  offered  to 
accompany  me.  After  some  little  trouble  I  enga- 
ged a  couple  of  men  with  a  canoe,  and  we  set  out 
the  same  evening,  and  arrived  at  the  salt-works 
about  midnight,  A  description  of  which  shall  be 
the  subject  of  my  next. 


Yoiu-s, 


C.  S. 


29 


LETtER  HI. 


Lake  Ontario,  Oswego,  July  26,  1807. 
Dear  Friend,     . 

THE  town  of  Salina,  the  site  of  these  celebrated 
Mlt-works,  ,s  distant  from  Three  River  Point 
about  sixteen  miles,  by  land ;  by  water,  which  is 

^X     '"p'"  'I "  ""  ""^'  ■""-•    From 
Ihree  River  Pomt  the  course  is  up  the  Seneca 

River  fourteen  miles,  where,  turning  ,o  the  left 
It  passes  through  a  low  swampy  ci-eek,  the  outte 
of  Salt  Lake,  being  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
m  length.     Salt  Lake  is  a  very  small  sheet  of  wa 
ter,  b  ing  no  more  than  six  miles  in  length  and 
about  one  and  a  half  in  breadth.     The  wat^  1, 
deep  and  transparent,  and  considered  as  very  good 
for  drinking,  it  is  also  well  stocked  with  ^^n 
and  a  variety  of  other  fine  fish.     I  must  not  T2 
enteitaimngyouwith  a  curious  little  story  i^spert 
.ng  this  lake,  which  I  find  generally  circuLeTa^d 
almostasgenerallycredited.  Our  boatmen,  amo'g 
o*ers    asserted  and  believed  that  the  bottom  or 
his  lake  IS  a  solid  bed  of  salt.     "  They  had  h"ard 

•hough  they  could  not  find  bottom    yet  W 


I.. 


i 


30 


It 


•'  dra\\'n  up  a  bottle  full  of  the  water  so  strongly 
"  impregnated  >vith  salt  as  to  float  an  egg  or  po- 
"  tato."     You  may  be  sure  I  did  not  long  hesi- 
tate about  trying  the  experiment,  and,  therefore, 
engaged  them  to  take  me  out  the  next  day,  when 
I  should  be  prepared  to  put  it  in  execution.     Ac- 
cordingly,  having  provided  a  line  and  bottle,  the 
one  for  sounding,  and  the  other  for  drawing  up  a 
sample  of  the  salt  water,  we  proceeded  to  every 
part  of  the  lake  which  they  pointed  out  as  being 
the  deepest,  but  found  nothing,  except  a  rocky, 
sandy,  or  muddy  bottom,  with  from  thirty  to  fifty 
feet  of  water.     Despairing  at  length  of  finding  any 
deeper  part  by  their  directions,  I  requested  them 
to  row  me  to  a  place  which  I  pointed  out  to  them, 
where  I  sounded  for  the  last  time,  and  found  a 
rocky  bottom  with  sixtj^-four  feet  of  water.     Ha- 
ving prepared  my  bottle  in  such  a  manner  that  I 
could  withdraw  tlie  cork  when  it  arrived  at  the 
bottom,  I  drew  it  up,  and,  as  I  expected,  found 
the  water  a  little  cooler,  but  not  otherwise  difterent 
from  that  on  the  surfiice. 

Our  two  boatmen  did  not  seem  inclined  to  give 
up  the  point  yet,  and  one  of  them  reasoned  in  this 
way — "  We  must  all  be  convinced  that  where  there 
"  is  salt  water  there  must  be  salt  to  make  it  so ; 
"  and,  as  we  know  that  the  salt  springs  rise  in  the 
"  marsh  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  there  must  be 
"  a  body  of  salt  underneath  ;  and,  if  that  is  the  case, 
*'  is  diere  any  thing  unreasonable  in   supposing 


ii 


SI 


«  that  the  lake  was,  originally,  a  great  salt  spring, 
"  issuing  out  of  a  solid  bed  of  mineral  salt  ?" 

I  then  asked  him,  that  granting  this  to  be  the 

case,  how  it  happened  that  the  water  of  this  great 

salt  spring  was  so  perfectly  fresh  ?     He  was  puz- 

zled  for  some  time,  but  at  last  replied,  "  the  great 

"  number  of  fresh  brooks  and  rivulets  which  dis- 

"  charge  themselves  into  this  lake,  contribute  so 

*^'  much  larger  a  supply  towards  filling  it,  that  the 

"  salt  water  is  lost  in  the  immensity  of  the  fresh." 

I  was  much  pleased  with  the  ingenuity  of  this 

man's  reasoning,  and  dare  say  you  will  likewise 

give  him  full  credit  when  you  are  further  informed 

that  he  could  neither  read  nor  write. 

But  to  proceed  with  my  narrative  :  After  having 
entered  the  lake,  and  coasted  for  four  miles  along 
the  left  shore,  we  arrived  at  Liverpool,  or,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  New  Ireland,  a  smaU  town 
wholly  occupied  in  making  salt,  containing  about 
twenty  wretched  hovels.  Of  its  salt  trade  I  shall 
speak  hereafter.  1  lom  Liverpool  it  is  two  miles 
across  the  lake,  to  a  small  creek  of  about  one-quar- 
ter  of  a  mile  in  length,  which  leads  to  the  salt- 
works  of  Onondaga. 

The  town  of  Salina  is  situated  on  a  bank 
fifty  feet  above  the  creek  and  marsh  in  front,  and 
contams  about  fifty  houses,  some  of  which  make 
a^  respectable  appearance.  The  country  imme- 
diately  around  the  town  appears  to  be  a  stifi"  barren 
clay  ;  and  wood,  from  the  vast  consumption  of  the 


~3 


!    / 


'',' 


f 


i\ 


'■♦%-w_ 


32 


furnaces,  has  already  become  scarce.     The  whole 
trade  of  this  village  arises  from  the  manufacture  of 
salt ;  nor  do  I  believe  there  is  a  single  individual 
in  the  town  who  is  not  concerned  in  the  trade. 
The  salt  springs  are  found  on  the  margin  of  an 
extensive  marsh,  not  unlike,  in  appearance,  to  the 
salt  marshes    of   Hoboken.      The   furnaces  are 
generally.placed  a  little  way  up  the  bank,  and  the 
works  are  supplied  by  hand  and  horse  pumps.  At 
present  they  have  about  three  hundred  ketdes  at 
this  place,  and  at  Liverpool  one  hundred  and  for- 
ty.four ;  all  these  are  kept  in  constant  operation,, 
both  day  and  night,  and  produce  about  two  thou- 
sand four  hundred  bushels  per  day.     From  the 
inexhaustible  nature  of  these  springs,  and  the  in- 
creasing population   and  consequent  demand  for 
salt,  there  can  be  no  doubt  but  that  Salina  will  be- 
come the  largest  inland  town  in  the  state. 

To  the  eye  the  Onondaga  salt  appears  equal  to 
that  from  Turks  Island;  yet,  although  it  is  as 
dear  and  white  as  the  latter,  it  is  found  to  be  from 
four  to  five  pounds  lighter  in  the  bushel.  No 
other  salt,  however,  is  used  in  this  country,  and  a 
great  part  of  die  states  of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia, 
Ohio,  and  Michigan  Territory-,  as,  likewise,  the 
whole  of  Upper,  and  a  considerable  part  of  Lower 
Canada,  are  wholly  supplied  from  these  works. 

I  examined  the  several  springs  used  in  manu- 
facturing this  necessary  article  of  life  ;  and,  though 


33 

there  was  a  considerable  variation  in  their  degrees 
of  strength,  yet  I  found  them  all  nearly  three  times 
as  strong  as  sea  water.     I  likewise  found  a  most 
excellent  spring  of  fresh  water  in  the  same  place 
and  within  two  rods  of  a  very  strong  salt  spring.' 
1  noticed,  however,  that  this  issued  from  the  sur- 
face of  a  stratum  of  clay,  which  lay  about  six 
inches  higher  than  those  that  were  salt.     I  have 
just  remarked  that  there  is  a  considerable  difference 
in  the  relative  strength  of  the  waters   of  these 
springs ;  and  I  have  been  informed  by  the  manu- 
facturers, that  some  will  require  but  ninety,  while 
others  take  one  hundred  and  twenty  gallons  of 
water  to  produce  one  bushel  of  salt.     You  will 
also  readily  perceive  that  the  quality  of  the  water 
must  be  very  materially  affected  by  every  change 
of  the  weather,  and,  consequently,  stronger  in  a 
dry  than  m  a  wet  season. 

Although,  in  the  former  part  of  this  letter    I 
amused  you  with  the  conclusion  drawn  by  one 'of 
my  canoe  men,  « that  the  bottom  of  the  lake  was 
"  a  bed  of  salt,'Vyet,  I  must  confess,  I  perceive  no 
readier  way  to  solve  the  difficuhv  respecting  the 
origm  of  these  springs  than  by  supposing  them  to 
pass  through  a  bed  of  that  mineral.     Although  I 
do  not  recollect  a  single  authenticated  fact  of  mi 
neral  salt  being  found  in  this  country,  yet  we  know 
that  Poland  and  Germany  have  mines  of  it  in 
abundance,  one  of  which,  I  recollect,  was  said  tc^ 

VOL.  I.  J. 


-<?•>.,._. 


^ 


liii} 


34 

"  contain  a  whole  village  within  its  interior,  and 
"  to  be  inhabited  by  fifteen  hundred  men,  women 
"  and  children  !"  But  you  need  not  believe  this 
unless  you  please. 

Altliough  Salina,  at  present,  does  not  employ 
more  than  one-fifth  part  of  that  number,  yet  I  will 
venture  to  predict  that,  in  the  short  period  of  thirty 
years,  her  population  above  ground  will  at  least 
equal,  if  not  surpass  it.  It  is  indeed  matter  of 
astonishment,  if  we  consider  that  scarce  a  dozen 
years  have  elapsed  since  this  whole  country  was 
inhabited  by  numerous  tribes  of  Indians,  of  whom, 
excepting  the  Oneidas,  scarce  an  individual  is  to 
be  seen.  TTie  price  of  salt  at  the  works  is  incre- 
dibly low,,  being  no  more  than  from  twenty. five  to 
thirty. one  cents  a  bushel  of  fifty-six  pounds,  or  two 
dollars  and  twenty-five  cents  a  barrel  containing 
five  bushels,  including  the  price  of  the  barrel  and 
inspection  fees. 

I  shall  now  return  to  Three  River  Point,  and 
continue,  my  narrative  down  to  the  city  of  Os- 
wego. The  Onondaga  and  Seneca  Rivers  uniting 
at  this  spot,  lose  their  respective  names,  and 
assume  that  of  Oswego,  It  is  from  this  circum- 
stance that  this  spot  has  been  named  the  Three 
River  Point.  The  navigation  of  this  river  is  ex. 
tremely  dangerous,  on  account  of  the  rapidity  of 
the  current,  and  the  obstructions  formed  by  nu- 
merous  rocks,  which  lie  hid  in  the  channel.  About 
five  miles  below  the  point  our  boat  very  narrowly 


% 


All 


■~*m — ■ — *^ 


3ff 


itcnor,  and 
len,  women 
believe  this 

not  employ 
,  yet  I  will 
Dd  of  thirty 
ill  at  least 
matter  of 
ce  a  dozen 
Quntry  was 
,  of  whom, 
adual  is  to 
cs  is  incre- 
mty-five  to 
ids,  or  two 
containing 
barrel  and 

Point,  and 
\ty  of  Os- 
ers  uniting 
ames,  and 
is  circum- 
the  Three 
iver  is  ex- 
rapidity  of 
ed  by  nu- 
lel.  About 
^  narrowly 


escaped  being  stove  to  pieces,  by  being  forced 
upon  what  is  called  the  Pilot  Rock.     The  rapidity 
of  the  current  here  was  so  great,  that  the  united 
strength  and  exertions  of  our  whole  boat's  crew, 
nine  in  number,  including  ourselves,  could  not  have 
prevented  the  boat  from  being  wrecked,  as  we  had 
become  exhausted  by  fatigue,  had  we  not  fortu- 
nately met  with  assistance  from  five  boats*  crews, 
who  were  coming  up  the  stream  empty.     These 
boats  being  very  narrow,  an  expert  pilot  will  con- 
duct  them  with  great  judgment  among  the  rocks ; 
but,  from  their  great  length,  (about  sixty  feet,) 
should  the  boat  happen  to  strike  any  thing,  or 
touch  a  rock  on  the  bottom,  the  rapidity  of  the 
current  sweeps  the  stem  round  with  so  much  vio- 
lence, that,  should  it  come  in  contact  with  some 
projecting  rock,  as  is  not  unfrequently  the  case, 
the  boat  is  instantly  dashed  to  pieces.     The  way 
of  managing  a  boat  on  these  waters,  when  she 
grounds  forward,  is  to  keep  her  jn  her  position, 
and  prevent  her  from  springing  with  the  current. 
For  that  purpose  a  couple  of  hands  jump  over  the 
bows,  and  with  hand-spikes  set   the   boat  back 
against  the  stream,  until  she  regains  tlie  regular 
channel ;    but  when  once  she  swings  in  a  very 
strong  current,  it  is  impossible  for  an  ordinary 
boat's  crew  to  check  her,  in  which  case,  if  she  has 
room,  and  a  clear  bottom,  no  evil  can  result ; 
but  if,  on  the  contrary,  she  strikes  a  rock,  ship- 
■wreck  becomes  inevitable.     Six  miles  below  the 


V»t 


36 

point  you  arrive  at  the  fiUls  of  Onondaga,  which, 
more  properly,  should  be  called  the  falls  of  Os- 
wego, as  they  are  upon  that  river.  This,  however, 
I  am  told  is  in  contradistinction  to  a  very  strong 
rapid,  four  or  five  miles  below  this,  which  is  called 
the  Oswego  Falls.    I  had  always  been  led  to  be- 
lieve  that  what  were  called  the  Falls  of  Onondaga 
were  nothing  more  than  a  mere  rapid,  tlierefore  I 
was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  a  perpendicu- 
lar  fall  of  the  whole  river  for  about  ten  feet,  ex- 
cepting  a  narrow  channel  of  about  twenty  feet  wide, 
wom  by  the  constant  friction  of  the  water.     The 
breadth  of  the  river  at  this  place  is  increased  to 
one  hundred  and  sixty  yards.     We  were  delayed 
some  time  at  the  falls,  as  the  whole  cargo  was  obli- 
ged to  be  unloaded,  and  transported  a  mile  over 
land  to  the  lower  landing  place.     The  carriage  at 
this  portage  is  twelve  and  a  half  cents  for  a  barrel 
of  salt,  and  one  dollar  a  ton  for  any  kind  of  mer- 
chandise. The  freight  of  salt  from  Salina  down  to  the 
port  of  Oswego  is  fixed  at  eightj'-seven  and  a  half 
cents  a  barrel,  including  the  portage  over  land.  After 
the  boat  Avas  unloaded,  the  captain  determined  to 
descend  the  foils  in  his  empty  boat  rather  than  wait 
for  the  return  of  the  teams  to  take  it  round  over 
land.     He  urgtd  me  very  strongly  to/nake  the 
descent  with  him,  but  as  I  should  not  then  have 
had    an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  boat  descend, 
nor  of  making  those  observations   that  I  could 
upon  the  banks,  I  declined,  and  recommended  my 


If 


V  V^'  -r-V^'- 


37 

companion  for  his  chief  male,  but  he  likewise  de- 
chned  the  honour,  preferring  a  walk  of  twenty  mi- 
m..es  hy  land,  ,o  a  flight  of  two  or  three  by  water 
The  eaptam,  and  some  of  his  men,  d>en  descended 

.hemselves,  and,  at  the  first  pitch,  nearly  one-half  of 
he  boa.  disappeared ;  all  the  men  IHl  do,™,  while 

the  countenance  and  conduct  of  the  captain  be- . 

tajed  evident  stgns  of  the  frolic  not  being  nuite 

»  »g.^eable  as  he  had  expected  ,  and,  when  we  ' 

^.ved  at  the  ,a.,ding  place,  we  found  the  boa 
half  full  of  water.  Havmg  repaired  .he  boat,  which 
had  receded  some  inju-y  in  descending  the  falls 
our  cargo  was  soon  reloaded,  and  we  continued 
our  voyage.     For  a  distance  of  five  miles  below 
the  falls  there  ,s  a  very  strong  n,pid,  the  descent 
of  whtch  ,s  probably  not  less  than  six  or  seven 
feet  m  each  mile;  this  continues  much  the  same 
unttl  yot,  amve  within  one  mile  of  the  town,  when 
you  suddenly  perceive  a  .^pid  increase  of  motion, 
occasioned  by  what  are  ciJIed  the  falls  of  Oswego 
The  town  and  its  Mpping  are  now  in  sight:  dii 
current  hu..!es  forward  almost  with  the  mpiditv  of 
an  arrow ;  and,  although  the  water  is  perfeetiv 
cleat-  and  transparent,  tlte  bed  of  the  river  a  smooth 
solid  rock,  and  the  water  so  shoal  that  you  fre 
quently  feel  the  boat  rub  against  the  bottom,  yet 
you  are  wafted  along  with  such  extreme  swifmess 
tliat  you  can  scarcely  get  a  glimpse  of  the  bottom 
as  you  ghde  oyer  it;  and,  before  you  can  imagine 
«,  find  yourself  unexpectedly  among  the  vessels 


n 


;'V 


1^ 


'^■2 


38 


at  Oswego.  I  made  .everal  inquiries  concerninjjj 
the  height  of  thesr  falls  or  rapids,  but  vnmt  of  the 
answers  I  obtained  appeared  sr  cAtravj)gunt  as 
scarcely  to  deserve  mentioning.  Were  1  to  hazard 
a  conjecture,  from  the  few  obycrvations  I  was  cna- 
bled  to  make,  I  should  not  estimate  them  at  more 
than  twelve  feet  for  this  last  mile  and  a  half. 

The  Western  Inland  Navigation  Company  are 
bound,  by  their  act  of  incorporation,  to  erect  locks 
at  all  the  falls  and  obstructions  on  this  route  ;  but, 
in  consequence  of  having  expended  their  funds, 
they  are  unable  to  proceed  with  their  improve- 
ments. The  state  has  already  made  a  purchase  of 
this  stock  to  a  large  amount,  m  order  to  give  aid 
to  the  coippany  ;  but  it  appears  to  be  the  general 
opinion,  that  unless  it  should  take  the  wh'  c  into 
its  hands,  or  give  the  proprietors  some  further  and 
more  effectual  assistance,  the  establishment  must 
inevitably  fail,  or,  at  least,  every  thing  will  be  suf- 
fered to  remain  in  its  present  unfinished  and  ob- 
structed state. 

The  town  of  Oswego,  which  is  twelve  miles  dis- 
tant from  Three  River  Point,  and  three  hundred 
and  eighty-one,  by  water,  from  New- York,  is  situa- 
ted on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  of  that  name 
at  the  place  where  it  discharges  itself  into  Lake 
Ontario,  and  consists  of  about  thirty  dwelling- 
houses  and  stores.  This  town  was  regularly  laid 
out  by  the  state,  which  reserved  a  part  of  the  mili- 
tary  township  of  Hannibal  for  this  purpose ;  but, 


x-^'-'**^. 


3  jfi>M  .^..fU  ^vi*.  ^ 


39 

at  present,  it  makes  a  very  contemptible  appear- 
ance from  the  irregular  and  confused  manner  m 
which  the  inhabitants  are  permitted  to  build  their 
houses  and  store..     Most  of  these    are  placed  as 
suits  the  convenience  or  whim  of  the  own.       in 
the  streets  or  elsewhere,  without  any  regard  to  the 
origmai  plan.     As  the  town  is  quite'small,  and 
there  IS  no  want  of  room,  the  inhabitant,  do  not 
complain  of  this  encroachment  at  pn  sent ;   hut  it 
certainly  would  be  not  only  for  tlieir  interest,  but 
would  hkewise  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
place,  were  they  to  observe  as  much  taste  anc    re- 
gTilarity  in  their  buildings  as  possible.  This  would 
obtain  a  favourable  notice  from  travellers,  and  pro- 
bably  be  the  means  of  gairhig  setti  ts  ;  whereas 
the  present  appearance  of  the  houses  and  accom- 
modaiions  are  really  despicable. 

This  town  has  likewise  been  made  a  port  of 
entry,  and,  when  we  arrived,  we  found  here  two 
American  and  two  British  schooners,  with  a  Rritisii 
brig,  all  engaged  in  transporting  salt.     Oswego 
has  no  produce  or  manufacture  of  its  own,  but  is 
wholly  dependent  on  the  salt  trade  for  its  support. 
Ihe  country  around  this  place,  v^ith  veiy  few  ex- 
ceptions, remains  still  in   i  state  of  nati  re.     The 
people  of  the  town  are  almost  entirely  indebteri  for 
their  provisions  to  a  supply  from  other  places   ex- 
ceptmg  in  the  article  of  fish,  of  which  they  have 
plenty  at  their  doors.    I  do  not  think  that  Oswego 
will  soon  become  of  that  importance  which  has 


40 


.  f 


ii 


generally  been  supposed,  as  its  sole  dependence  at 
present  is  upon  the  storing  and  shipping  of  salt, 
from  thut  branch  of  trade  which  crosses  Lakes 
Ontario  and  Erie ;  and  upon  the  small  returns  of 
furs,  which  are  growing  less  every  year.  Heavy 
articles,  such  as  potash,  pork,  beef,  flour,  &c.  are 
never  sent  up  the  Oswego  River,  on  account  of 
the  difficulty  of  ascending  with  a  loaded  boat 
against  the  violence  of  the  current.  A  market  for 
those  articles  must,  therefore,  be  sought  for  down 
the  St.  Lawrence,  until  the  navigation  of  the  Os- 
wego' is  rendered  more  practicable. 

Fort  Oswego  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river,  directly  opposite  the  tOAvn,  and  is  a  very 
commanding  situation.     You  will  recollect  this 
was  one  of  the  several  posts  within  our  limits 
which  was  retained  by  the  British  contrary  to  the 
treaty      The  site  is  high  and  commanding,  and 
one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  for  a  town  in  the 
western  country.     The  banks,  indeed,  are  too  high 
to  admit  of  an  easy  ascent  for  teams  and  carriages ; 
but  this  might  be  remedied  by  gradually  winding 
along  the  hill.     This  eminence  presents  a   very 
fine  prospect  of  the  whole  country    around,  while 
immediately  beneath  extends  the  smooth  surface 
of  the  lake,  which,  to  the  eye,  appears  boundless 
as  the  ocean.     I  was  so  'much  pleased  w  Ith  this 
situation,  and  the  prospect  it  afforded,  which  was 
heightened  by  the  appearance  of  two  vessels  at  a 


I'  'if 


41 

distance  on  the  Lake,  that  I  could  not  but  antici- 
pate  the  time,  when  Oswego  will  become  the  scene 
of  all  the  noise  and  bustle  that  characterize  alarjje 
shipping  port ;  and  this  delightful  spot  the  favoured 
retreat  oi  case  and  elegance. 

The  British  were  fully  impressed  with  the  ad- 
vantageous  situation  of  this  fort,  and  accordingly 
spared  neither  labour  nor  expense  in  keeping  u  in 
complete  order.     Since  the  surrender  of  it,  how. 
ever,  to  our  government,  it  has  been  suffered  to 
go  to  rum.     I  eannot  say  that  I  admire  that  policy 
which,  from  a  mistaken  economy,   has  suffered 
such  large  and  expensive  works  to  become  useless 
to  the  nation  at  so  early  a  period.     Not  that  I 
think  there  is  any  danger  of  our  country  ever  fall- 
mg  into  the  hands  of  Great  Britain,  yet,  in  case 
ot  a  rupture  between  the  two  nations,  of  which 
there   is  a  reasonable  probability  at  the  present 
moment,  how  easy  would  it  be  for  a  small  force  to 
take  possession  of  the  fort,  and,  in  one  night,  by 
being  properly  provided,  put  it  in  a  tenable  state, 
before  imy   sufficient  number  of  men  could   be 
brought  to  dislodge  them  ?     From  the  facility  of 
landing,  and  bringing  everything  with  them,  ( ven 
to  a  palisade,  an  enemy  might,  in  ten  days'   time 
render  the  wo  k  so  strong  as  to  resist  almost  any 
attack  that  could  be  made  upon  them  ;  and,  as  to 
a  supply  of  provisions,  it  requires  but  six  or  seven 
hours'  rowing  to  pass  into  Canada,  where  the  yare  as 

VOL.    I.  n. 


I  ) 


v\ 


iri 


42 

abundant  as  m  our  own  state.  Although,  at  the  close 
)f  the  war,  or  perhaps  soo»ier,  they  would  abandon 
the  fort,  yet  the  evils  resulting  from  an  entire  stop- 
page of  that  branch  of  our  salt  trade,  would  be  an 
incalculable  evil  to  the  intericMr  country,  the  greater 
part  of  whose  inhabitants  are  supplied  with  salt 
through  this  channel.  This  would  prove  so  great 
a  misfortune  that  scarcely  any  expense  ought  to  be 
spared  in  guarding  against  it.  A  company  of 
soldiers  would  not  only  be  sufficient  to  protect 
these  works,  but  likewise  to  keep  them  in  repair ; 
besides,  it  ought  to  be  remembered,  that  the  country 
for  thirty  miles  around  Oswego,  is  perhaps  the 
least  settled  of  any  of  the  western  part  of  this  state, 
so  that  no  considerable  force  could  be  immediately 
collected  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  dread  of 
another  Indian  war  at  present  occupies  the  minds 
of  tlie  inhabitants,  which,  I  am  informed,  has  aii- 
sen  from  some  threats  made  use  of  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  lake,  namely,  that  "  they  would  let 
"  the  Indians  loose ;"  and,  from  the  account  they 
give  of  the  numbers  and  enterprizing  spirit  of  these 
savages,  they  have  some  just  cause  for  alarm, 
especially  when  they  consider  that  one  night  may 
bring  them  over  from  the  opposite  shore.  The 
mouth  of  Oswego  River  is  in  latitude  43.  28.  N. 
and  76.  31.  W. 

Immediately  opposite  to  the  fort,  at  present  in- 
eluded  in  the  town  plat,  are  the  remains  of  an  old 
French  fortification  ;  and  about  half  a  mile  distant 


,  at  the  close 
uld  abandon 

entire  atop- 
vouki  be  an 
,  the  greater 
d  with  salt 
ove  so  great 
ought  to  be 
company  of 
t  to  protect 
1  in  repair ; 
the  country 
perhaps  the 
)f  this  state, 
mmediately 
lie  dread  of 
s  the  minds 
led,  has  aii- 
n  the  oppo- 
?y  would  let 
ccount  they 
(irit  of  these 

for   alarm, 

night  may 
horc.     The 

43.  28.  N. 


43 

iiom  the  town,  are  likewise  to  be  seen  the  ruins 
of  some  other  ancient  fortifications,  the  founders  of 
which  are  long  since  lost  to  the  memory  of  the 
natives.  I  am  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the 
art  of  fortification  to  judge  of  the  utility  of  works 
situated  as  these  are,  yet  I  could  observe  that  they 
appeared  to  be  calculated  i  ather  for  defence  against 
the  land  side  than  that  of  the  lake. 

I  am  this  moment  summoned  on  board— Have, 
therefore,  barely  time  to  inform  you  that  I  have  en- 
gaged a  passage  to  Niagara,  on  board  of  the  Ame- 
rican schooner  Fair  American,  which  is  to  sail  im- 
mediately.  From  thence  you  may  expect  hear 
agciin  from 

Yours, 

C.  S. 


<  i 


present  in- 
is  of  an  old 
mile  distant 


44 


?;  I 


LETTER  IV. 

Presque  Isle,  Upper  Canada,  July  31,  1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

MY  last  informed  you  that  I  had  taken  passage 
on   board   of  the  Fair   American,    a   handsome 
schooner,  of  about  eighty  tons  burthen,  fitted  with 
every   convenience  that  could  render  a  passage 
agreeable  on  the  Hudson.     We  were  bound  to 
Niagara,  but  head  winds,  and  a  heavy  sea,  com- 
pelled  us  to  seek  a  harbour  in  his  Britannic  Ma- 
jesty's  dominions.     We  sailed  from  Oswego  on 
the  twenty-sixth  of  this  month,  in  company  with 
two  British  schooners,  who  were  bound  to  dif- 
ferent ports.     There  were  eight  passengers  of  us 
m  the  cabin,  consisting  of  Mrs.  Y.  and  her  sister 
on  their  return  from  New- York  to  Niagara,  Dr.' 
E.  and  daughter,  from  Nova  Scotia,  who  were  on 
a  visit  to  some  friends   in  York,  Upper  Canada ; 
Mr.  B.  on  his  return  to  Presque  Isle,  in  Pennsyl- 
vania,  from  a  trip  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi, 
where  he  expected  to  have  found  a  certain  great 
diaracter,  now  at  Richmond  in  Virginia ;  Mr.  D. 
who  is  about  establishing  himself  as  a  trader  at 


45 
Chamauque  Lake  ;  and  Mr  I    „  j 

»  -"S-'h^'r.'^  «^"-"y  performed 

port;  but,  on  settino-  i„,   tf   ^  '^™g  "•« 

-  we.  ;e*erbfcrer  sl*  f  T  '^" 
ever,  which  soon  appea^H  in  f""' *"'''''  '«'»'■ 
■he  approach  of  a  vZT  ^  "*'''  '"'"e^'ed 
nued  to  beat  for  ,  J  rf  '  "^'T  ""^'^^  «e  eonti- 
"eased  to  .  fZhZi^'T^  "'''"*'•  "''-  "  "- 
he.^  -a  ast^"  nf^;^„:'f  ,™-d  -'h  a  short 
Sreeable.     P-^viTuTto  th  r"''™'^'^  *»" 

M  been  .„ch  rrTin.^ J^^T  ""^-  "^ 
Of  the  ladies;  4«t  ther  w.  conversation 

unable  to  afford  .o  each  TlT^       *^^  '^ere 
wfeh  their  situation,  renuir^  t!T   """''™^ 
been  n,uch  aecustomedTt  ,f^'  '  '"^' 
rolling  of  a  vessel  at  sea    ye,  thf*'  '"^  ''«"''' 
experienced  was  so  veryXm  t^r  '  """ 
gan  to  feel  the  necessitv  T T    '  "^  '  >^  be- 
^horttime.     SicC:'^:,';:-^-<^eWora 
<unately  never  affects  me  mo'  ,      '    '"'''''"'  f°'- 

Our  situation  bein,    hus^'""  •'"  "''"•""• 
Hging  to  be  set  on  shore   afn'  *'  '"*' 
inning  short,  we  pLmH'  "''  P™"'"'""' 

endeavour  to  ;arerCH^,;""'".t-P'ain  to 

eonsiderable  difficulty    fceff  f!'^"^'"-"-^ 

We  had  no  sooner  Lc"'  "'  ""^  P'"^- 
ner  come  to  an  anchor  than  wr 


« 


46 


hoisted  out  our  boat  and  landed  the  ladies,  who 
in  less  than  half  an  hour  were  as  sprigbtiy  as 
ever. 

Plaque  Isle,  so  called  from  the  resemblance  it 
beara  tc  a  place  of  the  same  name  on  Lake  Erie, 
has  lately  been  made  a  port  of  entry,  and  is  the 
county  town.     It  contains  a  custom-house,  court- 
house  and   co'juity   cleik's   office,    with   several 
others,  all  of  Miiich  are  included  in  one  building, 
of  but  an  ordinary  appearance,  whose  owner  com- 
bmes  in  himseif  the  offices  of  collector,  county  clerk, 
&c.^as  well  as  ithat  cf  a  mag-istrate  of  the  county. 
As  we  were  in  a  foreign  port  the  captain  was  obli- 
ged  to  enter  his  vessel  and  pay  the  customary  fees. 
This  town  is  regularly  laid  out,  and,  as  the  price 
of  a  half  acre  lot  in  this  place  is  thirty  dollars,  one 
would  be  inclined  to  believe  that  they  have  calcu- 
late upon  very  rapid  improvements.  As  we  were 
in  a  good  harbour,  and  the  gale  still  continued,  we 
were  well  satisfied  with  our  situation.     One  se- 
rious difficulty,  however  occurred ;  our  appetites 
had  become  so  keen  since  our  recovery  from  sick- 
ness, that  we  had  literally  devoured  every  thing 
eatable  on  board,  and  had  not  even  a  sufficiency 
left  to  furnish  a  dinner ;  nor  could  we  procur^i 
even  a  mouthful  of  provisions,  of  any  kind,  at  the 
only  house  hi  the  place.     In  this  dilemma  we  re- 
solved to  go  in  quest  of  something  to  eat.     The 
ladies  went  to  look  for  blackberries.  Dr.  E.  and 
Mr.  B.  were  despatched  in  a  canoe  up  the  bay, 


•mm 


I^ditea 


47 


where  we  had  seen  a  party  of  the  Massasaugo  In- 
dians  fishing,  whUe  Mr.  D.  Mr.  L.  and  myself  took 
our  fowling  pieces  and  scoured  the  woods.     After 
an  abseene  of  about  two  hours  we  all* returned; 
the  ladies  produced  about  a  pint  of  blackberries,' 
the  Doctor  and  his  partner  brought  a  sun-dried  eel, 
^vfcich  they  had  bought  of  the  Indians,  while  our 
party  tumbled  out  of  our  pockets   five   or   six 
ground  squirrels,  as  many  wood-peckers,  and  one 
pigeon.     A  sumptuous   entertainment   for   eight 
half-starved  mortals.     However,  by  the  help  of  the 
sweepings  of  a  flower  barrel,  we  made  out  to  make 
what  our  captain  called  a  "  royal  stew,"  of  «vhich 
no  one  would,  however,  eat  but  he  and  myself^ 
and  I  can  assure  you  I  never  made  a  more  hearty 
meal  in  my  life. 

The  next  morning,  at  day-break,  the  captain 
set  out  in  the  boat,  witli  some  of  the  crew,  in 
order  to  pass  over  into  the  Bay  of  Canty,  which 
lies  about  .en  miles  east  of  this  place,  and  is  well 
settled ;  and,  as  he  did  not  expect  to  return  until 
the  next  day,  he  requested  us,  in  the  mean  time, 
to  take  care  of  ourselves.  We  really  now  began 
to  feel  rather  in  an  awkward  situation,  as  our  appe- 
tites  were  craving,  and  we  had  nothing  to  eat.  I 
proposed  a  further  division  of  our  company,  and 
ventured  to  promise  a  plentiful  dinner,  if  they 
would  follow  my  directions.  In  pursuance  of  tliis 
plan  the  ladies  were  sent,  with  a  lamentable  stcry 
of  our  starving  condition,  to  the  same  house  where 


>  4 

i 


•  c:>-. 


48 


we  had  been  so  unsuccessful  the  day  before,  and, 
as  they  luid  "  the  one  thing  needful,"  we  did  not 
despair  of  their  success.  Messrs.  B.  D.  and  L. 
took  their 'fowling  pieces  and  went  down  the  bay, 
where  I  had  noticed  considerable  flocks  of  ducks 
flying ;  while  Dr.  E.  and  myself  proceeded  up  the 
bay,  provided  with  the  necessary  fishinc;  apparatus, 
in  order  to  try  our  luck  in  that  sport.  At  the  same 
time  we  despatched  two  of  the  men  belonging  to 
the  vessel  to  some  mills,  at  about  four  miles  dis- 
tance, in  order  to  procure  some  flower.  After  an 
absence  of  about  three  hours  we  returned,  and 
found*  the  ladies  had  been  more  successful  than  we 
had  any  reason  to  hope  ;  they  had  procured  a  sup- 
ply of  butter,  bread  and  milk,  and  the  promise 
of  some  meat.  Mr.  B.  and  party  had  shot  seven 
large  ducks  ;  while  Dr.  E.  and  myself  had  taken 
about  seventy  fine  bass.  We  had  likewise  fallen 
in  with  a  party  of  Massasaugo  Indians,  and  given 
them  to  understand  that,  if  they  brought  fish  to 
our  vessel,  which  we  pointed  out  to  them,  we 
would  give  them  both  money  and  whiskey,  and, 
by  way  of  encouragement,  gave  them  a  hearty 
dram.  This  had  the  desired  effect,  for  we  had  no 
occasion,  afterwards,  to  go  a  fishing,  unless  for 
amusement,  for  they  fumished  us  with  such  an 
abundance,  that  we  knew  not  what  to  do  with 
them,  so  that  the  crew  salted  up  large  quantities. 
The  Indians  seemed  to  pay  very  little  regard  to 
1 


49 


money,  m  dealing  with  us;  liquor  was  their 
chief  inducement,  and  they  would  give  a  hundred 
weight  of  fish  for  a  pint  of  whiskey. 

I  saw  the  same  method  made  use  of  here,  for 
taking  fish,  which  I  have  before  witnessed  upon 
the  Oneida  Lake.     Although  I  did  not  think  this 
could  afford  me  any  amusement,  yet  I  felt  a  de- 
sire  to  try  the  experiment,  and  accordingly  enga- 
ged  a  Canadian  to  prepare  his  boat  for  the  evening. 
It  is  indeed  astonishing.what  quantities  of  fish  may 
be  taken  in  this  way.     The  fish  appear  to  be  de- 
lighted  with  the  sparkling  glare  thro^vn  around 
them,  and,  as  the  water  is  perfectly  clear  and  trans- 
parent,  you  may  distinguish  them  at  twenty  and 
thirty  yards  distance ;  nor  will  they  stir  if  you 
paddle   immediately  over  them,  unless  you  'are 
noisy,  or  make  a  pass  at  them;  thev  then  dart  a 
small  distance  out  of  the  way,  where  'you  may  ap- 
proach   them  again.     We  were  engaged  in  this 
sport  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  during  which  time 
we  caught  eleven  fish,  weighing  together  not  less 
than  two  hundred  pounds.     We  saw  no  salmon  in 
this  bay,  but  there  are  pike,  maskonangee  and 
buffaloe  fish,  which  will  weigh  from  five  to  thirty 
pounds.     The  bass,  of  which  there  are  varieties 
are  very  abundant,  and  are  from  one  to   three 
pounds  weight.     Eels  are  likewise  found  in  great 
plenty,  equal  in  size  and  flavour  to  those  of  the 
Oneida  Lake. 

VOL.  I.  « 


50 


J* 


Tlie  land  around  this  bay,  and  for  several  miles 
back,  is  a  rich  level  country,  and,  about  five  miles 
from  the  harbour,  there  are  several  considerable  set- 
tlements. As  I  was  one  day  strolling  through  the 
woods  with  my  gun,  I  unexpectedly  heard  several 
voices,  and  shortly  afterwards  came  upon  a  very 
plain  road,  which,  in  a  very  little  time,  brought  me 
to  a  house,  which  proved  to  be  a  country  tavern. 
On  inquiry,  I  found  this  was  the  main  road  through 
the  province,  and  led  to  York,  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  Upper  Canada.  Here  I  found  six  or 
seven  plain  looking  farmers,  who  were  travelling 
towards  York.  Perceiving  that  I  was  a  stranger, 
they  inquired  to  what  part  of  the  province  I 
belonged'?  I  told  them  I  was  a  traveller  from 
New- York  to  Niagara,  but  obliged  to  put  into 
their  harbour  on  account  of  bad  weather.  The 
affair  of  the  Chesapeake  had  but  just  reached  their 
ears  ;  they  were  very  anxious  to  know  whether 
I  thought  it  would  lead  to  a  war  ?  I  told  them  I 
did  not  think  it  would,  as  I  could  not  believe  the 
British  government  would  sanction  the  unwarranta- 
ble proceedings  of  their  admiral,  and,  therefore, 
would  be  ready  to  make  us  all  the  concessions  we 
could  expect.  They  appeared,  and  even  express- 
ed themselves,  disappointed,  as  they  hoped  that 
it  would  end  in  a  rupture,  in  which  event  they 
expected  to  become  a  part  of  the  United  States. 

Upon  my  return  to  the  harbour  I  had  some  con- 
versation  with  the  officer  before  mentioned,  and, 


p.^-  ^tf^niimmm, 


veral  miles 
t  five  miles 
derable  set- 
hrough  the 
;ard  several 
pon  a  very 
brought  me 
itry  tavern, 
•ad  through 
of  govern- 
md  six  or 
e  travelling 
a  stranger, 
province  I 
Lveller  from 
to  put  into 
ther.  The 
;ached  their 
>vv  whether 
told  them  I 
believe  the 
Luivvarranta- 
1,  therefore, 
cessions  we 
en  express- 
hoped  that 
event  they 
ed  States. 
I  some  con- 
tioned,  and, 


51 

among  oUier  things,  inquired  what  dependence  the 
British  government  could  place  upon  their  provin- 
cial militia  ?  His  answer  was,  "  that,  as  they  had 
"  almost  wholly  emigrated  from  the  United  States, 
"  the  Canadian  government  did  not  place  any  con- 
"  jidence  in  them." 

Our  captain  having  returned,  with  a  sufficient 
stock  of  provisions,  bread  excepted,  he  determines 
to  weigh  anchor  to-morrow  morning,  and  proceed 
on  the  voyage  to  Niagara  ;  from  whence  you  may 
expect  to  hear  from  me  again. 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


T-i 


"X-.^*  XN-  A 


5'2 


I         ' 

m 


LETTER  V. 

Fort  Niagara,  Lake  Ontario,  August  4,  1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

THE  day  after  we  left  Presque  Isle  we  spoke 
the  British  schooner  Hunter,  bound  to  York.  This 
place,  which  you  will  find  laid  down  on  most  of  our 
old  maps  by  the  name  of  Toranto,  is  immediately 
opposite  to  the  River  Niagara.  It  is  said  to  be  the 
best  of  any  harbour  on  the  lake,  and  contains 
about  two  hundred  houses.  As  two  of  our  pas- 
sengers.  Dr.  E.  and  his  daughter,  were  bound  to 
that  port,  they  embraced  the  present  opportunity 
of  shortening  their  voyage. 

The  meeting  of  these  two  vessels  afforded  me 
much  amusement,  and  for  a  moment  made 
me  forget  that  I  was  only  sailing  upon  a  fresh 
water  pond,  as  all  the  ceremony  usual  upon  meet- 
ing on  the  Atlantic  was  practised  upon  this  occa- 
sion. 

The  wind  having  been  tolerably  free  since  we 
left  our  port,  we  flattered  ourselves  with  a  conti- 
nuance of  it,  which  would  have  brought  us  to  our 
desired  harbour  by  evening ;   but  we  were  once 


^#". 


-:"*■  9*'-^mw-- 


SsatW^Bt^ 


53 


o'tiock  in 
y  one  of  th 


more   disaj  pointed,  for,  about  tl 
the  afternoon,  we  were  assai  ,^  ,,„^  „^    ,„ 

severest  thunder  storms  that  I     ver  knew ;    an^i 
for  half  an  hour,  were  obliged  to  .and  all  our  sail, 
after  which  i{  cleared  awa)     le.ving  us  without  J 
breath  of  wind. 

The  lake,  at  this  time,  being  perfectl)-  cal      md 
smooth,  and,  from  the  information  of  .he  ca^.tain 
the  place  where  we  lay  as  deep  as  any  part  of  it,  I 
was  induced  to  try  the  experiment  of  drawing  up 
some  water  from  a  depth  of  forty  or  fifty  fathom, 
which    I   had    been    told  would    be   found    re- 
markably  cool,  and  more  agreeable  than  the  finest 
spring  water.     It  being  the  warmest  season  of  the 
year,  and  this  day  particularly  hot,  I  thought  a 
supply  of  cool  water  would  be  a  most  desirable 
acquisition.    I  accordingly  prepared  a  line  of  forty 
fathom,  and,  having  secured  the  bottle  in  such  a 
manner  that  I  could  withdraw  the  cork  after  it  had 
descended  the  length  of  my  line,  drew  up  a  bottle 
full  of  the  water  from  that  depth,  which  I  found 
very  cool.     Upon  applying  to  it  Fiu-enheit's  ther- 
mometer,  I  found  it  fell  to  S:!>^,  and,  immediately 
after,  drawing  up  a  bucket  full  from  the  surface 
and  applyiniv  the  thermometer  to  it,  it  continued 
to  rise  until  it  rested  at  68-  ;  a  difference  of  fifteen 
degrees. 

The  wind  continuing  Hght  and  baffling  during 
the  night,  we  made  bat  very  little  progress  toward 
our  port,  and,  at  sunrise,  the  wind  came  directly 


i  -II 


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2.0 


i.4    III  1.6 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEPSTER.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


54 


I 


Hh 


W 


a-head.  Before  the  rising  of  the  wind,  as  I  was  on 
deck,  I  could  very  plainly  distinguish  the  hollow 
munnuring  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  although 
not  less  than  twenty  miles  distant.  As  soon  as  the 
wind  began  to  breeze,  however,  the  sound  was 
lost,  nor  did  I  hear  it  again  until  I  landed  at  this 
place.  The  roar  of  these  falls  can  be  heard  at  any 
considerable  distance  only  during  a  perfect  calm, 
and  when  a  light  current  of  air  comes  from  the 
direction  of  the  falls  ;  when,  I  am  told,  it  has  been 
heard  at  a  distance  of  forty  miles  across  the  lake. 

Having  been  buffeted  about  all  that  day  in  sight 
of  our  port,  we  at  length  gained  the  harbour  a  lit- 
tle after  dark,  and  landed  at  the  American  garrison, 
where  we  slept  that  night,  and  the  next  morning 
passed  over  to  Newark,  on  the  British  side  of  the 
river. 

The  town  cf  Newark,  or,  as  it  is  frequently 
called.  West  Niagara,  to  distinguish  it  from  East 
Niagara,  on  the  American  side,  lies  on  the  right 
side  of  the  river  us  you  enter  it  from  the  lake  ;  it  is 
pleasantly  situated,  and  makes  a  handsome  appear- 
ance from  the  water,  and  contains  about  two  him- 
dred  houses.  The  British  have  erected  a  conve- 
nient light- house  on  the  point  just  below  the  town, 
and  directly  opposite  the  American  fort.  The 
British  fort  is  a  mile  above  the  town ;  the  garri- 
son  at  present  consists  of  two  hundred  mei: ;  the 
works  are  said  to  be  strong,  and  to  command  those 
of  the  Americans.     They  have  been   very  busy 


il 


55 

ever  since  the  arrival  of  the  news  of  the  attack  on 
the  Chesapeake  frigate;  since  which  they  have 
opened  two  new  embrasures,  which  bear  upon 
the  American  garrison.  They  have,  likewise, 
a  full  band  of  musicians  attached  to  the  gar- 
rison,  for  the  honour  of  his  majesty's  arms,  and 
the  entertainment  of  his  soldiers,  who,  notwith- 
stunding  this  temptation  to  remain,  never  suffer  an 
opportunity  of  escaping  to  pass  unimproved. 

The  Niagara  River  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  breadth  ;  it  affords  plenty  of  excellent  fish,  and 
its  current  is  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour. 
There  were  three  British  schooners  lying  at  the 
King's  yard,  when  we  arrived,  two  of  which  sailed 
the  next  morning.     The  greater  part  of  the  in- 
habitants  of  this   town  are  Americans,    and   as 
warmly  attached  to  our  government  as  our  own 
citizens.     They  never  seek  to  disguise  their  sen- 
timents in  public,  but  express  themselves  with  as 
much  freedom  as  you  would  do  at  the   Theatre 
or  Tontine  Coffee-House.  I  was  at  a  public  house 
where  eigiit  or  ten  of  the  inhabitants  were  collected 
around  a  billiard  table  ;  the  attack  upon  the  Che- 
sapeake  was  the  topic  of  conversation,  and  one 
gendeman  observed,  "  if  congress  will  only  send 
"  us  a  flag,  and  a  proclamation  declaring  that  who- 
"  ever  is  found  in  arms  against  the  United  States 
"shall  forfeit  his  lands,  we  will  fight  ourselves 
"  free  witliout  any  expense  to  diem." 


)   ■ 


/ 


) 


1 


'^  ;^1 


56 

The  American  garrison,  which  at  present  con- 
sisis  of  no  more  than  sixty  men,  commanded  by 
Capt.  L.  are  daily  engaged  in  strengthening  the 
works  of  their  fort,  ahhough  no  orders  from  our 
government  have  been  received  to  that  purpose  ; 
yet,  in  consequence  of  the  unpleasant  state  of 
our  affairs,  a  double  guard  has  been  set,  and 
stricter  discipline  established. 

I  had  expected  to  find   a   considerable  town 
around  this  fort,  and,  therefore,  was  not  a  litde 
disappointed  when  I  saw  not  even  the  shadow  of 
one.     About  a  mile  above  there  is  a  new  settle- 
ment laid  out,  called  Young's  Town,  which  at 
present   consists  of  no    more    than    five   or   six 
houses.    About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  Young's 
Town  is  an  elevated  situation,   whi:h  will  admit 
of  a  fortification  being  constructed  sufficiently  high 
to  command  the  British  fort,  which  is  immediately 
opposite  to  it.     This,  however,  must  be  done  in 
time  of  peace,  as  it  cannot  be  expected  that,  when 
it  is  in'their  power  to  prevent  it,  they  would,  du- 
ring a  wtu-,  suffer  a  work  to  be  erected  which, 
eventually,  would  dislodge  them  from  their  pre- 
sent  position. 

I  flattered  myself  that,  before  this  time,  I  should 
have  had  a  peep  at  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  been 
enabled  to  have  stiid  a  word  or  two  respecting 
them  ;  but  I  find  myself  still  seven  miles  further 
off  than  I  expected,  from  the  accounts  of  Win- 
1 


■^, 


resent  con. 
tnanded  by 
hening  the 
i  from- our 
t  purpose  ; 
It  state  of 
\  set,  and 

'able  town 
lot  a  little 
shadow  of 
lew  settie- 
which  at 
/e    or   six 
i  Young's 
kvill  admit 
lently  high 
imediately 
)e  done  in 
;hat,  when 
^ould,  du- 
^d  which, 
their  pre- 

,  I  should 
and  been 
especting 
es  further 
of  Win- 


57 

terbotham  and  Morse,  who  both  represent  the 
fails  as  being  but  eight  miles  from  the  lake, 
whereas  they  are  not  less  than  fifteen.  The  mouth 
of  Niagara  River  lies  in  latitude  43.  10.  N.  and 
79.  15.  W. 

As  the  vessel  I  arrived  in  is  to  go  to  Lewis 
Town,  which  is  eight  miles  from  this,  and  a  fair 
wind  inviting  me,  I  shall  continue  on  board. 

Yours, 

c.  a 

p.  S.  The  distance  from  Oswego  is  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty-five  miles,  and  from  New- York,  by 
water,  five  hundred  and  forty-six.  The  passage 
from  Oswego  to  this  place  is  six  dollars  for  a 
cabin  passenger,  including  board.  The  freight  of 
a  barrel  of  salt  is  sixty-twoand  a  half  cents ;  mer- 
chandise  at  the  rate  of  one  dollar  a  barrel,  avera- 
ging fifty  cents  to  a  hundred  weight.  Salt  is  a 
cash  article,  and  is  said  to  be  a  lawful  tender 
throughout  the  western  country. 

c.  a 


VOL.  y. 


N 


[J 


58 


'f  : 


LETTER  VI. 

% 

Chippaway,  Upper  Canada,  Atigmt  6,  1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

FROM  Niagara  we  proceeded  up  the  river  to 
Lewis  Town,  on  the  left  bank,  a  new  settlcnjent  of 
about  a  dozen  houses,  so  called  in  honour  of  his  ex 
excellency  Governor  Lewis ;  but,  as  his  sun  of  glo- 
ry  has  set,  the  inhabitants  talk  of  petitioning  the  le- 
gislaiure  for  leave  to  change  its  name !  Immediately 
opposite  to  it  lies  Queen's  Town,  a  village  of  Up- 
per  Canada,  containing  about  a  hundred  houses, 
and  a  small  garrison  of  twenty-eight  men.  Both 
these  towns  are  situated  at  the  head  of  the  naviga- 
tion  of  Niagara  River,  and  each  has  a  carrying  place 
round  the  foils  ;  that  on  the  American  side,  how- 
ever,  is  the  best,  and  two  miles  the  shortest.  The 
freight  and  passage  are  the  same,  whether  you 
land  here  or  at  Niagara. 

The  rapids  commence  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  above  these  towns,  and  continue  with  increa- 
sing and  irresistible  force  for  nearly  eight  miles, 
up  to  the  foot  of  the  falls. 


ust  6,  1807. 


59 

The  State  of  New- York  has  granted  the  exclu- 
sive right  to  Porter,  Burton  &  Co.  for  a  term  of 
years,  of  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schlosser,  which  is 
the  landing  place  on  the  American  side,  immediate- 
\y  abovt  the  falls,  upon  condition  that  thty  should 
build  store-houses  at  Lewis  Town,  Fort  Schlosser 
and  Black  Rock,  on  Lake  Erie,  which  they  have 
done.     The  portage  for  salt  and  other  articles  was 
formerly  principally  upon  the  British  side;  but,  since 
the  present  arrangement,  the  whole  of  the  ponage 
is  on  the  American  side.     Add  to  this,  that  there 
is  now  much  greater  security  in  transporting  goods 
dian  formerly,  as  this  company  are  bound  not  only 
to  have  all  perishable  articles  housed  and  stored, 
but  are  even  answerable  for  the  safe  delivery  of 
whatever  is  committed  to  their  care.   The  portage 
is  thirty,  seven  and  a  half  cents  a  barrel  to  Fort 
Schlosser,  and  merchandii. .  at  the  rate  of  twenty, 
five  cents  per  hundred.     The  distance  is  seven 
miles. 

I  spent  part  of  a  morning  at  Queen's  Town, 
where  the  only  topic  of  conversation  was  war.  The 
sam*  sentiments  prevailed  there  as  at  Niagara  and 
Pr.  .|ue  Isle,  namely,  a  determined  partiality  to- 
wards the  United  States,  and  a  decided  and  almost 
avowed  hostility  to  the  British  government. 

On  your  way  to  the  falls,  and  about  four  miles 
below  them,  on  the  American  side,  is  a  very  cu- 
rious  place,  called  the  Devil's  Diving  Hole,  which 
is  nearly  one  hundred  feet  deep ;  the  edge  of  it  is 


♦  ^■41  -f^'' 


^i^l^-^. 


60 


so  very  near  the  road  that  they  have  taken  the  pre- 
caution to  cut  down  some  trees,  so  as  to  form  a 
kind  of  l)arricado,  in  order  to  prevent  cattle  at 
strangers  from  falling  into  it.  This  hole,  as  it  is 
called,  is,  more  properly  speaking,  the  narrow  ex- 
tremity of  a  considerable  ravine,  which  has,  at 
some  remote  period,  been  formed  in  the  rock  ;  it 
shelves  off  as  it  descends  towards  the  river,  and  is 
in  length  about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  road 
to  the  river.  The  top  is  so  overgrown  with 
bushes  that  a  hasty  view  would  induce  many  to 
suppose  it  to  be  really  a  hole  ;  but  a  closer  exami- 
nation sooii  leads  the  eye  along  the  windings  of 
its  courses,  and  discovers  a  very  considerable 
breadth  at  no  great  distance.  A  hemlock  tree, 
firmly  rooted  at  the  bottom,  stretches  its  top  al- 
most to  the  surface,  and  is  so  conveniently  fitted 
to  the  hole  or  opening,  that  you  have  only  to  de- 
scend five  or  six  feet,  when  its  branches  afford 
you  a  safe  and  easy  step-ladder  quite  to  the  bot- 
tom, where  you  will  find  a  copious  spring  of  ex- 
cellent water  to  refresh  yourself. 

They  relate  an  occurrence  which  is  said  to  have 
taken  place  at  this  spot  during  the  French  wars ; 
the  circumstances  are  as  follows :  "  A  British  de- 
tachment being  pursued  by  a  superior  French 
force,  were  hemmed  in  in  such  a  manner  that 
"  their  retreat  to  the  road  was  cut  off,  and  tiieir  es- 
'*  cape  effectually  prevented  by  this  ravine  ;  seeing 
"  their  situation  irretrievable,  they  laid  down  their 


(( 


(( 


•'1 


.^1 

'*  arms,  and  surrendered  themselves  prisoners  of 
war ;  notwithstanding  which,  the   French,  with 

"  charged  bayonets,  rushed  upon  them,  and  prr- 
cipitated  the  whole  party  down  this  precipe, 
where  they  aU  perished  except  one,  whose  Ufe 

'  was  preserved  by  falling  on  some  of  his  com- 

"  rades." 

On  leaving  Lewis  Town,  at  about  the  distance 
of  a  m,ie,  ,s  a  very  considerable  hill,  from  the  top 
ot  which  IS  seen  an  immense  tract  of  fine  level 
land,  stretching  through  the  Genessee  Country  on 
the  east,  through  that  part  of  Upper  Canada  which 
hes  along  Lake  Ontario  to  the  west,  and  even  be 
yond  the  lake  towards  the  north.     The  country  to 
the  south,  although  so  obstructed  with  timber  as 
to  prevent  a  view  to  any  great  distance,  I  am  in- 
formed  continues  level  as  far  as  that  part  of  Lake 
Erie  which  forms  the  division  line  of  the  States 
of  New- York  and  Pennsylvania. 

The  village  of  the  Tuscaroras  is  situated  about 
three  miles  to  the  east  of  this  hill.    These  Indians 
are  under  the  pastoral  care  of  the  Rev.  Elkanah 
Holmes,  who  was  absent  on  a  journey  to  Albany 
which  prevented  me  from  obtaining  all  the  infor' 
mation  I  expected.     This  tribe  is  already  in  a 
great  measure  civilized,  having  a  number  of  trades 
and  improvements  among  them;    and  some   of 
them  have  become  rich  and  substantial  farmers 
One  of  the  tribe  informed  me  that  they  consisted 
at  present  of  eighty  men. 


V  V- 


¥ 


}■' 


I'i 


•y  «^%,»*«^^. 


62 


Two  miles  below  the  falls  is  a  very  singular 
whirlpool,  which  is  caused  by  an  abrupt  turn  of  the 
river  to  the  right ;  the  current  is  so  violent  as  in 
some  measure  to  shoot  past  the  opening  into  a  large 
basin  directly  in  front  of  it,  where  it  acquires  that 
rotatory  motion  which  has  given  it  the  name  of  the 
whirlpool.  The  greater  part  of  the  water  collected 
in  this  eddy,  must  pass  off  underneath,  as  is  evi- 
dent from  the  depression  in  the  middle  of  the  cir- 
cle, which  has  the  appearance  of  water  in  a  huge 
funnel.  Ti  ees  of  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  with 
a  great  part  of  their  branches,  are  here  frequently 
seen  spinning  round,  until,  by  constant  friction, 
or  coming  in  contact  with  each  other,  they  are  at 
length  broken  to  pieces.  Sometimes  they  are 
drawn  under  and  disappear  for  some  minutes,  when 
they  again  show  themselves  above  the  surface,  and 
continue  the  same  motion  as  before ;  while  at 
other  times  they  disappear  altogether.  The  whole 
of  this  river,  from  the  foot  of  the  falls  to  near 
Lewis  Town,  is  in  a  state  of  the  most  violent  agita- 
tion, dashing  its  foaming  billows  ten  or  twelve  feet 
high,  which,  when  viewed  from  its  lofty  banks  of 
solid  rock,  about  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  give 
it  more  the  appearance  of  a  river  of  milk  than  of 
Avater. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  are  certainly  the  greatest 
natural  curiosity  that  I  have  ever  seen.  I  have 
read  different  accounts,  and  examined  many  en- 
gi-avings  and  puintirigs,  but  all  fall  so  far  short  of 


'"? 


63 

reality  that  the  resemblance  is  not  even  as  the  sha 
dow  ,o  the  substance.     Indeed  .  do  not  thinT  ,t 
■n  the  power  of  either  the  pen  or  the  pencil  to  do 
just.ce  to  a  subject  so  sublime  as  this 

From  what  1  have  just  said,  I  would  gladly 
™  myself  of  an  excuse  for  passing  over  the'suT 

ot  of  ttT  ',  "r"  *"' """'"  ""  »  —  - 
one  of  the  articles  of  our  treaty,  I  find  myself  un- 
der the  necessity  of  sending  you  sometJr.g. 

Figure  to  yourself  the  first  collection  of  these 
wate...  at  a  distance  of  upw.Ms  of  two  thou^nd 
m,les,  passmg  through  the  Lake  of  the  Woods 
Ramy  Lake    and  seveml  smaller,  and  at  Ch 
ftl hng  .nto  Lake  Superior,  ti,e  Meditern,neZf 

hundred  miles  m  circumference,  and  sunnlied 
by  more  than  thirty  considerabk  rivers  t^m 
thence  contmutng  its  cou^e   into   Lake  Hurr 

2eL  The  "■""  '"  ^'^™™f---  -»-: 
meetmg  the  immense  collection  of  waters  flow 

ng  from  the  south  west  through  L  ,ke  Michigal 
»t.ll  larger  than  Lake  Huron,  i,  continue  i"s 
eourse  through  Lake  St.  Clair  into  Lake  Er 
which  IS  also  nearly  eight  hundred  miles  in  circuit  • 
from  thence,  with  a  rapid  current,  passing  do™ 
fte  Niagara  River  to  the  frontier  of  "what  may  b" 
ealled  the  upper  coumry,  with  astonishing  1„ 
deur,  ,,  there  dsicharges  this  immense  ujy  "f 
'rater  down  a  peq^endicular  precipice  of  nearly 


t 


i  ■ 


\ 


'\ 


.  il 


/£d  tt .  /r^'  ^  /  ^°  hundred  feet,  which  forms  the  cdebrated  cata- 
V--'    Hract  of  Niagara. 
,  \  1'hc  Canada  shore  aJFords  the  most  satisfactory 

I  view  of  these  fells,  as  the  greatest  body  of  water 

descends  upon  that  side.     The  American,  how- 
ever, is  not  wkhout  its  peculiar  beauiies. 

That  part  of  the  Canada  shore,  which  presents 
a  full  view  of  the  fall's,  is  what  is  called  the  Table 
Rock,  which  is  the  nearest  point  of  approach  widi 
safety,  as  it  is  just  upon  the  margin  of  the  great 
sheet  of  falling  water.  From  this  spot  you  have 
a  fiair  view  of  thdVhole  fall,  rushing  with  such  in- 
credible swiftness   over  the  precipice  to  the  un- 

*  fathomable  abyss  beneath,  that,  when  you  first  fix 

your  eye  upon  the  descending  mass,  you  instinctive- 
ly make  an  inv61untary  retreat  of  a  step  or  two,  as 
if  fearful  of  being  overwhelmed  in  the  vast  descent 
of  waters.  Immediately  before  you  lies  Goat 
Island,  which  divides  the  falls,  and  does  not  appear 
to  the  eye  mwe  than  a  stone's  throw;  but,  on 
making  the  trial,  it  affords  much  surprise  to  find 
that,  instead  of  approaching  near  the  island,  it  falls 
almost  as  it  were  under  your  feet,  not  even  reach- 
iiiig  to  the  margin  or  edge  of  the  waters  below.  I 
was  likewise  much  disappointed  to  find  the  noise 
far  less  than  I  had  anticipated ;  and,  upon  men- 
tioning the  circumstance  to  our  guide,  lie  inform- 
ed nie  that  I  would  perceive  the  diflference  after 
having  visited  them  from  below. 
1 


I A  ^  ■ 


x"^ 


65 

After  having  satisfied  ourselves  with  the  prcseM 
view  of  these  falls,  and  conformed  to  the  cu.lom 
of  the  place,   by  engraving  our  names  on  a  rock, 
we  proceeded  to  the  place  leading  to  the  bottom, 
for  which  purpose  I  had  understood  there  was  a 
convenient  ladder ;  but,  upon  examination,  found 
It  so  old  and  crazy  as   almost  to  make  me  give 
over  the  attempt.     You  will  perhaps  excuse  my 
tirn.d,ty,^when  you  are  informed  that  this  ladder, 
vvhich  is  eighty  feet  in  length,  is  placed  in  a  perpen- 
dicular  direction  over  sharp  and  cragged  rocks;  and 
Its  bcmg  spli<    1  and  bound  together  in  several 
P  aces  with  grape  vines,  did  not  tend  to  lessen  the 
111   opinion  I    had   already  conceived  respecting 
its  sufficiency.  However,  there  was  no  choice ;  our 
guide,  being  accustomed  to  the  descent,  had  al. 
ready  disappeared.     I  endeavoured  to  prevail  upon 
Mr.  I,,  to  lead  the  way,  but  to  no  purpose ;  «  he 
did  not  think  it  would  pay  for  the  trouble  ;  and 
I'  as  for  his  part,  he  had  seen  as  much  as  he  cared 
tor.  '    I  was  at  length  under  the  necessity'  of  de- 
scending alone,  and  had  already  gone  about  half  the' 
vvay,  when  I  found  the  poor  ladder,  by^  some  acci- 
dent or  other,  had  lost  four  of  its  rounds ;  this  cir- 
cumstance,  added  to  its  constant  tremulous  motion 
did  not  render  my  situation  a  whit  more  plea- 
sing ;  so  making  one  more  effort  to  reach  the  yet 
distant    step,  and  finding  it  impossible,   withom 
sliding  down  the  side  of  the  ladder,  and  recollect- 
mg  at  die  same  moment  tliat   I  could  not  slide 

VOL.  I.  , 


/ 


■t  >■ 


•  } 


\ 


> 


i\ 


IW0^  ■4 


66 


«»f, 


up  again,  I  determined  to  ascend,  and  wait  until  I 
could  provide  a  rope  to  support  myself  with.  Ha- 
ving at  length  procured  one  from  a  neighbouring 
house,  I  descended,  without  much  difficulty,  to 
the  bottom  of  the  ladder.  The  remaining  height 
is  comparatively  easy  ;  but,  winding  over  sharp  and 
rugged  fragments  of  rocks,  it  requires  some  cau- 
tion and  a  sure  foot  to  avoid  a  fall,  which,  proba- 
bly,  would  be  rttended  with  some  serious  acci- 
dent. 

This,  ladder  is  placed  about  half  a  mile  below 
the  falls,  the  whole  c"  which  distance,  after  de- 
scending the  ladder,  you  have  to  walk  over  sharp 
pointed  fragments  of  rocks,  which  occasionally 
break  off  from  the  projecting  precipices  above,  par- 
ticularly towards  spring,  when  the  thaws  com- 
mence. Our  guide  pointed  out  to  us  a  huge  mass 
which  had  fallen  since  he  was  here  last,  which  was 
very  evident,  as  the  fresh  earth  and  leaves  still  ad- 
hered to  the  fragments  in  many  places.  In  ap- 
proaching the  falls  from  these  lower  regions,  you 
soon  perceive  the  vast  difference  between  the  noise 
here  and  above  ;  and  although  it  may  l^e  said  that 
you  sec  the  falls  from  above,  yet  it  certainly  is  be- 
low where  you  hear  them.  From  above  you  indeed 
hear  a  great  roaring  noise,  yet  it  has  the  resemblance 
of  being  at  some  considerable  distance  ;  but,  when 
once  you  approach  from  below,  your  ears  seem 
gradually  to  lose  all  sense  oi  hearing,  and  for  some 
minutes  you  are  doubtful  whether  you  really  pos-- 
sess  that  faculty  or  not.     The  first  involuntary  mo- 


nous  acci- 


67 

tion  of  the  eye,  after  taking  a  ha&ty  view  of  the 
falling  sheet,  and  the  violent  agitation  of  the  re- 
bounding  waters,  as  you  approach  the  falls,  is  to 
trace  the  excavated  and  projecting  point  of  the 
Table  Rock,  upon  which  you  stood  above.     You 
halt— your  eye  roves  wildly  over  the  scene  be- 
fore  you—your  hair  becomes  erect,  and  a  sudden 
chill  seems  to  pervade  the  whole  body,  when  you 
reflect  that  your  very  existence  should,  even  for 
a   moment,   have  rested  upon  the  slender  shell 
of  what  now  appears  to  be  a  ^rm6/m^  excavated 
rock,  threatening  almost  instantaneous  precipitation 
into  the  dreadful  abyss  below !     Such  were  the 
impressions  made  upon  my  mind  at  the  moment; 
and,  even  now,  the  recital  of  them  seems  almost  to 
realize  the  imaginary  danger. 

I  was  now  at  the  bottom  of  the  falls,  and  deter, 
mined  minutely  to  examine  the  truth  of  all  that  I  had 
read  and  heard  respecting  them ;  amongst  other 
thmgs  was  the  practicability  of  passing  « if  not 
"  through,  at  least  to  some  considerable  distance 
"  between,  the  falling  sheet  and  the  rocks."    The 
facility  of  doing  this,  from  the  various  descrip- 
tions  I  had  read,  as  likewise  from  die  assertion  of 
several  gentlemen  who  had  made  the  experiment, 
had  so  for  prepossessed  my  mind  i.n  favour  of  its 
practicability,   that  the   attempt   had  nearly  cost 
me  my  life.     Being  full  of  this  assurance  I  ad- 
vanced  behind  the  fall,  or  rather  behind  the  mar- 
gin  of  the  falling  mass,  when,  on  a  sudden,  I  found 
a  difficulty  of  respiration.     The  attack  was  slight, 


68 


I  -f 


but  unexpected.  I  retreated  a  step  or  two,  but 
finally  persuaded  myself  it  was  nothing  more  .than 
an  involuntary  precaution,  which  my  timidity  had 
inspired.  I  accordingly  advanced,  but  cautiously, 
to  the  same  spot,  where  I  halted  for  a  moment, 
and  found  my  respiration  easy,  which  again  con- 
vinced me  that  I  was  mistaken.  I  therefore  mo- 
ved slowly  forwardj  and  had,  as  near  as  I  can  re- 
collect, advanced  three  or  four  steps,  when  I  was 
a  second  time  attacked  so  severely  as  nearly  to 
deprive  me  of  my  senses.  I  retreated  a  few  paces, 
and,  lest  I  should  become  giddy,  and  fall  into  the 
abyss  beneath,  set  myself  down  on  the  wet  rock, 
where,  in  a  few  seconds,  I  discovered  I  had  lost 
my  hat,  which  I  perceived  lying  about  five  or  six 
paces  from  me.  One  moment's  reflection,  how- 
ever, convinced  me  of  the  imprudence  of  a  third 
attempt ;  I  therefore  retreated  a  few  steps  more  in 
order  to  make  my  future  experiments  with  less 
personal  danger. 

Finding  myself,  therefore,  in  a  place  of  security, 
I  took  up  a  stone  weighing  one  or  two  pounds 
and  threw  it  with  all  my  strength  between  the 
sheet  of  falling  water  and  the  rocks;  it  fell 
about  forty  feet  from  where  I  stood,  as  if  it  had 
there  met  something  to  oppose  its  fardier  pro- 
gress. I  repeated  the  experiment  above  a  dozen 
times,  and  always  found  the  same  result.  Larger 
stones  I  could  cast  in  any  other  direction  to  a  distance 
of  eighty  and  one  hundred  feet ;  but  immediately 
behind  the  fiills,  about  thirty  or  forty  feet,  was  the 


79 


greatest  distance  I  could  cast  one,  beyond  the 
place  I  had  advanced ;  from  whence  I  conclude 
that  the  co.npression  of  air  between  the  falls  and 
rocks  is  so  great  that  ih  living  creature  ever  has, 
or  ever  can  pass  betwixt  them.     It  is  impossi- 
ble  for  me  to  describe  to  you   accurately   how 
I  felt  when  I  was  attacked ;  for,  to  confess  the 
truth,  I  was  too  much  frightened  at  the  moment 
to  form  any  idea  not  immediately  connected  with 
my   own  preservation.     I  am   wholly   at  a  loss 
whether   or   not  it  wasjn  reality  a  difficulty  of 
breathing  which  prevented  my  advancing     The 
strongest  impression  upon  my'mind  is,  that  I  felt 
something^ke  a  blow  in  my  face,  without,  how- 
ever,  leaving  any  marks  of  violence ;  but  how  or 
in  what  manner  I  lost  my  hat  I  was  not  sensible, 
but  believe  it  must  have  been  by  a  sudden  blast 
of  wind.     Immediately  below  the  falls  are  several 
small  eddies,  where  there  is  excellent  fishing ;  but 
tlie  difficulty  of  ascending  and  descending  is  too 
great  to  compensate  an  ordinary   sportsman.     I 
should  not,  however,  have  neglected  this  oppo'rtu- 
nity  had  I  been  provided  with  the  necessary  ap. 
paratus  ;  but,  as  that  happened  not  to  be  the  case 
I  contented  myself  with  clambering  over  the  rockl 
along  tile  shore,  frequently  amusing  myself  with 
the  many  curious  pieces  of  timber  found  hereaiid 
there,  cast  up  by  a  higher  water,  and  deposited  as  it 
were  for  samples  of  the  forms  and  varieties  which 
are  continually  ground  in  the  water  xvorfa  of  Nia- 
gara. 


!'•* 


)      ' 


I 


■I 


^^1 


s  - 


70 


l\-J. 


Having  spent  the  greatest  part  of  the  day  in  ex- 
amining this  wild  and  delightful  scene,  we  set 
down  upon  an  isolated  rock  and  refreshed  our- 
selves with  a  bottle  of  wine  and  some  crackers 
and  cheese ;  after  which  we  took  our  course  to- 
wards the  ladder,  and,  by  the  time  we  reached 
it,  the  wine  had  operated  so  powerfully  as  to 
render  the  use  of  the  rope  for  ascending  en- 
tirely unnecessary.  Indeed,  had  there  not  been  a 
sing] »  round  in  the  ladder,  I  believe  we  should 
all  have  ascended  with  less  difficulty  than  we  came 
down. 

But  to  proceed  :  The  current  of  the  Niagara 
Rivei  begins  to  grow  very  strong  immediately  be- 
low  Chippaway  village,  which  is  something  more 
than  two  miles  above  the  falls  ;  so  that,  in  order  to 
pass  over  in  safety,  it  is  necessary  to  ascend  along 
the  shore  for  nearly  a  mile  before  you  attempt  to 
cross.  For  two  miles  above  the  falls,  on  the  Ca- 
nada shore,  no  attempt  is  ever  made  to  cross  in 
any  kind  of  craft.  The  firsi  mile,  particularly,  ex- 
hibits one  continued  scene  of  raging  and  foaming 
billou  ,  dashing  and  rebounding  against  hidden 
and  projecting  rock^.  The  descent  of  this  rapid 
is  probably  not  less  than  one  hundred  feet  within 
the  last  mile  ;  and  the  vast  body  of  water  rushing 
over  its  rugged  and  broken  bottom,  exhibits  a 
scene  of  noise  and  confusion  surpassed  only  by 
the  fall  itself. 

The  following  story  I  had  heard  long  before  my 
arrival  at  this  place ;  yet,  as  it  was  with  considera- 


'4 


71 

ble  exaggerations,  I  now  relate  it  simply  as  it  was 
told  me  here :    "  An  Indian  having  procured  a 
"  bottle  of  rum,  refused  to  indulge  his  amiable 
"  squaw  with  such  frequent  and  copious  draughts 
"  from  it  as  he  did  himself.     This  so  offended  the 
"  old  lady,  that  when  she  found  him  at  last  over- 
ly come  with  the  fumes  of  his  bottle,  and  that  he 
"  had  laid  himself  down  in  his  canoe  to  slumber  a 
*'  little,  she  gendy  pushed  the  canoe   from  the 
"  shore,  which,  in  a  few  minutes,  was  carried  by 
"  the  suction  into  the  breakers,  where  the  noise 
"  and  commotion  operated  so  powerfully  upon  the 
"  poor  wretch  as  to  awake  him  to  a  sense  of  his 
"  irretrievable  danger.     For  a  minute  he  tried  the 
"  strength  of  his  arm  and  paddle,  but  finding  his 
"  last  moments  near,  he  seized  the  bottle  of  rum, 
"  raised  it  to  his  mouth,  and  in  that  posture  was 
"  hurled  into  the  dreadful  abyss  below." 

They  likewise  relate  another  story  of  a  most 
mu-aculous  escape  of  a  Canadian  boat,  with  ten  or 
twelve  persons  on  board,  that  came  very  near  go- 
ing over  the  falls.  In  order  to  understand  it  perfectly 
you  must  first  be  informed,  that  a  company  have 
erected  a  set  of  mills  on  the  edge  of  these  upper 
rapids,  on  the  British  side,  where  the  stream  is  too 
violent  to  permit  any  thing  like  a  regular  dam  or 
raceway  to  be  built;  here  they  have  thrown  in 
some  rocks,  which,  combined  with  others  in  their 
natural  situation,  turn  an  abundant  supply  of  wa- 
ter around  a  small  bend,  for  the  use  of  the  mill. 


/ 


^.- 


»^f.«R..-»  ■*i':i»-..„'iii(Sfs 


72 


ti 


*i 


It  appears  there  was  a  Canadian  boat  which 
"  had  entered  the  river  after  a  hard  and  laborious 
"  day's  work  on  Lake  Erie.  All  hands  being 
"  much  fatigued,  and  having  the  advantage  of  a 
"  good  current  and  smooth  water,  they  set  one  to 
"  watch,  while  the  remainder  laid  themselves  down 
"  to  sleep.  It  happened,  however,  that  the  watch- 
"  man  likewise  fell  asleep  ;  and,  as  the  distance  was 

but  fifteen  miles,  they  soon  drifted  down  to  the 
"  rapids,  where  the  noise  and  motion  of  the  boat 
*'  first  awaked  them  to  a  sense  of  their  critical  si- 
"  tuation.  All  is  lost  they  cried  ;  and  every 
"  man  fell  down  on  his  knees  to  tell  his  beads  or 
♦'  say  a  prayer,  when  the  captain  resolutely  com- 
"  manded  them  to  man  their  oars  and  pull  for 
"  their  lives.  They  obeyed  him ;  and,  at  the 
"  very  moment  when  they  expected  to  be  hurled 
"  into  the  dreadful  abyss,  the  boat  struck  a-mid- 
"  ships  upon  the  very  rocks  just  mentioned,  and 
"  broke  in  two ;  the  stern  part  in  an  instant  was 
"  precipitated  over  the  falls,  while  the  fore  part, 
"  with  all  the  men,  was  carried  down  the  mill 
"  race,  by  which  means  they  were  saved." 

While  yet  at  a  very  great  distance,  you  will 
always  observe  a  volume  of  clouds  hoA'ering  over 
the  falls ;  nor  is  there  any  exception  e^'en  in  the 
clearest  and  brightest  day ;  the  only  perceivalile 
difterence  is  in  their  height  and  colour.  In  a  clear 
bright  day  they  appear  very  high  and  white,  while, 
on  the  tontiar}',  in  heavy,  cloudy  weather,  they 
1 

...     -  /r"  -  . 


73 

^nk  lower  and  acquire  a  smoky  appearance. 
Thes  clouds  proceed  from  the  vapour  arising 
from  the  spray  formed  by  the  dashing  of  the  wa 

Zljf"    .'      '"^  °^  '°'°"^  ^d  ^^"^tion  of 

and  density  of  the  atmosphe,^.     The  farmers  set- 
tled immediately  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  falls 
informed  me  that  this  spray  causes  the  deadi  of  a 
great  part  of  their  cattle  during  the  cold  winters; 
as  the  continued  fall  of  the  dew  and  vapour  con- 
stantly  covers  them  with   a  coat  of  ice,  which 
brings  on  a  disease  that  carries  them  off  in    a 
short  time. 

I  purpose  going  over  to  the  American  side  to- 
morrow from  whence  I  intend  to  take  a  further 
v^vv  and  examination  of  the  falls,  and  shall  not 
lail  to  make  you  acquainted   with  eveiy  thing  I 
find  worth  noticing.     I  intended,  before  I  closed 
this,  to  have  given  you  some  account  of  the  Chin 
paway  village  but   as  it  is  already  of  an  uni  Jai 
ength,  and  I  shall  probably  tarry  a   few   days 
longer  m  this  countiy,  and  have  another  opportu- 
nity of  writing,  for  the  present  farewell. 

Yours, 


•!     I 


C.  S. 


VOL.  I. 


74 


LETTER  VII. 


Fort  Schlosseft  Niagara  River^  August  8,  1801 
Dear  Friend, 


'I 


CHIPPAWAY  ViUage,  from  which  I  wotc 
my  last,  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  Chippaway 
River,  and  connected  by  a  good  wooden  bridge. 
This  viUage,  which  is  built  upon  the  site  of  an 
old  town  of  the  Chippaway  nation,  contains  only 
about  twehty  houses.  It  has  a  garrison  of  twenty- 
eight  men,  and  some  slight  fortifications.  The 
river  is  navigable  for  about  thirty  miles  for  light 
craft  ;  and  towards  the  head  waters  are  settled  a 
few  of  the  Chippav/ay  nation.  The  Chippaway  is 
the  blackest  and  most  stagnant  water  of  any 
living  stream  I  have  ever  seen,  in  colour  and  flu- 
idity strongly  resembling  West  India  molasses ;  it 
falls  into  the  Niagara  about  two  and  a  half  miles 
above  the  falls.  This  pure  ?nd  beautiful  river,  as 
if  conscious  of  the  putrid  and  noxious  qualities  of 
the  Chippaway,  refuses  to  intermix  with  her  foul 
stieam,  but  forces  her  to  roll  her  thick  and  turbid 
waters  along  the  Canada  shore,  until,  arriving  at 
a  bend  of  the  river,  they  go  off  to  supply  the  mills 
before  mentioned. 


75 


Having  given  you  all  the  information  I  have 
been  able  to  collect  respecting  this  town,  I  shall 
now  proceed  to  amuse  you  with  the  remarks 
and  observations  resulting  from  my  view  of  the 
falls  on  this  side  of  the  river. 

When  you  arc  at  Fort  Schlosseryou  have  about 
one  mile  to  walk  to  the  pitch  of  the  falls,  the 
greater  part  of  which  distance  is  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  where  you  have  an  occasional  peep  at 
the  rapids  above.     About  a  i^uarter  of  a  mile  be- 
fore you  arrive  at  the  falls  you  pass  an  exceUent 
set   of  mills,  erected  by  Porter,  Barton  8c  Co. 
The  situation  of  these  mills  is  so  very  eligible,  na- 
ture having  prepared  everj-  thing,  that  there  re- 
mained  little  else  to  do   but  to  build  them.     As 
you  proceed.  Goat  Island,  which  divides  the  falls, 
is  seen  at  no  great  distance  on  your  left ;  the  river 
between  is  full  of  rocks,  and  here  and  diere  you 
perceive  considerable  lodges  of  drift  wood,  seem- 
ingly waiting  for  a  rise  of  the  river  in  order  to 
launch  themselves  over  the  falls. 

The  margin  of  the  river  on  this  side  is  much 
obstructed  with  trees  and  bushes,  so  that  it  re-  * 
quires  some  labour  to  clear  away  a  space  suffi- 
ciently large  to  obtain  a  full  view  of  the  falls.  You 
may  approach  equally  as  near  to  die  fallmg  sheet 
on  this  as  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river ;  and, 
by  taking  a  proper  station,  in  the  morning  of  a 
clear  day,  upon  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  you  will 
behold  beneath  your   feet  a  beautiful  and  varie- 


^<««faMj«I-^.-4>e^-> 


J 


■V 


78 


Ml 


gated  rainbow,  stretching  from  the  American  to 
the  Canada  shore,  and  perpetually  rolling,  as  if  it 
intjcnded  to  confound  all  its  bright  and  glorious 
colours  into  one  confused  mass^  while  each  still  re- 
mains separate  and  distinct.  -        , 
You  may,  likewise,  have  a  very  handsome  view 
not  only  of  the  falls,  but  also  of  the  river  both 
above  and  below,  by  climbing  sixty  or  seventy 
feet  up  a  sturdy  old  oak,  which  stands  on  the  mar- 
gin of  the  precipice,  a  small  distance  below  the 
falls,  and  near  the  banks  of  the  river. 

We  next  went  to  examine  the  hole  which  leads 
to  the  lower  regions  on  this  side  of  the  river.  The 
appearance  of  it  was  so  truly  frightful  that  I  relin- 
quished the  design  I  liad  formed  of  descending  it, 
and  returned  to  my  lodgings.  Being  assured,  how- 
ever, the  next  day,  that  the  appearance  ^vas  more 
dreadful  than  the  reidity,  and  that  any  person  not 
subject  to  giddiness,  who  could  depend  upon  the 
strength  of  his  arms  in  sustaining  the  weight  of 
his  body  occasionally,    might  descend  in  perfect 
safety,  I  determined  to  make  the  attempt.     Pro- 
curing a  guide  and  some  ropes,  I  proceeded  to  the 
hole,  which  was  not  less  than   two  hundred  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  river.     The  guide,  having 
made  a  rope  fast  to  a  tree,  soon  disappeared  under 
the  projecting  rock,  while  he  repeatedly  called  on 
me  to  follow.     Ashamed  at  length  of  my  o\vn  ti- 
midity,  I   obeyed,    and,   after  a   thousiind   hair- 
breadth escapes,  arrived  safely  at  the  bottom.         « 


■%-;ff*.'    i   J:^A.^i•i.i, 


77 

In  making  the  descent  on  this  side,  I  had  o-ca-' 
sion  to  remark,  as  on  the  other,  the  vast  difference 
in  the  noise  heard  from  above  and  below.  Whether 
it  was  owing  to  the  current  of  air  setting  over  on 
this  side,  or  some  other  cause,  I  know  not ;  but 
certainly  the  thundering  roar  of  the  waters  was 
much  greater  Mn  on  the  other.     The  dread  of 
ialling  wb.i.  descending  prevented  my  noticing 
the  increased  ratio  of  the  noise;  but  I  no  soon^ 
found  myself  at  the  bottom,  than  the  mountains 
appeared  to  tremble  over  my  head,  and  the  rocks 
seemed  to  move  under  my  feet ;  and,  indeed,  it  is 
^ome  time  before  you  can  free  yourself  from  these 
sensations. 

You  may  advance  so  near  to  the  fall  on  this 
side  as  to  wash  your  hands  in  the  falling  water- 
but  here,  as  on  the  other  side,  in  a  few  minutes 
you  are  quite  wet  to  the  skin.   This  is  owing  to  the 
abundance  of  vaix)ur  which  is  continually  falling- 
ior,  m  many  places,  the  spray  rebounds  from  the 
rocks  with  so  much  violence  as  to  prevent  a  nearer 
approach;  and  the  constant  humidity  has  covered 
the  rocks  below  the  falls  with  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  grass  of  tliree  feet  in  length,  amongst  which  are 
lound  thousands  of  young  eels. 

Immediately  below  the  flills  is  a  small  space  in 
the  river,  over  which  a  boat  might  cross  with 
the  greatest  safety,  being  the  onlv  place  where 
such  a  passage  is  practicable  betwee;!  the  falls  and 
Queen's  Town.   The  cause  I  take  to  be  this  •  the 


'/ 


78 


immense  column  of  water  is  hurled  into  the  un- 
fathomable gulph  to  agreatdepth  immediately  aiort' 
this  .|X)t,  and,  by  its  own  reaction,  breaks  out  wiUi 
inconceivable  fury  below ;  it  causes  a  kind  of  calm 
eddies  over  the  surface  of  the  intermediate  space 
alluded  to,  which,  although  it  apjiears  white  from 
the  raging  of  the  waters  underneath,  yet,  compara- 
tively, may  be  considered  as  still  as  a  mill-pond. 
Wliat  firut  led  me  to  this  reflection  was  the  ma- 
iiojuvres  of  some  wild  ducks,  which  I  observed 
swimming  backwards  and  forwards  across  this 
space,  and  who  carefully  avoided  every  place 
which  I  should  liave  thought  dangerous  for  a  boat. 
Could  I  have  obtained  a  canoe  or  sk^ff,  I  should 
not  have  h^itated  a  moment  about  trying  the  ex- 
periment. There  are  considerable  quantities  of 
lish,  deer  and  other  animal  bones  found  along 
this  shore,  being,  as  I  suppose,  the  remains  of  such 
as  have  be-n  crushed  in  the  falls.  It  is  the  com- 
mon opinion,  however,  that  the  sir  ^iller  fish  gene- 
rally  escape  unhuit. 

After  having  spent  the  whole  morning  in  these 
lower  regions,  we  made  our  ascent  once  more  to 
the  upper ;  and  I  do  not  know  that  I  ever  felt 
more  satisfaction  than  when  I  found  myself  safely 
landed  upon  terra  firnia. 

I  am  much  surprised  that  a  place  so  celebra- 
ted as  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  which  is  visited 
by  so  miuiy  travellers,  amongst  whom  aie  no  in- 
considerable number  of  ladies,  should  not  yet"  have 


induced  some  enterprising  person  to  erect  a  con- 
venient liouse  on  this  side  of  the  river  for  their  ac 
commodiUion,  as  likewise  a  proper  sti\irs  for  de- 
sccnding  to  the  bottom  of  the  falls.     Twenty.five 
doUars  would  defray  the  expense  of  a  convenient 
stair.ladder,  with  hand-rails ;  and  surely  no  person, 
after  travelling  from  two  hundred  to  one  thousand 
miles  to  view  the  falls,  viuld  hesitate  to  pay  one, 
or  even  five  dollars,  for  r  safe  and  easy  conveyance 
to  the  bottom.     Juc'  -^  P.  who  owns  the  lands  ad- 
joining  the  falls  on  this  side  of  the  river,  informed 
me  he  should,  as  soon  as  possible,  build  a  house 
near  the  best  view  of  the  falls,  and  appoint  some 
proper  person  to  keep  a  genteel  tavern  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  curious.      He   will   like, 
wise  erect  a  stairs,  sufficiently  safe  and  easy  for 
ladies  to  descend  to  the  foot  of  the  falls.     When 
these  conveniences  are  completed,  as  I  trust  they 
soon  will  be,  I  have  no  doubt  but  they  will  attract 
the  frequent  and  numerous  visits  of  my  fair  coun- 
try  women,  whose  laudable  curiosity  has  already 
been  so  great  as  to  induce  a  very  considerable 
number  even  to  risk  the  present  inconveniences, 
rather  than  not  behold  this  wonder  of  the  worid. 
The  perpendicular  height  of  tlie  falls  on  this  shore 
is  one  liundred  and  sixty-four  feet,  and  on  the  Ca- 
n;\dy   i-r,i    one  hui  f!rjd  and  forty-three. 

liie  river,  at  Fort  Schlcsser,  is  two  and  a  half 
miles  wide,  and,  for  one  mile  above  the  falls,  alto- 
gether  impassable.     Goat  Island,  which  divides 


F-' 


80 


10 


'A 


(( 


the  falls,  contains  about  eighteen  or  tv/enty  acres  of 
land,  and  is  situated  nearest  the  American  shore. 
This  island  has  generally  been  reputed  never  to  have 
been  visited  by  any  human  being,  excepting,  as 
they  relate,  «  by  a  couple  of  Indians,  who,  many 
"  years   ago,    were    thrown,    with    their   canoe, 
"  upon  it,  and,  after  two  or  three  days,  spent  in  se- 
"  veral  vain  attempts  to  recover  the  main  land, 
"  were  discovered  by  some  of  their  nation.  They, 
"  at   length,    by  making  long  bark  ropes,   and 
"  carrying  them  a  coi-.iderablc  distance  up  the 
"  stream,  succeeded  in  floating  one  end  against  the 
"  island,  by  which  means  they  were  enabled  to 
"  rescue  the  poor  wretches  from  certain  death." 
It  has  always  been  considered  impossible  for  any 
person  ever  to  get  off  after  having  landed  on  the 
island.  This  notion  is  now  found  to  'be  erroneous ; 
and  we  are  indebted  to  an  accident  for  the  discovery 
of  a  safe  and  easy  passage  to  the  island,  provided 
you  have  a  pilot  who  has  been  there  before.     It 
seems  "  a  man,  in  passing  from  Chippaway  to 
"  Fort  Schlosser  in  a  canoe,  depended  so  much 
"  upon  his  own  skill  and  activity  in  managing  his 
"  craft,  that  he  attempted  to  cross  over  without 
"  going  along  the  shore  a  sufficient  distance  up  the 
"  stream.     The  consequence  was,  that  he  would 
"  have  bceii  precipitated  from  the  height,  had  he 
"  not   accidentally   struck  the  bottom   with    his 
"  paddle,  just  as  the  stream, had  carried  him  in  a 
1 


81 

"  direct  line  with  the  upper  end  of  this  island, 
"  where,  jumping  out,  he  found  he  had  struck 
"  upon  a  narrow  sand  bar  a'uout  one  rod  wide, 
"  and  never  before  discovered.     He  pursued  the 
"  whole  length  of  the  bar  downward,  and  found 
"  it  approached  to  within  fifteen  rods  of  the  up- 
"  per  end  of  Goat  Island,  where  the  water  was 
"  very  deep  and  the  curren:  strong,  but  not  impass- 
"  able.     He  crossed  this  little  strait,  and  was  tlie 
"  first  man,  excepting  the  two  Indians  before  men^ 
"  tioned,  ever  known  to  have  landed  and  returned 
"  from  this  island."     I  made  some  inquiry  after 
this   man,  but  found  he  was  forgotten;  and,  as 
the  general  opinion  is  that  he  was  drunk  when 
he  stumbled  on  this  discovery,  it  is  of  no  great 
consequence  that  you  should  know  who  he  was. 
From  the  situation  of  the  island  in  the  middle  of 
the.  falls^  I  was  strongly  tempted  to  pay  it  a  visit ; 
and  finding  a  person  who  had  been  there  before,  I 
engaged  him  to  provide  a  canoe,  and  the  next 
morning,  after  breakfast,  we  set  out  on  our  expe- 
dition.    In  less  than  half  an  hour  we  were  safely 
landed  upon  the  island.      Having  passed  to  the 
extremity  of  it,  I  suddenly  found  myself  trans- 
ported   as  it  were  to  the  centre   of  the   grand 
confusion  around  me ;  and,  after  cautiously  ad- 
vancing to  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  and  obser- 
ving the  firm  and  solid  foundation  upon  which  I 

VOL.  I.  L  .'t 


h 


i    i 


W0 


•82 


;V       ii 


Ifl 


II H 


1 


►  -I        \ 


stood,  I  experienced  a  degree  of^  security  not  to  be 
felt  in  any  other  situation  when  viewing  the  falls. 
At  no  great  distance,  on  my  left,  I  recognised 
the  hollow  projectmg  Table  Rock,  upon  which  I 
had  lately  stood ;  while,  on  my  right,  I  traced  from 
rock  to  rock,  under  a  similar  projection,  my  last 
descent  to  the  lower  regions. 

The  falls  are  making  daily  inroads  on  this 
island,  as  well  as  on  the  general  foundation  of 
the  river;  for,  while  standing  here,  we  heard 
a  hollow  rumbling  noise,  which,  at  one  mo- 
ment, -eemed  to  die  away,  then  suddenly  to  re- 
vive again.  I  was,  for  some  time,  entirely  at  a 
loss  to  account  for  so  strange  an  occurrence ;  at 
length,  as  I  had  turned  my  face  towards  the  sound, 
I  perceived  a  large  black  rock  now  and  then 
showing  itself  amongst  the  foaming  billows, 
which  were  hurling  it  over  a  smooth  rocky 
bottom,  on  its  way  to  the  falls. 

When  last  on  the  Canada  shore,  I  saw  an  old 
Indian  who  spoke  tolerably  good  English,  and  had 
a  long  chat  with  him  respecting  the  foils.  He  in- 
formed me,  that,  when  he  was  a  younng  warrior, 
he  was  amongst  those  who  gav^  Braddock  his  fa- 
mous defeat ;  that  at  that  time  there  wtfs  a  small 
rocky  island  that  laid  upon  the  very  edge  of  the 
Ms,  at  no  great  distance  from  Goat  Island,  and 
Avhich  was  very  remarkable  for  having  two  trees 
pr%;cting  over  the  falls.     It  is  reasonable  to  be- 


^,-*Wn. 


lieve  that  this  account  is  not  untrue,  as  eight  or 
ten  large  rocks,  lying  very  near  the  edge  of  the 
falls,  are  still  perceptible,  and  which,  in  all  proba- 
bility^  are  the  last  fragments  of  the  little  island  he 
alluded  to.  These  would  long  since  have  been 
torn  from  their  foundations,  did  not  their  situation 
protect  them  from  the  force  of  the  main  current. 

From  the  great  body  of  water  passing  off  on  the 
Canada  shore,  tlie  rocks,  or  foundation  of  the  falls, 
are  subject  to  greater  inroads  tliere,  than  any  other 
part.  The  falls,  from  this  spot,  have  something 
of  the  form  of  an  irregular  horse-shoe,  with  one 
side  of  the  curve  longer  than  the  other ;  the  long- 
est  being  on  the  American  shore.  This  is  owing 
to  its  wearing  away  much  faster  on  the  opposite 
shore. 

We  found  some  juniper  berries  on  this  island, 
which  were  the  largest  I  have  ever  seen  in  the 
State  of  New- York.  After  having  spent  the. whole 
morning  upon  this  delightful  and  romantic  spot, 
we  left  the  island,  and,  by  pursuing  the  same 
course,  returned  in  stifety  to  our  lodgings,  well 
satisfied  with  tlie  adventures  of  the  day. 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


r 


J 


84 


I      I 


LETTER  VIII. 

Upper  Canada,  Qtteen^s  Town,  August  11,  1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

NO  opportunity  of  a  passage  across  Lake  Erie 
liaving  yet  offered,  I  find  myself  detained  some 
days  longer  in  this  quarter  than  I  expected.  I 
therefore  concluded  I  could  not  spend  my  time 
more  agreeably  than  in  making  little  excursions 
through  this  country,  sometimes  on  the  Canada 
side,  and  at  other  times  on  the  opposite  shore.  You 
will  observe,  from  the  date  of  this,  that  my  last 
movement  has  been  down  the  river ;  the  reason  for 
which  is,  that  having  observed  that  the  form  and 
make  of  the  country  below  the  falls  coincided  with 
an  opinion  I  had  ix.ibibed,  that,  at  some  remote 
period,  a  great  change  had  there  taken  place,  I 
was  induced  to  spend  all  my  time  in  making  a 
personal  examination  of  that  part  of  it  situate 
between  Lake  f>ie  and  Lake  Ontario. 

This  country  may  very  properly  be  divided  into 
higher  and  lower;  the  latter  of  which  will  in- 
clude the  greatest  part  of  that  large  district  com- 
prehended between  Niagara  River,  Lake  Ontario, 


*T^6iL, 


85 


and  the  smaller  body  of  lakes,  generally  distin- 
guished  as  the  Genessee  Country,  in  the   State 
of  New- York,  eastwardly ;  as   likewise    a  large 
extent  of  country  west  of  the  Niagara  River,  in 
Upper  Canada,  including  all  the  country  around 
the  west  and  north-west  ends  of  Lake  Ontario. 
All  this  appears  to  me  to  have  been  formerly  the 
bed  of  a  great  lake,  the  remains  of  which  we  now 
find  in  Lake  Ontario.     From  the  summit  of  the 
highest  lands  between  the  two  lakes  this  natural 
boundary  of  the  former  lake  is  very  easily  distin- 
guished,  and  the  immense  basin  before  you  has 
strikingly  the  appearance  of  having  emerged  as 
the  waters  subsided.     What  strengthens  this  opi- 
nion is  the  numerous  specimens  of  lake   shells 
found  in  every  part  of  this  country,  in  many  places 
fifty  miles  distant  inland.     Another  circumstance 
which  likewise  goes  towards  supporting  this  same 
opinion,  is  that,  in  seeking  for  a  proper  place  to 
run  a  new  road,  a  long  narrow  indented  strip  of 
land  was  found  in  the  heart  of  a  rich  loamy  coun- 
try,  composed  entirely  of  coarse  gravel,  pebbles, 
shells  and  other  marine  productions,  which  now 
are  only  found  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  and  which 
evidently  had  once  been  the  shore,  beach  or  sand 
bar  of  the  ancient  lake. 

The  upper  country  commences  immediately 
above  Queen's  and  Lewis  Towns,  where  the  hills 
rise  gradually  to  a  height  of  nearly  four  hundred 
feet ;  from  the  summit  of  which  you  have  an  ex- 


^. 


.^)  f 


'II 


II 


u 


80 

tensive  view  for  sixty  or  eighty  miles  around,  and 
far  across  Lake  Ontario  itself.     This  ridge  rises 
on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  seems  one    to  have 
formed  the  barrier  of  the  western  waters  above. 
To  the  left,  after  passing  into  Canada,  it  winds 
along  the  west  and  south-west  parts  of  Lake  On- 
tario, receding  from  the  lake  as  it  advances  in  that 
quarter ;  while  to  the  right  it  passes  off  eastwardly 
to  the  Genessee  Country,  preserving  its  elevation 
still ;  from  whence  it  may  be  traced  south -east- 
wardly until  it  becomes  the  dividing  ridge  between 
the  waters  of  the  Rivers  St.  Lawrence,  Susquehanna 
and  Alleghany,  which  discharge  themselves  into  the 
Atlantic  ocean  near  Newfoundland,  Baltimore  and 
New-Orleans ;  a  distance,  in  the  two  extremes,  of 
nearly  three  thousand  miles  apart. 

The  banks  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  from 
Queen's  Town  to  the  present  situation  of  the  falls, 
are  solid  perpendicular  rocky  cliiFs,  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  surface  of  the  fiver ;  and  that  every 
part  of  this  distance,  which  is  about  seven  and  a 
lialf  miles,  has  successiv  ^  been  tlie  site  of  the 
falls  itself,  must  be  evident  to  any  person  who  will 
take  the  trouble  to  examine  it  throughout  the 
whole  length.  This  river,  and  particularly  the 
part  within  the  distance  I  am  now  describing,  ne- 
ver rises  above  four  or  five  feet  higher  than  it  is 
at  present ;  and,  although  it  is  impassable  on  ac- 
count of  its  violent  agitation,  yet  nothing  short  of 
the  irresistible  fury  of  the  falls  itself  could  ever 


87 


have  made  those  lasting  and  ini.nitable  impres- 
sions which  are  to  be  seen  upon  the  stupendous 
mass  of  rocks  throughout  the  whole  of  this  distance; 
and  for  ages  to  come  they  will  remain  as  monuments 
of  the  great  and  surprising  changes  this  country 
has  undergone.  * 

From  what  I  could  learn  of  the  inhabitants,  ma- 
ny  unsuccesrful  attempts  had  been  made  to  sound 
the  river  in  several  j^laces,  which,  from  the  gene- 
ral  opinion,  is  believed  to  be  at  least  two  hundred 
feet  deep.  As  no  boat  can  live  on  this  part  of  the 
river,  every  attempt  of  this  kind  will  be  made  from 
the  land  ;  and  I  am  well  convinced,. from  my  own 
observations,  that  it  will  be  verj^  difficult  to  sound 
it  with  any  degree  of  accuracy,  as  the  immense 
body  of  waters^  and  velocity  of  the  current,  would 
carry  off  a  weight  before  it  could  reach  the  bottom 
of  the  place  attempted. 

If,  according  to  the  ^fosaic  chronology,  our 
globe,  at  the  present  m^-  :nt,  is  no  more  than  five 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  thirteen  years  old, 
and  we  admit  the  falls  to  haye  been  formed  at  the 
same  time,  we  shall  then  have  a  ratio  of  encroach, 
ment  upon  the  upper  country  of  seven  and  a  half 
aailes  during  that  period.  This,  upon  calculation, 
I  find  reduces  the  proportion  to  81  3-4  inches  for 
a  year,  6  3-4  inches  for  a  month,  and  1-5  of  an 
hich  for  a  day.  Although  this  rate  of  destruction 
is  great,  yet,  according  to  the  same  authority,  we 
are  under  the  necessity  of  increasing  its  ratio  near- 


4 


.|> 


h 


'If 


i-: 


t 
L 


^11 


/ 

as 

ly  one-half;  for,  according  to  the  true  doctrine  of 
our  time,  "  in  consequence  of  the  general  deluge, 
"  our  globe  was  torn  from  its  centre,  all  its  parts 
"  confounded  together,  and,  after  a  general  amal- 
"  gamation,  was  reproduced  in  form  and  cubstancc 
"  as  we  now  find  it."  I  have  not  yet  found  any  one 
who  will  admit  the  formation  of  the  falls  to  be 
coeval  with  our  globe  ;  they  are  satisfied  to  go  no 
farther  back  than  the  period  of  Noah's  flood.  This, 
then,  will  oblige  me  to  deduct  two  thousand  three 
hundred  and  forty-eight  years  from  my  first  calcu- 
lation, as  that  is  said  to  be  the  age  of  our  earth  at 
the  time  of  the  deluge.  The  increased  rate  of  en- 
croachment will,  therefore,  then  be  114  3-10  inches 
for  a  year,  9  1-2  inches  for  a  month,  and  3-10 
of  an  inch  for  a  day.  If,  then,  it  is  admitted  that 
these  falls,  in  the  short  period  of  four  thousand*one 
hundred  and  fifty-seven  years,  have  receded  from 
their  original  situation  at  Lewis  Town,  to  their 
present  site  at  Fort  Schlosser,  a  distance  of  seven 
miles  and  a  half,  we  may  reasonably  calculate  that, 
in  the  succeeding  five  hundred  and  sixty-seven 
years,  they  will  have  advanced  at  least  another  mile 
of  5,280  feet.  This,  then,  will  include  all  the  ra- 
pids above  the  falls,  and,  consequently,  add  an- 
other height  of  one  hundred  feet  to  their  present 
elevation,  which  will  make  a  perpendicular  fall  of 
nearly  three  hundred  feet. 
1 


doctrine  of 
:ral  deluge, 
ill  its  parts 
neral  amal- 
i  Gubstance 
nd  any  one 
falls  to  be 
;d  to  go  no 
Dod.  This, 
isand  three 
first  calcu- 
)ur  earth  at 
rate  of  en- 
-10  inches 
,  and  3-10 
nitted  that 
)usand*one 
;eded  from 
1,  to  their 
e  of  seven 
:ulate  that, 
iixty-seven 
lother  mile 
all  the  ra- 
fy  add  a|i- 
eir  present 
ular  fall  of 


89 

The  idea  of  this  once  taking  place  has  so  heated 
my  imagination,  that  I  have  even  wished  my  ap- 
pearance  had  been  dispensed  with  until  that  period  • 
but,  since  it  is  not  so,  I  have  one  consoling  idei 
eft,  which  is  derived  from  the  pleasing  specula, 
tions  of  a  wise  man  of  Greece*-"  that  we  exist 
lor  ever,  and  only  change  our  forms."     If  this 
doctrine  is  true,   (and  greater  absurdities  are  be. 
Iteved  to  be  true,)  may  I  not  hope,  like  "  Lucius  » 
m  the  "  Golden  Ass  of  Apuleius,"  to  see  these  cele- 
brated  falls  at  the  desired  period,  even  should  it  be 
in  the  shape  of  an  ass  ? 

I  cannot  believe  that  the  falls  make  so  rapid  an 
encroachment  upon  the  upper  country  as  the  above 
account  would  seem  to  indicate ;  for  when  you  re- 
fleet  that  we  have  been  acquainted  with  this  part 
of  the  country  ever  since  the  year  one  tiiousand 
SIX  hundred  and  sixty-eight,  making  a  period  of 
one  hundred  and  forty-one  years,  which,  accord- 
ing  to  the  calculation  made,  gives  us  1320  feet 
or  one.quarter  of  a  mile,  encroachment  during  that 
time,  I  siiy  I  cannot  believe  thit  a  circumstance 
so- extraordinary    should  have    remained    unno- 
ticed   until   this  late  period.      And,    when  you 
consider  that  the  whole  bed  and  foundation  of  the 
falls  are  composed  of  a  hard  solid  rock,  you  will 

*  Pythago,.as   who  affirmed  that  his  body  was  animated 
by  the  soul  of  Euphorbus. 

VOL.  I.  tt 


i 


s 

} 


I 


M/ 


90 

not  be  surprised  if  I  say,  I  even  doubt  whether  it 
be  de>itroyed  at  the  rate  of  one-twentieth  part  of  an 
inch  tor  a  day.  This  I  find  would  give  1  1-2  inches 
for  a  month,  18  inches  for  a  year,  1,500  feet  for 
one  thousand  years ;  and  to  hiive  receded  from 
their  original  position  at  Lewis  Town,  to  their 
present  situation  at  Fort  Schlosser,  would  have  re- 
quired i\  period  of  twenty-seven  thousand  yeiu-s. 

I  am  well  aware  that  this  doctrine  is  better  cal- 
culated for  the  empire  of  China  than  that  of  my 
own  country,  and  you  know  I  am  too  much  of  a 
tiue  believer  myself  to  advance  any  thing  new, 
contrary  to  the  ancient  regimen  ;  I  shall,  therefore, 
briefly  sum  up  this  seeming  contradiction  by  sup- 
posing that  although  Moses  takes  twenty-three 
thousand  years  less  to  complete  the  same  system  of 
destruction,  yet,  it  is  very  probable,  that  some  vio- 
lent convulsions  of  nature  may  have  assisted  him 
more  in  one  of  his  years  than  has  been  experien- 
ced in  the  whole  of  my  twenly-sevcn  thousand. 

That  die  waters  of  the  Niagara  River  above  the 
falls,  as  likewise  of  Lake  Erie,  continue  insensibly 
to  lower,  is  ronfirmed  by  almost  every  person vt'ho 
has  lived  long  on  their  banks.  The  current  of  the 
river  is  likewise  said  to  be  stronger  than  formerly, 
o\ving,  probably,  to  the  continued  wearing  away 
of  the  bed  of  the  river,  which  affords  a  more  rapid 
descent  for  the  stream  above.  Another  eonvincing 
circumstance  that  this  river,  above  the  falls,  wii 
once  a  part  of  the  iuieient  Lake  Eric  itself,  is,  th: 


*^"*'^*^"*i*fc*»*n 


91 


whether  it 
part  of  an 
1-2  niches 

00  feet  for 
:ded  from 
»,  to  their 
d  have  re- 
nd yeiirs. 

better  cal- 
hat  of  my 
much  of  a 
thing  new, 
,  therefore, 
on  by  sup- 
venty -three 
e  system  of 
t  some  vio- 
ssisted  him 

1  cxperien- 
housand. 

r  above  the 
e  insensibly 
person  vVho 
rrent  of  the 
m  formerly, 
taring  away 
more  rapid 
convincing 
le  falls,  wii 
self,  is,  th: 


in  diggii  ;  wells,  &c.  at  a  consideraHe  distance 
from  the  banks,  shells  are  very  often  found.  Judge 
P.  walked  with  me  one  morning  to  a  place  where 
n  man  was  digging  holes  for  the  purpose  of  sink- 
ing  tan  vats,  and  where  he  had  found,  six  or  seven 
feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  a  great  num- 
ber and  variety  of  shells.     This  place  is  about 
three  hundred  yards  above  the  falls,  and  at  least 
thirty  feet  higher  than  the  surface  of  the  river,  in  a 
soil  exacdy  like  tb>t  in  the  bed  of  the  river— a  yeU 
lowish  sandy  gravel.     I  took  several  of  the  shells 
as  specimens,  with  an  intent  to  compare  them  with 
thos<-  found  at  present  in  the  river ;  one,  in  parti- 
cular,  was  so  very  large  and  thick,  (being  seven 
mches  long,  three  and  three-quarters  wide,  and 
half  an  inch  thick  at  the  hinge,)  that  I  doubted 
whether  our  lakes  or  rivers  produced  any  thing 
like  it  at  present.     Judge  P.  however,  informed 
me  he  had  seen  some  as  large  taken  out  of  the 
river ;  nor  was  it  long  before  1  had  an  opportunity 
of  being  satisfied  that  they  were  of  the  same  shape, 
figure  and  size  with  those  now  found  in  the  bed 
of  the  same  river.     From  this  circumstance  it  is 
evident  that  this  spot  was,  at  some  distant  period, 
a  part  of  the  lake ;  and,  as  it  would  require  a  rise 
of  thirty  or  forty  feet  to  overflow  it,  which  would 
consequently    inundate  a  large  tract  of  the  sur- 
rounding  country,  it  is  plain  that  the  ancient  Lake 
Erie  must  have  formerly  been  much  larger  than  it 
is  at  present. 


t 


[ 


*  ki 


I      ( 


I 


,^  -^"'■i 


92 


i-i 


I. 


^  H 


On  the  hills  immediately  back  of  Lewis  Town, 
is  still  to  be  seen  some  small  remains  of  the  ma- 
chinery formerly  used  by  the  French,  when  in  pos- 
session of  this  country.     This  is  a  contrivance 
made  prior  to  any  roads  or  teams  being  in  use  in 
this  wilderness,  and  so  constructed  that,  with  a 
kind  of  windlass  mid  cable,  one  end  would  draw 
up  a  large  frame  made  to  contain  three  or  four 
thousand  weight  of  goods,  while  the  other  end, 
with  an  apparatus  of  the  same  kind,  would  de- 
scend with  the  same  or  a  greater  quantity  of  peltry. 
I  am  likewise  informed,  that  they  had  another 
contrivance    of  the    siime  kind  at   the  outlet  of 
Lake  2rie,  which  is  the  head  of  Niagara  Jliver, 
where  the  current  is  so  very  rapid  that  vessels  re- 
quire the  strongest  sailing  breeze  to  stem  it.  From 
this  circumstance  large  vessels  seldom  drop  down 
so  low  as  the  strongest  rapids;  notwithstanding 
which,  they  are  frequently  obliged  to  wait  a  fort- 
night together  for  a  breeze  sufficiently  powerful  to 
carry  them  without  the  reach  of  the  current. 

The  present  portage  on  the  American  side, 
which  is  seven  miles  to  Fort  Schlosser,  will  un- 
doubtcdly,  in  a  few  years,  be  changed  to  a  new 
landing,  six  miles  above  the  present.  This  place 
is  owned  by  a  Mr.  J.  who  has  purchased  a  tract 
of  thirteen  hundred  acres  of  land  from  the  state, 
for  which  he  paid  five  dollars  an  acre.  This  site 
for  a  town  or  landing,  is  no  more  than  seven  miles 
from  Lewis  Town,  which  you  will  perceive  is  the 


I 


WIS  Town, 
f  the  ma- 
ten  in  pos- 
ontrivance 
;  in  use  in 
at,  with  a 
ould  draw 
;e  or  four 
other  end, 
would  de- 
of  peltry, 
d  another 
outlet  of 
am  fliver, 
essels  re- 
it.  From 
rop  down 
hstanding 
ait  a  fort- 
)werful  to 
ent. 

can  side, 
will  un- 
to a  new 
his  place 
d  a  tract 
the  state, 
rhis  site 
'en  miles 
ive  is  the 


93 

same  distance  to  Fort  Schlosser,  the  present  land- 
ing  place.     The  difference  of  six  miles  in  so  short 
a  distance,  ,s  occasioned  by  a  sudden  bend  in  the 
river.     I  have  seen  and  conversed  with  the  oro- 
prietor  of  this  tract,  who  described  the  turn  of  the 
river,  which    I  afterwards  found  to  be  perfectly 
correct.     Judge  P.  likewise  mentioned  to  me,  as 
his  opmion,  that  the  landing-place  would  undoubt- 
edly  be  removed  whenever  J. 's  property  fell  into 
the  hands  of  any  one  able  to  open,  or  rather  clear 
out,  a  road  already  opened. 

The  owner  of  this  tract  is  a  Pennsylvanian  Ger- 
man,  and  fully   sensible  of  the  importance  of  its 
situation;  yet,  as  he  is  unable  to  accomplish  any 
thing  himsejf,  he  offered  to  dispose  of  one-half  of 
It  to  me,  as  being  his  countryman;  but  was  afraid 
to  have  any  thing  to  do  with  strangers,  lest  they 
should  ch.ut  him  out  of  the  whole.     The  road  is 
capable  of  being  made  good  and  dry  at  a  very 
moderate  expense,  and,  from  the  conviction  that 
It  must  shortly  become  the  deposit  of  all  the  goods 
which  pass  down  the  lakes,  I  was  almost  induced  * 
to  make  the  purchase. 

Yours, 

C.  S. 


11 


,; 


t4 


LETTER  IX. 


<--« 


Lake  Erie,  Upper  Canada,  August  16,  1807. 


Dear  Friend, 

HAVING,  in  my  three  last,  laboured  hard  to 
entertain  you  with  every  thing  I  could  observe  re- 
specting the  falls,  and  the  surrounding  country,  I 
shall  now  proceed  with  the  progress  of  my  jour- 
ney.  Fort  Erie  is  distant  twenty-four  miles  by 
water  from  Fort  Schlosser.  There  is  no  waggon 
road  on  the  American  side,  but  a  tolerable  horse- 
path, which,  if  it  is  not  too  dark,  you  may  make 

out  to  find. 

The  freight  from  Fort  Schlosser  to  this  place, 
or  to  Black  Rock,  as  it  is  called,  upon  the  oppo- 
site shore,  is  thirty-seven  and  a  half  cents  a  barrel, 
and  twenty -five  cents  a  hundred  weight  for  mer- 
chandise ;  to  which  is  added,  the  pleasure  of 
s!  eping  one  night  in  the  woods.  As  you  have 
already  experienced  what  some  of  our  fair  weather 
friends  would  call  the  "  horrors  of  a  night  in  the 
'*  wilderness,"  I  dare  not  attempt  to  magnify  the 
dangers  and  hardships  to  which  one  is  exposed  in 
a  situation  so  dreadful ;  but  candidly  own  I  spent 


95 


the  night  with  more  comfort  and  satisfaction  than 
that  which  you  will  recollect  we  passed  about 
eight  years  ago  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Ontario, 
when  we  were  very  much  frightened  at  the  growl- 
ing of  a  bear,  who,  uninvited,  came  to  partake  of 
our  half  roasted  raccoon. 

This  river  is  from  one  to  one  and  a  half  miles  in 
breadth,  with  a  current  of  from  four  to  five  miles 
an  hour.  It  is  interspersed  with  a  number  of  rich 
and  beautiful  islands,  of  from  twenty  to  two  hun- 
dred acres.  Grand  Island,  which  begins  about  two 
miles  above  Fort  Schlosser,  is  twelve  miles  long, 
eight  broad,  and  contains  about  thirty  thousand 
acres  of  excellent  land.  This  island  is  disputed 
by  the  British,  who  claim  it  as  being  nearest  their 
shore ;  but,  as  the  midd'e  of  the  river  is  the  boun- 
dary line  between  the  two  nations,  and  the  main 
ehanntl  of  the  river  is  on  the  Canada  shore,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  but  the  sovereignty  of  it  belongs 
to  the  State  of  New- York. 

The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  river  is  somewhat 
low,  although  not  subject  to  any  inundations ;  the 
soil  is  rich,  and  the  British  side  is  one  settled 
street  from  Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario.  The 
American  side,  on  the  contrary,  remains  almost 
wholly  waste  and  unimproved,  chiefly  owin^^  to 
the  lands  being  in  the  hands  of  speculators,  who 
do  not  offer  sufficient  encouragement  to  the  poor 
settler  to  make  improvements. 


k    " 


■■^gp%t-:;:r;r' 


m0r' 


96 


111 


I 


■  '11. 1] 


ill 


The  country  along  this  river  is  considered  as 
very  heaUhy,  being  free  from  those  agues  and  fe- 
vers  which  are  generally  so  prevalent  in  mostrew 
low  countries. 

If  I  may  give  credit  to  one-half  of  the  stories  I 
have  heard  related,  the  country  through  which  I 
have  passed  must  contain  a  vast  number  of  rattle- 
snakes ;  yet  I  have  now  travelled  upwards  of  five 
hundred  miles,  a  greater  part  of  which  was  through 
a  new  and  unsettled  country,  and  frequently  on 
foot  for  ten  miles  together,  when  hunting  in  the 
woods,  yet  I  have  seen  but  two  snakes,  neither 
of  which  were  of  the  rattle  kind.  As  it  is  now 
the  middle  of  summer,  when  they  might  be  ex- 
pected  to  be  most  numerous,  I  must  conclude  they 
are  not  so  plentiful  as  they  are  generally  reported 
to  be. 

Fort  Erie,  which  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  the 
lake,  contains  a  small  garrison  of  twenty-tight 
men,  who,  at  present,  are  employed  in  building 
new  works.  The  Americans  have  no  fort  or  gar- 
rison  on  their  side,  although  there  is  a  most  com- 
manding  situation  for  that  purpose.  This  fort  lies 
in  latitude  42.  53.  N.  and  78.  59.  W. 

Fort  Erie  Village  contains  about  thirty  houses  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  garrison,  the  inhabitants  of 
whi(  h  have  mostly  emigrated  from  Pennsylvania. 
You  here  observe  the  same  open  and  avowed  par- 
liality  for  the  United  States  which  1  have  noticed 
1 


by 


ht 


Mi..J 


iiiii 


.^3i#-. 


d7 

in  every  place  I  was  at  in  Upper  Canada.     You 
will  perhaps  be  surprised  at  a  little  anecdote  I  shall 
relate  which  actually  took  place  but  a  few  days 
ago,  in  the  presence  and  hearing  of  the  officers  and 
soldiers  of  the  garrison.    It  seems,  the  British  had 
occasion  to  move  two  heavy  pieces  of  cannon, 
mounted  on  carriages  in  front  of  the  fort ;  but,  by 
some  strange  accident,  one  of  them  was  pointed 
direcdy  towards  Buffaloe,  an  American  settlement. 
One  of  our  citizens  happening  to  be  there  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  and  being,  perhaps,  prompted 
by   the  same  laudable  curiosity  which   induced 
his  royal  majesty  to  peep  into  the  bung-hole   of 
an  empty  hogshead,  when  on  a  visit  to    Whit- 
bread's  brewery,  likewise  peeped  into  the  muz- 
zie  of  the  gun  ;    but  not  satisfied,   he  went  to 
the  other  end  and  took  her  level,  when,  behold, 
she  was  found  to  be  pointed  directly  against  his 
settlement.     He  immediately  saluted  the  king,  his 
officers  and  soldiers  with  all  the  scurrilous  language 
he  was  capable  of,  concluding  with  a  bitter  curse 
that  he  would  return  the  next  day  with  a  party  of 
choice  fellows,  and,  if  he  found  the  gun  in  the 
same  position,  he  would  hang  every  mother's  son 
of  them,  without  judge  or  jury. 

We  found  three  British  schooners  lying  here 
waiting  for  salt,  one  of  which  was  bound  for 
Presque  Isle.  I  engaged  our  passage  on  board  of 
her ;  but,  as  she  was  afterwards  detained  several 


VOL.   I. 


N 


•V); 


*"■*'  "sl^W^*-"" 


i      ! 


98 

days  with  head  winds,  I  spent  my  time  most  agree- 
ably,  being  continually  engaged  in  my  favourite 
amusement  of  fishing.     This  place  affords  a  great 
variety  of  fine,  large  and  delicious  fish,  such  as  pike, 
pickerel,  musconenja  and  cat  fish,  weighing  from 
twenty  to  forty  pounds  ;  and  while,  rock  and  black 
bass,  weighhig  from  one  to  three  pounds  each ; 
besides  a  variety  of  smaller  and  less  valuable  fish. 
In  two  hours  I  have  taken  a  hundred  weight  with 
a  hook  and  line.     The  greatest  difficulty  I  found 
was  in  procuring  a  regular  supply  of  bait,  which 
is  small  minnows,  sometimes  so  plentiful  that  you 
may  obtain  a  supply  in  five  minutes,  and  at  other 
times  so  scarce  that  you  may  search  an  hour  with- 
out obtaining  a  handful.     The  cat  fish  here  ap- 
pear to  be  of  a  different  species  from  those  caught 
in  the  ponds  and  waters  in  the  vicinity  of  New- 
York,  having  none  of  the  sharp  homs  which  make 
those  so  dangerous  to  handle.     I  have  eat  them 
both  fresh  and  salted,  and  cannot  compare  them  to 
any  thing  but  cod  fish,  except  that  the  cat  fish  is 
much  the  fattest  of  the  two. 
The  best  fishing  ground  is  directly  under  the 
American  shore,  where  I  have  been  much  amused 
while  walking  along  the  beach,  and  seeing  a  herd 
of  little  Indians  collected  together,  every  one  or 
two  hundred  }'ards,  lor  the  purpose  of  fishing,  and 
generally  so  successful  that  each  had  a  burthen  to 
carry  to  the  family  wigwam. 


nost  agree- 
y  favourite 
rds  a  great 
ich  as  pike, 
jhing  from 
:  and  black 
inds  each ; 
uable  fish, 
weight  with 
y  I  found 
>ait,  which 
ul  that  you 
id  at  other 
hour  with- 
1  here  ap- 
Dse  caught 
r  of  New- 
hich  make 
eat  them 
re  them  to 
cat  fish  is 

under  the 
;h  amused 
ng  a  herd 
ry  one  or 
ihing,  and 
jurthen  to 


99 

Ahhough  I  generally  prefer  fishing  to  shooting, 
yet  L.'s  success  one  day  induced  me  to  pass  over 
to  the  Canada  shore  for  the  purpose  of  shooting 
black  squirrels.     I  have  often  seen  flocks  of  black 
birds  on  a  tree,  but  never  before  flocks  of  squir- 
rels !     You  are  perhaps  surprised  at  my  assertion, 
but  I  repeat  it,  they  were  literally  in  small  flocks 
upon  the  trees ;  on  some  we  found  ten,  twelve  and 
fifteen,  and  L.  even  killed  five  of  them  at  one  shot. 
Indeed,  it  was  hardly  necessary  to  shoot  them,  as 
you  would  frequently  find  three  or  four  upon  a 
little  bush  not  more  than  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in 
height.     We  shot  one  hundred  and  eighty-seven 
in  less  than  three  hours.     They  were  exceedingly 
fat,  and  as  they  made  such  delicious  sea  pies,  we 
took  care  to  have  a  good  stock  provided  for  sea 
stores.     The  boys  from  the  village  hunt  them  with 
sticks  and  clubs  ;  but  generally  let  them  lie  where 
they  chance  to  knock  them  down,  as  the  inhabit- 
ants are  surfeited  with  the  too  frequent  repetition 
of  the  dish.    Encouragement  is  however  held  out 
for  their  destruction,  as  they  commit  great  havoc 
in  the  com  fields.     It  is  somewhat  singular  that 
on  the  American  side,  you   may   range   a  day 
through  the  woods,  and  scarcely  pick  up  half  a 
dozen  of  these  animal^s,  while  there  are  such  innu- 
merable flocks  on  the  opposite  shore  ;    an  evident 
sign,  I  think,  that  the  present  multitudes,    from 
some  cause  or  other,  have  migrated  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  north-west,  until  their  farthe.  progress 


i%\.  '.U.''f»!*Wiv«4»»«.-* 


2i>i," 


5ga_:v..j^  mm^- 


•'   ( 


•I' 
Ml 


100 

south-eastwardly  was  arrested  by  the  broad  and 
rapid  stream  of  Niagara. 

Fort  Erie  is  a  port  of  entry  for  the  British  do- 
minions  on  this  side  of  the  lake,  and  Buffaloe 
Creek  has  been  established  for  the  same  purpose 
on  the  American  side. 

The  current  of  the  river  at  this  place  3  s 
strong  that  it  is  impossible  for  a  vessel  to  sail . 
of  port  with  any  thing  short  of  a  four  knot  breeze  ; 
and,  if  one-half  mile  lower,  she  wiU  require  even 
a  stronger  one  to  stem  the  current.  Vessels  fre- 
qucntly  lie  wind-bound  here  for  a  week  or  two  to- 
gether ;  whereas,  if  they  were  only  one  mile  ad- 
vanced into  the  lake,  out  of  the  draught  of  the 
outlet,  they  might  make  an  exper^itious  voyage. 
On  the  American  side  I  have  oh  -rved  they  use 
a  yoke  of  oxen  for  towing  the  boats  up  along 
shore. 

Buffaloe  is  a  small  village  situated  on  Buffaloe 
Creek,  about  three  miles  after  you  pass  the  out- 
let  of  Lake  Erie,  on  your  left  hand  side.  I 
was  present  at  the  annual  distribution  of  the 
presents  to  the  six  nations  of  Indians,  most 
of  whom  now  live  within  the  British  territo- 
ries.  There  were  about  five  hundred  assembled 
together  on  this  occasion,  some  of  whom  were 
painted  and  feathered  off  fine  enough.  They  had 
likewise  a  council  meeting,  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
ceiving and  considering  certain  overtures  that  had 
been  made  to  them  by  some  hostile  Indians,  ''  to 


broad  and 

British  do- 
i  Buffaloe 
le  purpo^ 

lace  i  V. 
to  sail . .. ' 
ot  breeze ; 
juire  even 
essels  fre- 
or  two  to- 

mile  ad- 
?ht  of  the 
IS  voyage. 

they  use 
up  along 

I  Buffaloe 
s  the  out- 
side. I 
n  of  *e 
ns,  most 
ih  territo- 
ssembled 
om  were 
Phey  had 
3se  of  re- 
i  that  had 
ians,  "  to 


m 

"  take  up  the  tomahawk  against  the  United  States  •" 
but  they  wisely  determined  to  remain  neuter  in 
case  of  hostilities  between  America  and  Englanci, 
After  their  busmess  was  setUed,  they  formed 
themselves  into  parties  at  ball-playing,  aod  run- 
mng  races  for  prizes  given  by  the  State.     Their 
manner  of  ball.playing  is  very  similar  to  what  you 
have  seen  by  the  name  of  hurley;  but,  instead  ,f 
the  curved  hickory  used  on  that  occasion,  they 
have  a  long  curved  racket,  strung  with  deer  sinews, 
with  which  they  can  strike  the  ball  to  an  astonish- 
mg   distance.     Whenever  the   ball   was   lodged 
among  the  crowd  of  players,  you  would  have  sup- 
posed    there  was  a  bloody  battle  going  on    as 
eveiy  one   struck   pell-mell  together  wfdi    their 
lockets  not  m  the  least  heeding  whom  he  knock- 
ed  on  the  head;  but,  whenever  a  lucky  stroke 
drove  the  bal  near  to  the  goal,  you  would  have 
thought  he  1  Itself  had  broke  loose,  for  such  a 
hideous  yell  and  screaming  was  instantly  set  upas 
baffles  all  my  attempts  at  a  description 

X  was  much  amused  by  the  pride  and  gallantry 
displayed  by  one  of  the  victors  on  receiving  asT 
prize,  a  light  calico  shirt.  As  soon  as  he  recei 
ved  It  he  put  it  on,  and,  after  viewing  himself  for 
a  moment,  sO-utted  through  the  crowd  to  display 
his  finely.  In  a  k^  minutes  he  returned  to  a 
circle  of  women,  when  he  pulled  off  his  prize  and 
put  It  upon  one  of  the  lady  squaws,  who  soon  ex- 
penenced  th^  value  of  this  mark  of  distinction  by 


i^r^^^f-^"- 


102 

attracting  the  admiration  of  some,  and  exciting  the 
envy  of  more^  among  the  crowd  of  females  around 
her. 

There  is  a  very  good  ferry  kept  on  the  Ameri- 
can side  of  the  river,  which  is  within  the  reserva- 
tion tract  intended  for  a  garrison,  should  occasion 
require  it.  The  Seneca  Indians,  in  their  treaty 
with  the  State  of  New- York,  have  secured  the 
privilege  of  a  free  ferry  across  this  river  whenever 
they  please. 

I  am  just  notified  that  the  wind  is  fair,  and  the 
captam  waiting  for  me,  in  order  to  get  under  way. 
My  next  will  be  from  Presque  Isle  across  Lake 
Erie ;  or,  if  no  immediate  opportunity  of  convey- 
ance should  offer,  more  probably  from  the  head 
waters  of  the  celebrated  Ohio.  Till  when  farewell. 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


si* 


■'-.i^'^"^" 


xciting  the 
les  around 

he  Ameri- 
le  reserva- 
d  occasion 
;heir  treaty 
ecured  the 
■  whenever 

ir,  and  the 
under  way. 
:ross  Lake 
of  convey- 
n  the  head 
n  farewell. 


C.  S. 


103 


LETTER  X. 

Pennsylvania,  Fort  Le  Beauf,  August  25, 1807. 
Dear  Friend, 

_  YOU  will  perceive  from  the  date  of  my  letter 
that  I  have  at  length  arrrived  at  one  of  the  head 
waters  of  the  Ohio.  But.  before  I  say  any  thing 
m  advance,  ,t  is  necessary  you  should  know  the 
particulars  of  my  voyage  to  this  pUce. 

We   embarked   on  the  twentieth  instant    on 
board  of  the  British  schooner  Dover,  Cant'  H 
bound  for  Presque  Isle,  and,  havhg  a  fair  wind' 

the  wmd  died  away,  and  afterwarfs  set  in  a  head 
and  continued  so  for  the  remainder  of  our  voyaee' 
We  we,,  within  fifteen  miles  of  our  destinatiS; 
when  the  wind  increased  to  such  a  gale  as  render, 
ed  It  necessao'  for  us,  in  older  to  secure  a  har 
hour,  to  run  over  to  the  Canada  shore,  and  come" 
to  under  Cape  Aleneau.     Uke  Erie  is  perhaps  the 
most  dangerous  to  navigate  of  all  the  lakes,  afford- 
•ng  no  harbours,  and  almost  one  continued  cni^V 
|rona,ound  shore.      Another  misfortune  is,  S 
the  bottom  ,5  generally  a  smooth  rocky  surface 


i 


\\ 


f 


■N" 


104 


unfit  for  anchoring;  so  that,  if  you  are  once 
caught  with  even  a  moderate  gale  upon  a  lee 
shore,  there  is  no  alternative  but  to  slip  your  ca- 
ble and  beat  off,  or  suffer  shipwreck. 

After  having  handed  all  our  sails,  we  lay  too  all 
night  under  a  double  reefed  fore-sail,  and  in  the 
nidrhiirg  found  oursielves,  as  it  were,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  ocean  ;  no  land  was  to  be  seen  on  either 
side.  Towards  evening  the  wind  settled  consider- 
ably, and  before  dark  had  abated  so  much  of  its 
vidlencc  as  enabled  us  to  set  all  sail.  The  lake, 
however,  in  the  mean  time,  had  become  so  agita- 
ted'as  to  give  a  very  disagreeable  motion  Jo  the 
vessel,  which  rendered  this  night  even  more  un- 
pleasant than  the  former.  I  was  up  long  before 
day-light,  looking  out  for  the  land,  so  impatient 
was  I  to  be  ortce  more  on  shore.  This  pleasure, 
hoHVever,  was  denied  me  during  the  whole  of  that 
day,  although  towards  evening  we  were  close  in 
with  the  land ;  but,  about  midnight,  we  received 
the  pleasing  intelligence  that  we  had  come  to  an 
anchor  under  the  town  of  Presque  Isle. 

The  distance  of  Presque  Isle  from  Fort  Erie  is 
ninety  miles.  Freight  is  seventy-five  cents  a  bar- 
rel, merchandise  fifty-cents  a  hundred  weight,  and 
a  cabin  passage  four  dollars,  including  board.  It 
lies  in  latitude  42.  10.  N.  and  80.  8.  W. 

The  land  from  Fort  Erie  Ferry,  or  Black  Rock, 
up  to  BufflUoe  Creek,  and  from  thence  to  Chau- 
I 


-— i.^- 


105 


are  once 
ipon  a  lee 
,p  your  ca- 

lay  too  all 
ind  in  the 
1  the  mid- 
n  on  either 
I  consider- 
luch  of  its 
The  lake, 
e  so  agita- 
tion Jo  the 
more  un- 
)ng  before 
)  impatient 
s  pleasure, 
ole  of  that 
re  close  in 
^e  received 
;ome  to  an 

ort  Erie  is 
ents  a  bar- 
veight,  and 
board.     It 

T 

• 

ack  Rock, 
to  Chau- 


taughque,  which  is  sixty  miles,  appears  to  be  low 
rich  hind,  generally  reputed  healthy ;  it  then  rises 
suddenly  to  a  great  height,  and  has  all  the  appear- 
ance  of  being  a  rough  mountainous  country,  yet, 
I  was  informed,  continues  in  general  level  and 
champaign.     The  whole  distanc-  between  Presque 
Isle  and  Le  Beauf,  with  one  or  two  small  excep- 
tions,  Ifound  a  handsome,  rich  and  level  tract,  and 
the  roads  so  very  miry  that,  even  at  this  dry  season 
you  would  suppose  you  was  travelling  over  some 
bottom. 

Chautpughque  landing  is  so  called  from  a  seven 
mile  portage  communicating  with  Chautaughque 
Lake,  situated  in  that  comer  of  our  State  which 
joins  Pennsylvania,  on  Lake  Erie.     This  lake  dis- 
charges its  waters  through  the  Ccnnewango  River 
into  the  Alleghany,  which  meet  the  waters  of  Le 
Beauf  and  French  Creek,  at  Fort  Franklin,  about 
one   hundred  and  ten  miles   below   this.     The 
freight  to  Chautaughque  is  the  same  as  to  Presque 
Isle,  although  thirty-three  or  four  mUes  nearer. 
This  is  owing  to  Chautaughque  being  as  yet  an  en' 
tire  new  settlement,  having  but  one  house,  and  no 
vessels  of  its  own.     The  time,  however,  wUl  soon 
arrive  when  a  seven  mile  portage,  over  a  good 
road,  will  draw  off  all  the  carrying  trade  from 
Presque  Isle,  where  the  shortest  portage  will  be 
fourteen  miles. 


VOL.  r. 


o 


i..r«3tR*,. 


iSfe*'- 


..   r*-'-S*t, 


^■'-..J5^^.-'^mm^ 


106 


The  village  of  Presque  Isle  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  contains  at  present  about  thirty  houses ;  its 
situation  is  high,  pleasant  and  heulthy,  and  com- 
mands an  extensive  view  of  the  lake  and  adjacent 
country  ;  its  chief  support  at  present  depends 
upon  the  transportation  of  salt  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Ohio. 

The  harbour  of  Presque  Isle  is  not  only  large 
and  spacious,  with  a  good  depth  of  water,  but 
also  affords  good  anchoring  ground,  and  complete 
shelter  from  wind  and  sea ;  yet,  on  account  of  a 
sand  bar  which  runs  across  its  mouth,  no  vessel 
drawing  more  than  four  feet  water  can  avail  herself 
of  these  advantages.  They  talk,  indeed,  of  opening 
a  channel  of  sufficient  depth  to  admit  vessels  draw- 
ing twelve  feet  water ;  but  I  am  of  opinion  that, 
as  the  general  ground  swell  of  the  lake  beats  in 
from  that  quarter,  unless  they  can  likewise  open 
another  for  the  roll  of  the  sea,  their  labour  will  be 
in  vain. 

Vessels  employed  in  navigating  this  lake  are 
constantly  exposed  to  the  dangers  of  shipwreck, 
for  the  want  of  good  harbours.  Even  here,  at 
Presque  Isle,  a  vessel  comes  to  an  anchor  a^  near 
to  the  shore  as  she  dare,  when  flats  are  sent  out  to 
unload  her.  This  is  often  attended  with  great  de- 
lays, as  it  frequently  happens  that  a  light  sea  will 
prevent  these  flats  from  going  out  for  a  week  to- 
gether; and  oftentimes  the  vessel  is  obliged  to 
heave  up  her  anchors  and  stand  out  to  sea,  to 


^'>^wm-i-!f-i.' 


^    —>'**'" 


107 

avoid  being  dashed  to  pieces  on  a  lee  shore.  This 
is  the  cause,  and  a  very  reasonable  one  too,  I  think, 
why  freight  is  higher  on  this  lake  than  on  Lake 
Ontario. 

Presque  Isle  is  situated  within  what  is  called  the 
"  Triangle,"  being  a  tract  formerly  belonging  to 
the  State  of  New-York,  but  ceded  in  order  to  ac- 
commodate Pennsylvania  with  a  convenient  front 
upon  Lake  Erie.  A  certain  company,  known  by 
the  name  of  the  "  Population  Land  Company," 
have  purchased  a  consideniblc  part  of  this  tnict, 
upon  condition  of  making  certain  settlements 
within  a  limited  time.  This  has  not  been  fulfilled 
oil  their  part,  on  account,  as  they  allege,  of  "  the 
"  United  States  being  involved  in  a  war  with  the 
"  neighbouring  Indians,  which  prevented  the  emi- 
"  gration  of  settlers."  In  consequence  of  which  a 
very  considerable  number  of  settlers  had  taken 
possession  of  several  small  tracts  of  their  land,  as  wild 
lands  of  the  State,  and  settled  them  under  the  con- 
ditions specified  by  a  certain  act  of  the  legislature, 
made  "  for  the  encouragement  of  settlers  settling 
"  upon  the  western  lands  belonging  to  the  State." 
Many  of  these  poor  people,  after  several  years 
struggling  with  the  difficulties  of  a  frontier  settle- 
ment, had  just  began  to  reap  the  fruits  of  their 
well-earned  labours,  when  they  found  themselves 
involved  in  a  lawsuit  with  the  Population  Compa- 
ny, who,  I  am  informed,  have  recovered  the 
claims  upon  the  ground  before  mentioned.     None 


108 


-V  ft 

I* 


ilf 


of  the  executions  have  as  yet  been  carried  into 
effect ;  and,  if  I  may  judge  from  the  spirit  and 
determination  of  some  of  the  unfortunate  sufferers 
with  whom  I  have  conversed,  they  are  determined 
to  defend  what  they  consider  as  their  lawful  ac- 
quisitions  with  the  last  drop  of  their  blood. 

The  company  are  certainly  justifiable  in  esta- 
Wishing  their  just  claims,  yet,  considering  all  cir- 
cumstances, it  would   be  better  to  effect   some 
kind  of  a  compromise  with  the  unfortunate  settlers, 
rather   than  drive  them  to  acts   of  desperation! 
This  question,  like  many  others  of  a  local  nature, 
has  at  length  become  blended  with  the  divided 
politics  of  the  State,  and  bids  fair  to  give  rise  to  a 
little   insurrection.      At   least,   it  is  my  humble 
opinion,  that  the  executions  cannot  be  carried  into 
effect  without  the  shedding  of  l)lood. 

There  was  formerly   a   considerable    garrison 
kept  at  Presque  Isle,  and,  if  I  mistake  not,  used 
to  be  the  head-quariers  of  that  gallant  old  soldier 
General  Anthony  Wayne.     The  fort  and  other 
works  are  now  rapidly  going  to  decay,  which  is 
not  much  to  be  regretted,  as  they  will  scarcely 
ever  be  occupied  again  in  case  of  an  Indian  war. 
Recollecting  that  the  remains  of  General  Wayne 
were  interred  at  his  particular  request  under  the 
flag  staff  belonging  to  this  fort,  I  was  induced  one 
morning  to  pay  it  a  visit,  expecting  to  find  at  least 
a  decent,  if  not  a  sumptuous  monument  erected  to 
his  deserving  memory ;  but,  alas !  how  fleeting 

a 


arried  into 
spirit  and 
:e  sufferers 
letermined 
lawful  ac- 
od. 

le  in  esta- 
ng  all  cir- 
ect  some 
te  settlers, 
speration. 
;al  nature, 
2  divided 
;  rise  to  a 
'  humble 
rried  into 

garrison 
not,  used 
i  soldier 
nd  other 
tvhich  is 

scarcely 
lian  war. 
I  Wayne 
nder  the 
iced  one 
1  at  least 
ected  to 

fleetins: 


109 

and  short-lived  is  the  remembrance  of  those  who 
have  served  their  country^  so  well !     Where  is  the 
American  who  has  not  heard  and  admired  the 
deeds  and  achievements  of  Wayne  in  quelling  an 
Indian  war,  and  restoring  peace  with  its  ten  thou, 
sand  blessmgs  to  the  bleeding  fomilies  of  our  fron- 
tiers  ?     And  where,  let  me  ask,  is  his  countryman 
whose  eye  refused  a  tear  to  his  virtues  on  hearing 
of  h,s  decease?     There  is  none,  I  believe  ;  J 
yet  he  lies  neglected  and  forgotten  ' 

The  general's  grave  had  been  once  paled  in, 
but  time  had  rotted  away  the  principal  part.     I 
replaced  It;  and  should  it  stand  a  year,  a  month, 
or  even  for  a  day,  I  have  performed  a  duty.     At 
the  head  of  the  grave  is  a  small  misshapen  stone, 
picked  out  of  the  rubbish  of  the  fort,  with  A.  W 
the  initials  of  the  general's  name,  scratched  with  J 
nail !  Not  even  an  epitaph.     The  wretched  little 
space  was  yet  unoccupied.     Could  I  depart  and 
eave  it  still  a  blank  ?    No  my  friend  I  could  not  ■ 
but  with  my  penknife,  engraved,  in  rude  but  le-' 
gible  characters,  "  shime  on  my  country  " 

The  portage  from  Presque  Isle  to  Fort  Le 
Beauf,  or  Waterford,  as  it  has  lately  been  named, 
IS  fourteen  miles ;  carriage  at  one  dollar  and  fifty 
cents  a  barrel,  and  merchandise  at  fifty  cents  a 
hundred  weight.  It  is  probable  these  rites  my  - 
in  a  short  time,  be  somewhat  lower,  as  a  turnpike 
road   over   this  route   will  soon   be   complet  d 


^  ,. 


110 


ii 


n\> 


when  a  team  will  be  able  to  carry  twice,  or  even 
thrice  the  weight  they  do  at  present. 

Although  I  have  travelled  many  hundred  miles 
both  in  our  old  and  new  countries,  and  seen  both 
rough  and  disagreeable  roads,  yet  I  never  saw  a 
bad  road  before  this.  What  think  you  of  starting 
at  sunrise,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  when  the 
days  are  longest,  and  making  it  dark  night  before 
you  could  whip  and  spur  through  fourteen  miles  of 
mud  and  mire  ?  a  great  part  of  which  is  up  to 
vour  knees  while  sitting  on  the  saddle.  No  doubt 
you  have  seen  people  treading  clay  for  making 
brick  ;  had  you  seen  me  at  the  time  of  my  arrival 
at  this  place,  you  would  have  sworn  that  man  and 
horse  were  both  brick  makers,  for  both  were  lite- 
rally covered  at  least  one-half  inch  thick  with  mud 
from  head  to  foot.  I  flattered  myself,  while  in  this 
pickle,  that  two  or  three  dozen  plunges  in  the  ri- 
ver, with  all  my  clothes  on,  would  be  the  most  ex- 
peditious way  of  cleansing  myself  from  the  mud ; 
but  I  was  s.idly  disappointed  when  I  arrived  at  Le 
Beauf,  to  find  it  necessary  to  proceed  one  mile  far- 
ther to  a  small  lake,  as  the  river  or  creek  was 
scarcely  covered  with  four  inches  of  water.  Here 
I  was  under  the  necessity  of  borrowing  a  change 
of  clothing,  as  my  travelling  trunk  had  not  yet 
come  on  ;  nor  did  I  see  any  thing  of  the  waggon 
until  the  next  day,  when  it  made  its  appearance 
with  an  additional  yoke  of  oxen.  The  crippled 
condition  of  the  waggon  convinced  me  that  it  had 


ice,  or  even 

ndred  miles 
d  seen  both 
never  saw  a 
1  of  starting 
,  when  the 
light  before 
2en  miles  of 
:h  is  up  to 
,  No  doubt 
for  making 
f  my  arrival 
lat  man  and 
h  were  lite- 
k.  with  mud 
while  in  this 
es  in  the  ri- 
he  most  ex- 
tn  the  mud ; 
rrived  at  Le 
ine  mile  far- 
r  creek  was 
vater.  Here 
iig  a  change 
had  not  yet 
the  waggon 
appearance 
'he  crippled 
e  that  it  had 


ni 

seen  hard  times ;  and,  upon  inquiry,  I  found  the 
whole  waggon  and  cargo  (by  one  wheel  running  over 
the  stump  of  a  tree)  had  been  overset  in  a  deep 
mud  hole.  My  travelling  trunk  and  portable  desk, 
being  on  the  top  of  the  waggon,  were  the  Jirst 
which  went  in ;  and,  as  all  the  remainder  of  the 
loading  fell  more  or  less  upon  them,  they  were 
consequently  the  last  taken  out.     My  trunk  be- 
fore  this  was  not  so  heavy,  but,  upon  an  occasion, 
I  could  carry  it  a  hundred  yards;  but,  at  this 
time,  two  teamsters  could  with  difficulty  take  it 
from  the  waggon.     Upon  examination  I  found 
my  clothing  generally  spoiled,  my  notes  and  pa- 
pers  defaced  and  torn,  and  a  small  travelling  ther- 
mometer broken  in  a  thousand  pieces.     My  mis- 
fortunes  were  great,  yet,  as  "  whatever  is  is  right,'' 
I  had  no  reason  to  complain.    I  ordered  my  things 
down  to  the  stream,  and  rolling  up  my  sleeves  to 
the  elbows,  endeavoured  to  make  the  best  of  so 
bad  a  bargain. 

Tlie  teams  employed  on  these  roads  have  gene- 
rally  t^hree  yoke  of  oxen,  who  can  draw  no  more 
than  six  barrels  of  salt,  or  other  goods  in  propor- 
tion, and  take  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  days 
to  perform  the  route. 

About  two  miles  before  you  reach  this  village 
you  ascend  a  small  eminence  which  divides  the 
waters  of  the  Ohio  from  those  descending  into  the 
lakes  ;  the  country  otherwise  continuing  generally 
very  level.     The  town  of  Waterford,  which  lie's. 


!  i 


112 


I    t 


W 


in  latitude  41.  2.  N.  and  79.  53.  W.  is  laid  out 
on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Le  Beauf,  the  chief  part  of 
which  still  remains,  and  the  block- house  occa- 
sionally is  jiised  for  a  chapel.  The  village  con- 
tains twenty  houses,  and  depends  wholly  on  the 
salt  trade  and  boat  building  for  its  support.  The 
land  about  this  neighbourhood  is  generally  of  a 
strong  loam,  but  the  climate  has  the  character  of 
being  cold  and  variable,  and  subject  to  very  late 
and  early  frost.  Last  night  we  experienced  a  very 
hard  one,  and  this  morning  its  eft'ects  were  percep- 
tible in  the  common  destruction  of  their  melons 
and  cucumbers,  both  in  fields  and  gardens.  Seve- 
ral of  the  oldest  settlers  have  informed  me,  that  it 
was  no  uncommon  thing  to  have  severe  frosts 
in  the  months  of  May,  June,  July  and  August, 
while  their  more  northern  neighbours,  along  Lake 
Erie,  are  wholly  exempted  from  these  inconve- 
niences. This  town  has  neither  stone  nor  lime 
convenient  for  building ;  but  being  blessed  with 
abundance  of  good  wood,  their  houses  are  built 
entirely  of  this  material.  They  likewise  build  a 
considerable  number  of  boats,  which  always  find  a 
ready  market  below.  I  shall  defer  giving  you  a 
description  of  the  boats  made  use  of  on  the  west- 
ern waters,  until  I  have  a  better  opportunity  of 
examining  them,  especially  as  I  am  informed  I 
shall  find  a  considerable  variety  below,  not  made 
use  of  near  the  head  waters. 
1 


s  laid  out 
ief  part  of 
jse  occa- 
llage  con- 
ly  on  the 
ort.  The 
-ally  of  a 
aracter  of 

very  late 
ed  a  very 
e  percep- 
ir  melons 
lis.  Seve- 
fie,  that  it 
ere  frosts 

August, 
3ng  Lake 

inconve- 

nor  lime 
ised  with 
are  built 
'  build  a 
lys  find  a 
ng  you  a 
the  west- 
rtunity  of 
formed  1 
not  made 


113 

Le   Beauf  Creek   is   at  present  a  very  smaU 
sti-eam,  and  when  largest  not  more  than  two  rods 
wide.     It  ,s,  however,  advantageously  situated  to 
collect   and   receive   in  its  channel   the  showers 
which  fall  on  the  iieighbouring  hills ;  so  that  five 
or  SIX  hours  of  any  considerable  rain  will,  in  twen- 
ty-four after,  raise  the  creek  to  a  height  of  two  feet. 
Advantage  is  always  taken  of  these  partial  freshes, 
and  ,f  you  are  ready  to  start  before  the  waters  fall 
you  can  always  make  a  good  passage.   There  was' 
a  very  handsome  fre.h  I  am  informed  last  week, 
when  the  creek  rose  to  four  feet,  and  afforded  an 
excellent  opportunity  for  descending  the  river- 
however,  as  I  did  not  arrive  in  time  for  that  con-' 
veyance,  i  must  wait  for  the  next.     The  sky  at 
preser^t  looks  somewhat  promising,  yet,  should  I 
be  disappomted,  and  no  rain  fall  within  a  day  or 
two  at  forthest,  I  shall  purchase  a  small  skiff,  so 
light  that  where  she  will  not  swim,  we  can  jump 
out  (Indian  hke)  and  carry  her  over  a  shoal.     L 
has  already  so  much  experience  that  he  can  see  a 
rock  that  stands  above  the  water  nearly  as  far  as 
myself.     I  shall  not,  therefore,  hesitate  to  make 
him  my  first  mate.     You  shall  hear  from  me  again 
at  Pittsburgh.  ^ 


Yours, 


VOL.  I. 


c.  s. 


114 


LETTER  XI. 

Pennsylvania,  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Du  Quesne, 

September  9,  1807. 


f     ) 


Dear  Friend, 

AFTER  a  passage  of  six  days  I  at  length 
arrived  at  the  metropolis  and  emporium  of  this 
western  world;  but,  before  I  proceed  to  say  any 
thing  of  this  rising  and  flourishing  little  city,  I 
must  return  to  J^e  Beauf,  and  accompany  you 
down  the  river. 

As  I  always  consider  myself  a  favourite  candi- 
date for  fortune's  favour,  when  no  great  game  is 
at  stake,  so  it  happened  at  Le  Beauf;  for  on 
the  Saturday  night  after  my  last  it  raintd  inces- 
santly,  and  on  Monday  morning  the  whole  little 
village  was  in  confusion  with  the  preparations  made 
the  preceding  day  for  starting  off  with  the  first  of 
the  flood.  There  were  eight  boats  in  company, 
the  largest  of  which  hud  one  hundred  barrels  of 
salt  on  board. 

After   leaving    the  town,   and   descending  Lc 
Beauf  Creek  for  half  a  mile,  we  entered  a  small 


»M  Quesne, 
807. 


at  length 
Lim  of  this 
to  say  any 
ittle  city,  I 
npany  you 

arite  candi- 
eat  game  is 
if;  for  on 
lintd  inces- 
whole  little 
ations  made 
I  the  first  of 
in  company, 
d  barrels  of 

cending  Le 
ered  a  small 


lis 

stagnant  pool,  likewise  named  Lake  Le  Beauf, 
being  about  two  miles  in  circumlerence ;  passing 
thence  through  the  outlet  five  miles  farther,  we  en- 
tered French  Creek,  which  comes  in  from  the  left 
hand  side.  This  stream  is  about  sixty  yards  wide, 
and  of  a  very  gentle  current,  except  in  some  few 
places,  where  it  is  obstructed  by  logs,  drift-wood, 
or  sand  shallows.     From  its  size  and  appearance 
It  may  with  propriety  be  denominated  a  river  ;  yet, 
it  is  very  shallow,    and   consequently  boats  are 
subject  to  run  aground.     When   this   happens, 
all  hands  jump  overboard,  and,  with  the  united 
exertions  of  two  or  three  boats'  crews,  generally 
make  out  to  lift  and  shove  a  boat  over  the  worst  of 
the  shoals. 

After  descending  the  stream  fifty-seven  miles 
we  arrived  at  Meadville,  a  very  thriving  and  re- 
spectable village,  containing  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  houses,  and  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  creek.  The  country  from  Fort  Le  Beauf  to 
Meadville,  on  either  side  of  the  stream,  is  a  rich 
level  tract  of  land,  improving  very  fast ;  and  the 
land  immediately  around  Meadville  is  a  beautiful 
rich  meadow,  yielding  already  great  quantities  of 
grain  and  other  produce,  as  well  as  considerable 
droves  of  excellent  cattle  for  transportation. 

About  half  a  mile  below  this  town  the  Cassawa 
Creek  falls  into  French  Creek,  and  is  navigable 
for  I  ght  craft  about  ten  miles.  From  Meadville 
we  descended  thirty    miles,   passing   a   number 


f,Mrwt= 


"  —- »i: 


•■<»K 


116 


of  scattered  settlements,  but  no  town  until  we 
arrived  at  Franklinville,  (Fort  Franklin,)  situated  on 
the  right  hand  side,  at  the  junction  of  French 
Creek  and  Alleghany  River.  This  little  place 
contains  no  more  than  ten  houses  ;  it  was  a  post 
of  consequence  during  our  late  Indian  wars ;  and 
the  block -house  and  pickets  of  the  old  garrison 
still  retain  a  tolerable  appearance.  It  lies  in  lati- 
tude 41.  24.  N.  and  79.  50.  W. 

Tlie  length  of  French  Creek  is  about  one  hun- 
dred rniles,  and,  throughout  the  whole  of  this  dis- 
tance it  is  bounded  on  both  sides  by  tracts  of  low, 
rich  lands,  among  which  are  several  natural  prai- 
ries, producing  a  strong  luxuriant  grass,  unob- 
structed by  the  growth  of  a  single  tree.  These 
tracts,  until  very  lately,  have  generally  been  con- 
sidered as  of  a  light  soil ;  but  experience  has 
shown  them  to  be  of  the  first  quality.  Here  the 
emigrant  may  knock  up  a  hut  on  the  day  of  his 
arrival,  set  fire  to  the  grass  on  the  next,  and  on 
the  third  may  plough  up  a  field  ;  his  only  difiiculty 
is  that  of  fencing.  Although  I  am  of  opinion 
that  a  tract  of  half  prairie  and  half  wood  land  must 
be  a  most  desirable  f\cquisition  to  a  new  settler, 
yet  I  have  strong  doubts  whether  a  tract  of  the 
former,  situated  from  one  to  five  miles  from  any 
wood  land,  from  whence  all  fuel,  fencing  and 
building  stuff  must  be  drawn,  can  be  so  eligible  a 
situation  as  at  first  strikes  our  fancy. 


until  we 
ituated  on 
)f  French 
ttle  place 
as  a  post 
vars;  and 
i  garrison 
is  in  lati- 

one  hun- 
f  this  dis- 
'Xs  of  low, 
tural  prai- 
ss,  unob- 
;.  These 
been  con- 
ience  has 

Here  the 
day  of  his 
ict,  and  on 
'  difficulty 
>f  opinion 
land  must 
iw  settler, 
let  of  the 
I  from  any 
icing  and 
I  eligible  a 


111 

The  Alleghany  river  is  certainly  the  most  beau- 
tiful  stream  of  water  that  I  have  ever  seen  ;  it  is  as 
clecir  and  transparent  as  the  lakes,  and  its  current 
as  gentle  as  can  be^  wished,  while  its  bed  is  so 
very  little  obstructed  by  shoals  that  ft  may  be  na- 
vigated  in  safety.  It  is  true,  when  the  water  is 
low,  you  will  find  here  and  there  a  rock  lodged  in 
the  channel ;  but,  as  it  is  always  necessary  to  have 
a  pilot  on  board,  when  descending  with  loaded 
bo'ats,  they  are  so  well  acquainted  with  these  little 
obstructions  that  an  accident  seldom  or  ever  oc 
curs. 

This  river  takes  its  rise  in  Pennsylvania,  near 
the  State  of  New- York,  where  it  passes  a  short 
distance  into  the  latter,  and  returns  into  the  former  ; 
thence  running  the  whole  of  the  remainder  of  its 
course  through  this  State,  until  its  junction  with 
the  Monongahela  at  Pittsburgh.  It  is  navigable 
for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles. 

Another  head  water  of  this  river  takes  its  rise  in 
Chautaughque  Lake,  situate  in  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  State  of  New- York ;  thence  passing 
down  the  Connewango  River,  falls  into  the  Alle- 
ghany, about  twenty  miles  after  it  passes  the  boun- 
dary line  between  the  States  of  New- York  and 
Pennsylvania.  This  route,  as  I  have  before  no- 
ticed, being  much  the  shortest,  and  aftbrding  a 
much  easier  portage  between  the  two  lakes,  will, 
in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  be  preferred  to  that 
of  French  Creek  and  Le  Beauf ;  but,  as  at  present, 


^immmif0'-.--r<^' 


118 


from  the  want  of  hands  and  boats,  it  does  not  in- 
sure so  certain  or  ready  a  conveyance  ;  it  is  very 
little  frc'ciuented,  and  its  advantages  consequently 
but  very  little  know.i. 

After  leaving  Fort  Franklin  about  nine  miles, 
we  were  shown  a  large  rock,  on  the  left  shore 
of  the  river,  which  is  known  by  the  name  of 
"  Indian's  God."  I  had  the  curiosity  to  land,  in 
order  to  examine  the  "  outlandish  marks"  which 
were  sitid  to  be  inscribed  upon  ii;  but,  upon  investi- 
gation, found  they  were  nothing  more  than  the  ac- 
cidental crevices  made  by  time,  which  might  well 
enough  pass  for  Arabic  or  Chaldaic  characters  with 
those  who  could  not  read  their  own  mother 
tongue. 

The  Alleghany  River,  at  its  junction  with 
French  Creek,  is  about  twenty  yards  wide,  and 
continues  gradually  to  increase  as  you  descend. 
The  junction  ol'  Toby  Creek  with  the  main  river 
takes  place  from  the  left  hand  side,  about  forty-five 
miles  below  Fort  Franklin ;  it  is  a  handsome 
stream,  about  foity  yards  wide,  and  navigable  for 
small  craft  fifty  miles.  Fifteen  miles  lower  we 
perceived  Sandy  Lick  Creek  coming  in  from  the 
same  side.  This  stream  is  somewhat  larger  than  the 
former,  yet  not  navigable  for  quite  the  same  dis- 
tance. Passing  thence  seven  miles,  we  crossed  the 
mouth  of  Mahoning  Creek.  This  stream  is  about 
fort^  yards  wide,  falls  in  from  the  left  hand  side, 
and  is  also  navigable  for  small  craft.  Alter  having 


119 


es  not  in* 
it  is  very 
sequeptly 

tie  miles, 
eft  shore 
name  of 
)  land,  in 
s"  which 
>n  investi- 
m  the  ac- 
iight  well 
cters  with 
1   mother 

ion  with 
vide,  and 

descend, 
(lain  river 
forty-five 
landsome 
igable  for 
ower  we 

from  the 
r  than  the 
same  dis- 
•ossed  the 
I  is  about 
land  side, 
cr  having 


descended  eighty-five  miles  from  Fort  Franklin, 
we  arrived  at  the  town  of  Armstrong,  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  This,  being  as  yet  quite 
a  new  settlement,  contains  no  more  than  twenty 
houses. 

The  land  on  both  sides  of  this  river,  for  the 
whole  distance,  from  the  junction  of  French  Creek 
to  this  last  named  town,  is  a  high,  rough  and 
mountainous  country,  and  scarcely  worth  cultiva- 
tion along  the  banks  of  the  river.  Thisobserva- 
tion,  however,  I  am  informed,  does  nof  hold  good 
after  you  recede  a  mile  or  two  from  the  margin  of 
the  river,  where  the  land  improves  rapidly,  both  in 
quality  and  appearance. 

Twelve  miles  below  the  town  of  Armstrong, 
and  from  the  same  JJe,  the  Kiskemanitas  River 
forms  its  junction  with  the  Alleghany ;  it  is  the 
largest  tributary  stream  you  pass  on  the  main  river ; 
is  seventy  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  navigable 
for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifteen  miles. 
The  acquisition  of  this  stream  is  immediately  per- 
ceptible, as  the  Alleghany  now  acquires  a  breadth 
of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  Three  miles 
below  the  Kiskemanitas,  and  on  the  opposite  side, 
we  were  instructed  to  look  out  for  a  small  town 
called  Freeport.     This  town  brought  to  my  recol- 
lection  the  story  of  "  a  country  lad  coming  with 
"  his  father  to  see  the  town,  but  could  never  get  a 
"  sight  of  it  for  the  vast  number  of  houses."     So 


120 


: 


l! 


4 


here  I  could  not  see  the  houses  for  the  trees,  as 
tliose  intended  for  the  buildings  had  not  yet  been 
cut  down.  Immediately  below  this  town,  and  on 
the  siimc  side,  you  pass  BufFuloe  Creek,  whigh  is 
about  thirty  yards  wide,  but  not  navigable.  From 
thence  we  descended  thirty  miles  more,  without 
meeting  with  any  thing  worthy  of  notice,  until  we 
arrived  at  Pittsburgh,  which  is  reckoned  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles  from  the  head  waters  of  Le 
Beauf. 

As  I  write  wholly  for  your  amusement,  I  know 
you  will  not  be  displeased  if  I  entertain  you  occa- 
sionally with  an  account  of  some  of  my  exploits  and 
achievements,  as  one  of  the  mighty  hunters  of  the 
western  wilderness ;  and,  therefore,  with  beqpming 
pride,  inform  you  that,  on  my  passage  to  this  place, 
I  shot  a  bear!  yes,  sir,  I  repeat  it,  I  shot  a  bear!  !  and 
a  big  one  too  he  was.  The  particulars  are  worth  re- 
cording,  and  are  as  follows  :  While  we  were  de- 
scending the  river  one  of  our  hands  discovered  a 
large  bear  swimming  across  the  stream  ;  we  exert- 
ed our  utmost  force  to  overtake  him  before  he 
could  reach  the  shore,  which,  by  dint  of  hard  row- 
ing, we  ettected.  The  captain  and  myself  stood 
ready  in  the  bow  to  fire  whenever  we  thought  our- 
selves sufficiently  near  for  that  purpose.  I  pulled 
my  trigger,  but  my  gun  flashed  in  the  pan.  The 
captain  then  pulled  his,  and  shot  the  bear  dead. 
Not  knowing  whether  I  should  ever  have  anothe*' 


~T'.-^i-,#     »^  »ir.  »  '  ' 


"If.-j^.m 


.?;"<?,■  J, ',!«••*'•■' 


121 

chance  ,0  shoo,  such  a  monster.  I  recollected 
Falstaff's  fight  with    Percy."  so  primed  and 
pulled  mgger  once  more,  and  shot  the  bear  too. 
Although  the  shot  just,  mentioned  was  not  ex- 
actly  m  pouit  of  time  what  I  could  wish,  yet  you 
must  know   .hut  on  the  same  day,  I  really  and 
J^l'-M"  shot  a  deer  ou  the  edge  of  the  bank 
of  the  nver.     This  being  the  fi„,  I  had  shot,  al- 
though I  had  seen  dozens  of  them  before,  inclines 
me  to  thmk  Ae  sfielt  is  broken.  I  discovered  him 
as  we  descended  the  river  ,  and,  as  he  had  not  yet 

we  had  drifted  close  upon  him.  without  his  beinit 
m  the  least  alarmed  ,  when  I  fired,  and  killed  him 
on  the  spot,  without  any  previous  asmtancc-  from 
the  eaptain.     You  would  have  been  highly  di 
verted  could  you  have  taken  a  peep  at  our  party 
while  preparing  and  eating  our  supper  on  t  J 
evening.  You  will  please  to  remember  that,  as  we 
lodge  every  night  under  the  canopy  of  heavn  we 
are  not  so  much  troubled  with  preparing  out  bed 
as  with  preparing  our  food,  and,  as  our  cook  b 
not  over  and  above  cleanly,  („o,  having  any  thing 
better  than  a  handful  of  leaves  to  wi^  '.i;  uten      • 
sils,)  I  prefer  attending  to  a  broil  for  myself.  We 
had  made  choice  on  that  evening  of  a  place  for 
our  encampment,  where  a  very  large  pine  xr^  had 
been  blown  down  by  some  storm ,  and,  in  a  few 
mmutes.  our  different  crews  had  kindled  as  many 

VOL.   I.  _  J 


fl  -^ 


•    ■  V'^'J 


■^ 


**^.l 


'*'■  "♦: 


"T-IT" 


\IA 


'i% 


I 

■'fi 


. 


k 


,122 

firps,  which  soon  spread  along  the  whole  tnmk  of 
the  tree,  not  kss  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
ui  length,  a;-.d  exhibited  as  picturesqae  a  groupe 
as  ever  was  seen.  Every  man  being  provided 
with  a  forked  stick,  with  a  piece  of  venison  stuck 
up(in  one  end,  was  endeavouring  to  broU  or  roast 
his  portion  as  best  suited  his  fancy.  Some  would 
let  it  fall  into  the  fire ;  others,  who  had  laid  it  on 
coals  to  broil,  could  not  again  approach  near 
enough  to  siive  it  from  burning,  as  the  fire  became 
so  great,  and  tlie  heat  so  intense,  as  to  keep  them 
at  a  distance.  Those  who  had  succeeded  stuck 
one  end  of  their  forked  stick  in  the  ground,  with 
the  venison  susjxmded  upon  the  other ;  while, 
with  a  piece  of  bread  in  one  hand,  and  a  knife  in 
the  odier,  they  contentedly  devoured  it  as  fast  as 
it  cooled.  Our  company  consisting  of  forty-two 
persons,  the  deer  did  not  furnish  an  overabundant 
supper,  nothing  being  left  for  the  morrow. 

I  had  never  seen  a  wild  turkey  before  i  descend- 
ed  this  river,  where  I  had  an  opportunity  of  shoot- 
ing a  great  many.  They  are  very  plentiiul  in  this 
quarter,  and  considered  the  largest  known  through- 
out  the  western  countrj',  many  of  them  weighing 
from  thirty  to  forty  pounds,  and  sometimes  so 
overburthencd  with  fat  that  thiy  fly  with  difficulty. 
It  frequently  happens,  that  after  shooting  one  on 
a  tree,  you  will  find  him  bursted  by  falling  on  the 
trround  ;  thev  are  remarkably  tame,  and,  if  alarm- 
ed,  generally  take  to  a  tree,  especially  if  disturbed 


^    -"S 


^-m-t: 


«,■*■«?»— 


e  trunk  of 
went}'  feet 

I  a  groupe 
provided 

ison  stuck 
>il  or  roast 
)me  would 
,  laid  it  on 
oach  near 
ire  became 
keep  them 
ded  stuck 
>und,  with 
;r ;  while, 
a  knife  in 
:  as  fast  as 
f  forty-two 
erabundant 
ow. 

i  descend- 

ty  of  shoot- 

tiful  in  this 

n  through- 

II  weighing 
[letimes  so 
1  difficulty, 
ing  one  on 
ling  on  the 
d,  if  alarm- 
if  disturbed 


123 

by  a  dog.  1  found  my  air  gun  of  great  use  in 
shooting  this  game,  for  if  there  were  five  or  six  of 
them. upon  one  tree,  I  was  always  sure  of  bringing 
them  all  down. 

This  river  affords  fine  pike  and  cat  fish  ;  many 
of  those  I  Caught  weighed  thirty  pounds  and  up- 
wards.  There  is  no  great  variety  of  small  fish  in  the 
main  river ;  nOr  is  there  much  chance  of  taking  any 
of  the  larger  kind  during  the  day  time,  unless  you 
troll  with  a  very  long  line ;  but  by  setting  your 
bait  at  night  in  the  little  bays  and  eddies,  you  will 
generally  prove  successful.  I  have  been  well  as- 
sured that  this  river  produces  a  fish  which,  from 
its  resemblance  to  the  alligator,  is  called  the  Alle- 
ghany  alligator  fish.  Those  who  have  seen  them 
assure  me  they  are  perfectly  harmless,  and  never 
exceed  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  in  length.  Not- 
withstimding,  during  the  whole  navigation  of  this 
river,  I  was  constantly  on  the  look  out  to  get  a 
sight  of  this  fish,  yet  1  never  succeeded,  and,  there- 
fore, am  unable  either  to  confirm  or  deny  the  ex- 
istence  of  this  non  descript. 

I  have  seen  very  few  Indians  since  I  left  Lake 
Erie,  excepting  a  few  Sanduskies,  who  had  been 
at  the  council  meeting  held  at  Buffaloe,  and  whom 
I  met,  as  they  passed  through  Presque  Isle,  on 
their  way  home.  We  likewise  passed  half  a  do- 
zen canoes  full  belonging  to  the  Cornplanters, 
a  tribe    settled   on  the  head  waters  of  the  Alle- 


'^*i^^" 


'"•>r" 


124 


I 


;,<      i 


ghany,  and  which,  I  am  told,  is  the  only  one 
that  has  prohibited  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors 
to  its  members.  Whenever  an  individual  breaks 
through  this  regulation  he  is  discarded  from  the 
tribe,  and  for  ever  after  deemed  infamous. 

Pittsburgh  is  most  charmingly  situated  upon  a 
point  of  land  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Mo- 
nongahela  and  the  Alleghany  Rivers,  which  here 
give  rise  to  the  celebrated  Ohio.  The  natural  ad- 
vantages which  this  place  possesses  are  so  great, 
that  it  may  justly  be  considered  as  the  metropolis 
of  the  western  country.  It  contains  between 
four  and  five  hundred  houses,  many  of  which 
would  be  called  elegant  even  in  the  city  of  New- 
York.  From  the  best  information  I  could  collect, 
it  is  supposed  to  contain  at  least  two  thousand 
five  hundred  inhabitants,  the  most  of  .whom  are 
German  and  Irish  settlers,  from  various  parts  of 
Pennsylvania  and  Marvland. 

This  town  has  likewise  a  number  of  public 
buildings,  principally  built  of  brick;  among 
which  you  find  a  large  and  convenient  gaol,  court- 
house, markel-housc,  and  four  churches.  There 
are  probably  between  sixty  and  seventy  stores, 
generally  well  stocked  with  every  kind  of  goods, 
and  afforded  reasonably  cheap,  considering  the  dis- 
tance they  have  to  bring  them  over  land  from 
Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  ;  the  former,  of  which 
place)*  is  reckoned  two  hundred  and  ninety-seven 


„a~^v^' 


'tj," 


only  one 
us  liquors 
Lial  breaks 
I  from  the 
.s. 

:d  upon  a 
f  the  Mo- 
hich  here 
latural  ad- 

so  great, 
metropolis 

between 
of  which 

of  New- 
Id  collect, 
thousand 
^hom  are 
5  parts  of 

)f  public 
among 
j1,  court- 
There 
y  stores, 
>f  goods, 
;  the  dis- 
md  from 
>f  which 
ty-seven 


125 

miles,  and  the  latter  two  hundred  and  eighty.five 
miles  distant.  The  price  of  waggon  carriage  over 
this  distance  is  five  and  six  dollars  a  hundred 
pounds  weight. 

Pittsburgh  has  likewise  a  considerable  number 
of  factories  established  already,  among  which  may 
be   enumerated   distilleries,    brewerie.,    printing 
presses,  an  air  furnace,  a  glass  house,  and  cotton 
factory ;  likewise,  smaller  establishments  for  the 
manufacture  of  nails,  brushes,  ropes,  copper  ware, 
tin   ware  and  earthen   ware,   with    many  others 
too  tedious  to  mention.     A  branch  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania  bank  has  likewise  been  established  here. 
Pittsburgh  appears  to  be  in  the  "  full  tide  of  sue 
"  cessful  experiment,"  and  promises  fair,  within 
thirty  years  more,  to  be  the  largest  inland  city  in 
the  United  States.    The  climate  is  nearly  similar  to 
that  of  New- York,  being  situated  in  latitude  40. 
26.  N.  and  79.  51.  W.  and   subject  to  as  great 
and  sudden  changes  of  weather. 

Tlie  goods  intended  for  New- Orleans,  Ken- 
tucky  and  Tennessee  markets  are  principally  ship- 
ped off  from  this  place,  although,  during  the  dry 
season,  .which  generally  prevails  in  the  months  of 
August  and  September,  the  waters  are  so  low  that 
a  loaded  boat  cannot  descend  the  river.  Those 
liov/ever,  who  are  accustomed  to  navigate  this 
river,  always  make  their  calculations  accordingly, 
and  when  they  find  they  will  not  be  enabled  to 
reach  Pittsburgh  in  time,    generally  order  their 


■>  f 


126 


I  I 


■I 


Pi 


■m 


!    ! 


» 


•^'    tl 


r-i  ' 


goods  to  Wheeling,  another  town,  lying  about 
ninety  miles  lower  down  the  river,  from  whence 
the  Wdter  is  deep  enough  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year. 

The  town  of  Pittsburgh  is  abundantly  supplied 
with  fuel,  liaving  inexhaustible  mines  of  coal  in 
its  vicinity,  which,  from  the  cheapness  of  labour, 
are  delivered  at  the  houses  for  six  cents  a  bushel. 
It  is  conjectured  that  not  less  than  five  thousand 
five  hundred  chaldron  are  consumed  annually  by 
the  town  and  factories.  The  first  entry  into  Pitts- 
burgh is  not  equally  agreeable  to  every  person,  as 
the  sulphureous  vapour  arising  from  the  burning  of 
coal  is  immediately  perceptible ;  a  few  days  re- 
sidence will,  hov^^•ver,  in  a  great  measure  accus- 
tom  yoti  to  this  inconvenience.  Ship  building  is 
carried  on  here  with  considerable  spirit ;  they 
have  already  launched  about  one  dozen  brigs  and 
schooners ;  at  present  I  see  nothing  on  th*^  stocks 
Uirger  than  a  hundred  feet  barge.  Boat  buidtng^ 
boaf  buying  and  boat  sellings  seem  to  be  part  of 
the  business  of  at  least  one-half  of  the  town.  Very 
few  of  the  boats  which  come  from  the  rivers 
above,  or  are  built  in  this  towi.  and  descend  the 
river,  ever  return  again  ;  so  that  there  is  a  constant 
and  increased  demand  for  craft  of  every  descrip- 
tion. 

A  passage  from  Le  Beauf  to  this  place  will  cost 
you  two  dollars,  finding  your  own  provisions.  If 
no  opportunity  offers  you  can  have  a  small  skiff 


127 

built  in  twenty.four  hours  for  five  dollars,  which 
will  carry  two  men  and  baggage,  with  which  you 
may  descend  in  all  imaginable  safety.  For  thirty 
dollars  you  may  purchase  a  large  skiff  or  batteau, 
which  will  very  easily  carry  twelve  thousand 
weight.  The  freight  from  Le  Beauf  to  Pitts- 
burgh  is  one  dollar  a  barrel,  and  merchandise  at 
fifty  cents  a  hundred  pounds. 

The  Monongahela  River  rises  in  the  State  of 
Virginia,  at  the  foot  of  that  ridge  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Laurel  Mountains ;  it  is  navigable 
for  one  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth  at  Pitts- 
burg.  The  Youghiogany  River  falls  into  the 
Monongahela,  about  fifeen  miles  above  the  town, 
and  is  said  to  be  likewise  navigable  for  eighty 
miles. 

I  was  informed  that  there  was  a  very  curious 
cavern  about  sixty  miles  up  the  Monongahela, 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Panther's  Den.  I 
should  have  been  happy,  if  I  had  leisure  sufficient, 
to  have  visited  it,  particularly  as  I  could  not  find 
any  one  who  could  give  me  a  description  from 
their  own  personal  examination  ;  but,  as  I  have 
yet  some  thousands  of  miles  before  me,  atid  the 
water  rapidly  falling,  I  did  not  think  it  prudent  lo 
lose  time.  I  have  purchased  a  keel  bout  com- 
pletely equipped  for  my  voyage,  for  which  I  paid 
one  hundred  and  thirty  dollars.  I  have  issued 
SHiling,  or  rather  driftinsr  orders,  for  to-moiTow 


iii 
I 


„„._„.  :i*sC. 


"*<ite»* 


128 

morning,  when  I  shall  commence  my  voyage  on 
« La  BeUe  Riviere."  You  will  probably  hear 
from  me  again  when  I  arrive  at  Marietta,  when  I 
shall  endeavour  to  give  you  some  accpunt  of  the 
different  kind  of  boats  in  use  on  these  waters. 


if'    *'■ 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


t 


■*''^ 


c.  s. 


^ 


■^1  •;;;/K5V 


•^w^iHr 


«3fcH*fc 


'Hf 


w 


Ohm 
Dear  '. 

m\ 

count  < 

on  thes 

your  ci 

of  craft 

perrogu 

suflicier 

twelve  t 

all  sizes, 

pounds  \ 

as  the  lai 

by  either 

these  wat 

fer  to  tho 

Kentucky 

fomi,  var 

length,  an 

are  built  o 

are  sided  i 

VOL.  r. 


I 


-*^%, 


129 


^fTTEn  XII. 

^^">'     f^rietfa,  (Fort  Barm^ 


Rear  Frier,  J, 


^r,)  Sept.  20,  1807. 


IN  my  last  I  promisi  H  ♦«     • 
count  of  the  mJJZ^L  If  T,  '"  "™  ''^- 
on  these  waters  anA?  n  ^""  ""*    '«  of 

of  cn.f.  i„  „^  ,„,  ,i        J-'-  J^te  smallest  kind 

Pe^eues.  which  ^  a  ,      ^.  ^nd  of  """  '*" 
suflicienUy    strone-  anri  .       •         "'^'^^no^'    but 

»«  sizes,  from  Sve  h„n^  T'     ®*"=b«atof 
pounds  weight  burthen      b1'°  '"""'^  "«»'«'"d 
as  the  larger  tindrfl^ff,^'"'!"''"^  "^  *e  sa,„e 
by  either^name     Art't  """^  '"**«"%  known 
these  waters;  what  til  r      ""'  """*  '"  "«  '" 

^-o  those  ;ou*:Jrsel;T-?rT'"^- 
Kentucky  boats  are  st  .„"   fr  *    «"»J"*»nna;- 

form,  varying  i„  si,,  frn      /  °   ^  ""on,. 

'eng'h,  and  LI  ^n  ,o  &"«        ''  '°  '""  '   ' '" 

-built  of  stou.sq.^iTl'r"     **^- 

--  sided  and  ^ofe'  i„,  Z^Ltt      ""  *^^ 

vol.  r.  '  ^""""^h 'he  appearance 

A 


•^■^;f?at- 


^jrtr'J'''*' 


■I 


if 


If 


130 

of  old  graving  scows,  excepting  that  the  front 
part  or  bow    has    somtwhut  of   a  rake.      The 
gunwales  ai«   generally    from  twelve  to  twenty, 
four  inches  high,  and  from  three  to  six  inches 
thick  ;  on  the  top  of  these  are  mortised  square 
joist  of  three  or  four  feet  in  length,  and  four  or 
five  inches  thick,  which  are  sided  up  like  a  house 
with  ordinary  boards ;  on  the  top  of  these  studs 
are  secured  the  foot  of  each  rafter,  over  which  the 
roof  is  laid,  which  likewise  answers  the  purpose  of 
a  main  and  (luarter  deck  ;  they  arc  steered  by  a 
long  swing  oar  of  the  whole  length  of  the  boat,  and 
generally  have  from  one  to  tliiee  hands  to  manage 
a  boat,  having  frequent  occasion,  when  heavily 
loadexl,  to  use  ^heir  unwieldy  oars,  in  order  to 
keep  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  river.     Some  of 
these  floating  machines,  with  a  shed  roof,  bear  a 
very  striking  resemblance  to  what  you  daily  see  in 
the  streets  of  Ncw-York,  where  new  houses  are 
building,   and    generally    Renominated    a    lime- 
house. 

New- Orleans  boats  are  built  upon  the  same 
model  as  the  Kentucky  boats,  excepting  that  they 
'^  are  generally  much  larger  and  stronger,  with 
an  arched  roof  fore  and  aft.  When  I  first  saw  a 
row  of  these  boats  lying  high  and  dry  on  the  shore 
at  Pittsburgh,  I  really  concluded  'hey  were  de- 
tached  pieces  of  some  large  rope- walk  which  had 
been  carried  off  bv  the  freshes  from  above.  The 
largest  boats  of  this  kind  will  carry  four  hundred 


■M 


t. 


'  dfilK^^wfk\f-^ 


'^^^. 


,*,: 


131 


he  front 
.      The 

twenty - 
it  inches 
d  square 
1  four  or 
;  a  house 
ese  studs 
vhich  the 
urpose  of 
ed  by  a 
boat,  and 
3  manage 
n  heavily 

order  to 

Some  of 
of,  bear  a 
lily  see  in 
louses  are 

a    lime- 

the  same 
;  that  they 
iger,  with 
lirst  saw  a 
1  the  shore 
■  were  de- 
which  had 
)ve.  The 
ir  hundred 


and  fifty  barrels  of  flour.  Keel  Ijoats  arc  very  dif- 
ferent fi  om  what  their  name  would  seem  to  imply 
to  a  strauf^er  who  has  never  seen  one,  especially 
to  an  inhabitant  of  a  sea-port,  where  the  name 
is  always  applied  to  siiiling  boats,  piirticulnrly 
those  kinds  that  can  beat  up  against  a  wind.  Here, 
however,  it  is  given  to  a  species  of  the  S(,hen<:c- 
tady  boats,  which  you  will  find  particularly  dc- 
scribtd  in  my  account  of  the  navigation  of  the 
M-ohawk  River.  The  principal  diftlrence  con- 
sists in  this,  that  the  timbers  or  knees  of  these  are 
built  upon  a  small  keel,  about  three  inches  in 
depth,  and  four  or  five  in  width  ;  from  which  cir- 
cumstimce  they  are  denominai..d  keel  boats.  I 
have  no  douljt  but  the  keel  is  an  additional 
strength  to  the  boat,  as  it  receives  the  first  shock 
of  any  obstruction  m  the  navigation,  which  other- 
wise would  fall  immediately  upon  the  planking ; 
but  at  the  same  time  it  makes  a  draft  of  three 
inches  more  water  than  Schenectady  boats  of  the 
same  size  and  burthen.  These  boiUs  are  generally 
built  from  forty  to  eighty  feet  in  length,  and  from 
seven  to  nine  feet  in  width ;  the  largest  kind  re- 
quire but  one  hand  to  steer  and  two  to  row,  in 
descending  the  Ohio,  and  will  carry  aljout  one 
hundred  barrels  of  salt ;  but,  to  ascend  the  stream, 
they  will  require  at  least  six  or  eight  hands  to 
make  any  considerable  progress. 

The  last  and  best  kind  of  boats  used  on  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  is  what  is  called  a  baige. 


e%-. 


I 

4 


132 

You  will  have  a  tclemble  correct  idea  of  this  kind 
^vhen  you  see  a  ship's  longboat,  or  those  used  at 
the  feiTy  from  the  city  of  New- York  to  Long 
Island,  adding  thereto  about  three  times  the  length 
and  a  proportionable  depth,  their  width  being  ge- 
nerally between  seven  and  ten  feet.     These  boats 
are  steered  by  a  rudder,  and  are  easily  managed 
while  they  have  any  war/  upon  them ;  but  when 
descending  with  the  force  of  the  current  alone,  are 
not  so  easily  twisted  and  turned  as  a  keel  bolt  is 
by  her  long  steering  oar.  A  barge  will  carry  from 
forty  to  sixty  thousand  weight,  and  requires  four 
hands  besides  the  helmsman  to  descend  the  river ; 
but,  to  return  with  a  loading,  from  eight  to  twelve 
become  necessary.     Barges,  as  well  as  keel  boats, 
generally  carry  a  moveable  mast  a-midships,  and, 
whenever  the  wind  will  permit,  set  a  square-sail, 
and  some  few  top-sails.     A  small  fleet  of  si.^^  or 
seven  of  these  vessels  coming  up  before  a  wind 
at  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  is  equally  as 
pleasing  a  sight  in  this  countiy,  as  an  equal  num- 
ber of  the  largest  square-rigged  vessels  entering 
the  harbour  of  New- York. 

The  prices  of  the  various  kinds  of  boats  already 
described  are  as  follows  :  Canoes  from  one  to 
three  dollars  ;  perrogues  from  five  to  twenty ; 
small  skiffs  from  five  to  ten  dollars  ;  large  skiffs 
or  batteaux  from  twenty  to  fifty ;  arks  one  dol- 
Irr  a  foot  in  length ;  Kentucky  and  New-Orleims 
boats  from  one  dollar  to  one  and  a  half  a  foot ; 
keel  boats  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  dollars  I 


153 

b,„  T  .u  '^"="™'"7  prices  for  new  boats  • 
but  from  the  constan.  influx  of  boats  of  everv  dl' 
-np„o„  do™  the  Monongahela  and  AlW«„r 
R.vers  whose  destination  is  no  farther  than  Pi ./ 
burgh,  b<.ats  may  often  be  had  at  ven^" du"d 

a^rnt"fT  I  '"^'  ^'""^  '"rougir::;'":; 

aecount  of  the  .A^^,„^  of  j^is  western  world  I 

.■us  town  to  Fort  M'Intosh  is  th'Jit     Z 
hndcontn,ues  high  on  both  sides' of  S  hI^T 

every  eonsiden.b,e  CoU^  oTT  "'* 
*ese  heights  are  said  to  be  vet  exe  Lt .    T'  °' 
the  produce,  which  is  whea^mrh       '        ' "'"' 
We  «>»  the  bottoms,  wh   h  vWd  "":".P™«'^- 
corn.     Before  I   left   Pit^b^^'f  ?  T^  '"' 

"  Navigator,"  a  kind  of  "t?"  or'"  H^f' 
"  Moore,"  for  these  water;  .,'],  1  "r"'°" 
PWet,  but  contains  a  gre  L  J  r?""  '""• 
cellaneous  inform.tinn        ^  '^''  ="""  ■"'=" 

b'e  to  a  stranger        "'  "  P"^^"''"'^  -™-'- 

Fort  M'Intosh,  or    as  if  So 
Beaver,  is  a  s„.al  vi  L;         owrf"?"  ""^''' 
houses,  lying  i„_,He  Sta'    o    vZZl:^'''  ""^ 
"8fc  bank  of  the  river.     Big  b"  vT  r      .  °"  "'' 

-'-^'-theo,.iojnst^trthe:tr. 


M 


m 


134 

give,  name  to  the  village.  This  stream  furnishes 
a  number  of  very  valuable  mill- seats,  within  the 
distance  of  four  miles  from  the  river ;  and  has 
likewise  been  said  to  afford  an  easy  communica- 
tion  by  a  short  portage  with  Lake  Erie  ;  but,  on 
inquiry,  I  am  informed  it  can  never  be  used  by 
any  thing  larger  than  a  canoe. 

Ten  miles  lower,  on  the  left  side,  lies  George- 
town,  consisting  of  fifteen  houses,  and  borders  on 
tht  State  of  Virginia.     The  character  of  George- 
to^vn    is  not  much  esteemed  by  the  navigators 
of  the  Ohio ;     it  is  particularly  pointed  out  as 
being  inhabited  by  a  set  of  quarrelsome  fellows, 
amongst    whom    their    chief  magistrate    is  said 
to  be  a  very   prominent  character.     About  two 
miles  below  Georgetown  you  cross  the  dividing 
line  between  the  States  of  Pennsylvania;,  and  Vir- 
ginia, on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  river;   an<^  be- 
tween the  Suites  of  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  on  the 
right  hand  side.     Five  miles  below  the  line,  you 
arrive  at  the  first  post  town  in  the  State  of  Ohio ; 
it  contains  two  houses,  and  if  it  has  a  name  I 
have  forgotten  it.     This  place  is  on  the  right  hand 
side  of  the  river. 

Descending  thence  twelve  miles  we  arrived  at 
Steubenville,  a  handsome,  flourishing  town,  situa- 
ted on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  likewise  in  the 
State  of  Ohio ;  it  contains  about  one  hundred  and 
thirty  houses,  has  a  number  of  genteel  brick 
buildings,  and  several  stores  well  stocked  witli 


135 


rumishcs 
ithin  the 

and  has 
imunica- 
;  but,  on 

used  by 

George- 
orders  on 

George- 
lavigators 
d  out  as 
e  fellows, 
e  is  said 
bout  two 
;  dividing 

and  Vir- 
;  and  be- 
iiio  on  the 

line,  vou 

of  Ohio; 
a  name  I 
right  hand 

arrived  at 
3wn,  situa- 
kvise  in  the 
uidred  and 
iteel  biick 
icked  with 


every  kind  of  merchandise.  Superfine  flour  was 
selling  here  at  the  same  price  as  at  Pittsburgh, 
which  was  from  three  dollars  to  three  and  a  half 
a  barrel ;  Indian  com  at  twenty  cents  a  bushel,  and 
other  articles  of  produce  in  proportion. 

Charlestown  is  also  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river,  in  the  State  of  Virginia,  and 
only  seven  miles  from  Steubenville ;  it  contains 
about  one  hundred  and  ten  houses,  is  a  county  town, 
and  has  a  flourishing  earthen  ware  manufactory. 
Buffaloe  Creek  is  a  capital  mill  stream,  and  falls 
hito  the  Ohio,  about  three  miles  below  Mingo 
Bottom,  so  called  from  its  having  been  the  resi- 
dence of  a  tribe  of  that  name,  whose  chief  is 
celebrated  for  hi*  powers  of  oratory  and  his  un- 
meriteC*  misfortunes  in  the  Notes  on  Virginia.* 

*  In  the  year  1774  a  ba«Ie  «m  fought  near  the  present 
town  of  Point  Pleasant,  at  the  motnh  of  (iw.  Great  Kanawa 
River,  between  the  united  tribes  ^  the  Shawi«»««  and  Min- 
goes,  and  a  party  of  the  VirgtoK*  niMtia.  The  Indians 
were  completely  routed,  and  sued  Ijr  «  peace  Logan 
(whose  family  had  been  most  cruelly  W&5liered,  in  cold 
blood,  by  a  wretch  of  tlie  name  of  Cre^jup)  hitd  taken  a 
very  active  part  in  the  wur,  yet  scorned  to  be  seen  with 
those  who  were  supplicating  for  a  peace,  Lest,  however, 
the  smcerity  of  others  should  be  mistrusted  on  account  of 
the  absence  of  so  distinguished  a  warrior,  he  sent  the  fol- 
lowing speech  to  Lord  Dunmore,  then  Governor  of  Vir- 
ginia : 

"  I  appeal  to  any  white  man  to  say  if  ever  he  en»«red 
"  Logan's  cabin  hungry,  and  he  gave  huii  not  meat ;  if  aver 


I 


136 


II' 


H 


% 


The  lands  about  Charld-Stown  are  not  consider- 
ed  equally  good  with  those  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Steubenville.  Nine  miles  below  Charlestown 
we  passed  a  little  town  named  Warren,  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Ohio,  and  consisting  of  thirty 
houses.  From  hence,  having  descended  ten  miles 
more,  we  arrived  at  Wheeling,  a  town  of  considera- 
ble trade  and  importance  on  these  western  waters. 
It  lies  hi  latitude  40.  5.  N.  and  80.  34.  W. 

This  town  is  situated  on  an  elevated  bank,  on 
the  left  side  of  the  river,  in  the  State  of  Virginia, 
and  contains  at  present  about  two  hundred  houses, 
amongst  which  are  a  very  considerable  number  of 

"  he  came  cold  and  naked  and   he   clothed  him  not..  Du- 
«  ring  the  course  of  the  lust  long  and  bloody  war,  Logan 
«  remuined  idle  in  his  cabin,  an  advocate  for  peace.     Such 
«  was  my  love  for  the  whites,  that  my  conntrymen,  as  they 
«  passed,  pointed,  and  said  Loffan  ia  the  friend  of  the  white 
«  men.     I  had  even   thought  to  have  lived  with  you,  but 
«  for  the  injuries  of  one  man.     Colonel  Cresap,  the  last 
«  spring,  in  cold  blood,  and  unprovoked,  murdered  all  the 
"  relations  of  Logan,  not    sparing  even  my  women    and 
«  children.     There   runs  not   a  drop  of  my  blood  in  the 
«  veins  of  any  living  creature.     This  called  on  me  for  re- 
«  venge.     I  have  sought  it :    I    have  killed  many  :    I  have 
«  glutted  my  vengeance.     For  my  country,  I  rejoice  at  the 
"  beams  of  peace  ;  but  do  not  harbour  a  thought  that  minr 
"  is  the  joy  of  fear.     Logan  never  felt  fear.    He  will  never 
«  turn  on  his  heel  to  save  his  life.     Who  is  there  to  mourn 
"  for  Logan  ?     Not  one." 

1 


I 


137 


stores,  well  supplied  with  every  kind  of  merchan- 
dise, suitable  for  the  country.  It  takes  away  a 
considerable  trade  from  Pittsburgh,  being  so 
situated  that  vessels  may  descend  from  it  during 
the  dryest  seasons  of  the  year;  many  of  the 
lower  country  merchants,  therefore,  prefer  send- 
ing their  goods  over  land  to  this  place,  rather  than 
risk  a  detention  of  three  or  four  weeks  at  Pitts- 
burgh.' 

A  mail  stage  arrives  at  Wheeling  regularly 
twice  a  week  from  Philadelphia,  and  another  line 
continues  on  to  Lexington,  the  capital  of  Ken- 
tucky, so  that  this  town  may  fairly  be  considered 
as  within  the  limits  of  the  old  settlements. 

The  land  immediately  in  the  vicinity  of  Wheel- 
ing  is  rough  and  mountainous  ;  but,  at  some  little 
distance  back,  improves  very  fast.     Considerable 
boat  building  is  likewise  carried  on  at  this  place ; 
and,  if  I  may  judge  from  the  stock  of  one  man, 
bear   raising  must  be  either  an  employment  of 
profit  or  pleasure,  as  he  had  no  less  than  five  of 
these  monsters,  all  nearly  full  grown,  chained  to  as 
many  posts  in  the  front  of  his  house  ;  and,  accord- 
ing to  his  own  expression,  "  would  rather  lose  his 
"  child  than  one  of  them."  This  town  is  reckoned 
to  be  about  ninety  miles  distant  from  Pittsburgh, 
according  to  the  meanders  of  the  river.     Wheel- 
ing Creek  falls  into  the  Ohio  about  half  a  mile  be- 
low the  town,  and  aftbrds  some  excellent  mill- 


VOL.  I. 


138 

»eats.  Not  far  from  its  mouth  is  stiU  to  be  seen 
the  remains  of  the  old  fort. 

Seven  miles  below  Wheeling  we  passed  a  little 
deserted  village,  of  six  or  seven  cabins,  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and  named  Pultney. 
I  could  not  learn  from  what  cause  it  had  been 
abandoned,  but  presume  its  inhabitants  must  have 
been  of  that  class  of  people  denominated  Squat- 
ters,  who,  not  having  any  title,  had  been  ordered  off 
by  the  proprietors.  From  Pultney  down  to  Grave 
Cif ek,  which  is  eight  miles  distant,  is  a  fine  rich 
tract  of  bottom  land,  on  the  Virginia  shore,  said 
to  be  worth  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  per  acre, 
unimproved  ;  but,  whether  it  is  owing  to  the  high 
price  of  the  land,  or  to  some  other  cause,  it  lias  very 
few  settlements  upon  it. 

I  was  informed  there  were  several  of  those  sin- 
gular and  astonishing  mounds,  which  have  exci- 
ted the  curiosity  of  travellers,  to  be  seen  near 
Grave  Creek.  We  had  already  passed  them  three  or 
four  miles  before  I  was  apprized  of  their  vicinity, 
and  I  had  some  inclination  to  halt  and  travel  up 
on  foot,  in  order  to  take  a  view  of  them  ;  but,  as 
I  had  been  told  We  should  find  a  much  greater 
variety  as  we  descended  to  Marietta,  I  did  not 
think  it  prudent  to  lose  any  time.  Our  pilot,  inform- 
ed me  that  he  had  encamped  one  night,  some  years 
ag'  ,  on  h  largest  oi  them,  and  described  it  as 
"  being  about  sixty  or  seventy  feet  in  height,  with 


159 


"  the  top  cut  ofF,  and  overgrown  with  trees  of  the 
"  largest  size."  Seacoal  appears  to  be  very 
abundant  throughout  this  country,  and  in  many 
places  lying  so  convenient  to  the  river,  that  you 
may  lay  a  boat  along  side  of  the  bank,  and  shovel 
it  in  with  very  little  trouble. 

After  leaving  Pultney  we  passed  a  considerable 
number  of  settlements  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
but  siiw  no  more  towns  until  we  arrived  at  Mari- 
etta, situated  on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  in  the 
State  of  Ohio,  at  a  distance  below  Pittsburgh  of 
about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 

This  voyage  is  generally  performed  in  five  days, 
and  a  passage  on  board  a  trading  boat  will  cost 
two  dollars,  exclusive  of  provisions.  Freight  to 
this  place  is  one  dollar  a  barrel,  and  merchandise 
at  fifty  cents  a  hundred  pounds  weight ;  but  con- 
siderably lower  when  destined  for  a  distance 
of  eight  or  ten  hundred  miles.  Most  people, 
however,  find  it  cheaper  to  purchase  some  kind 
of  a  boat,  and  freight  their  own  goods;  while 
those  who  travel  for  improvement  or  amusement 
will  always  prefer  having  a  boat  at  their  own  com- 
mand, to  being  confined  in  one  of  the  trading 
boats,  where  you  can  have  no  will  of  your  own. 
To  those  who  wish  to  travel  as  economical  as  pos- 
sible, it  will  be  advisable  to  take  a  passage  on 
board  boats  of  the  latter  description,  where  the 
whole  voyage  to  New- Orleans,  a  distance  of  two 


I 


^i 


I 


140 

thousand  two  hundred  miles,  will  not  cost  more 
than  from  five  to  ten  dollars. 

The  Ohio,  as  yet,  has  not  produced  us  any  fish, 
and,  although  this  may  be  owing  in  some  measure 
to  a  want  of  industry  on  our  part,  yet  I  am  incli- 
ned to  believe  it  is  not  so  well  stocked  with  fish  as 
it  has  been  represented  to  be.     The  river  is  sub- 
ject to  rise  very  suddenly  in  many  places,  when 
the  current  becomes  proportionably  rapid.     Fish 
generally  seek  for  still  water,  and  as  this  is  only 
to  be  found  in  deep  holes,  or  under  projecting 
points  of  land,  we  are  not  to  expect  to  find  many 
in- the  stream.     I  have  seen  several  dry  salted  cat 
fish  which  weighed  twelve  and  fourteen  pounds, 
and,  probably,  when  first  caught,  not  less  than  for- 
ty.    I  have  indeed  been  assured,  by  a  respectable 
gentleman,  that  many  are  frequently  caught  which 
weigh  from  fifty  to  ninety  pounds.    I  have  seen  a 
few  cat  fish,  buffaloe  fish,   sun  fish,  perch,  chub, 
suckers  and  herrings ;  but  no  sturgeon  or  pike. 
The  herring,  which  here  take  the  hook,  are  exact- 
ly the  same  with  our  long  summer  herrings,  with 
this  difference,  that  our's  never  take  the  hook. 

The  river  water  is  generally  used  by  all  the  set- 
tiers  on  its  banks  for  every  culinary  as  well  as  ta- 
ble use.  This  is  a  particular  hardship  to  those  ac- 
customed to  drink  clear  water  only  ;  for,  although 
the  Ohio  is  equally  well  tasted  with  the  best  of 
brook  water,  yet,  at  this  season,  it  is  thick  and 
turbid,  and  the  thousands  of  dead  squirrels  putre- 


m-' 


141 

fying  on  its  surface  and  its  shores,  contribute  very 
httle  to  render  it  more  agreeable. 

The  Ohio  River,  as  far  as  I  have  seen,  is  cer- 
tamly  the  handsomest  stream  in  our  countiy,  and 
contmues,  as  I  am  informed,  to  improve  in  beauty 
and  size  as  you  descend.     The  velocity  of  the 
current  at  present  is  two  miles  an  hour,  and  in 
freshes  may  be  rated  on  an  average  at  no  more 
than  three  and  a  half.     The  stream  is  at  all  times 
smooth  and  gentle,  very  little  obstructed  by  sunk- 
en logs  or  trees,  so  that,  with  keeping  one  hand 
to  look  out,   you  may  glide  along   twenty    and 
twenty.five   miles    of  a    night,    in   the   greatest 
security. 

We  have  already  passed  t^venty.seven  islands, 
some  of  which  contain  upwards  of  one  thousand 
acres  of  land ;  many,  however,  lie  so  low  as  to  be 
entirely  useless,  from  the  frequent  inundations  oc- 
casioned by  the  sudden  rise  of  the  river. 

It  is  astonishing  to  what  a  height  the  freshes 
generally  rise  on  this  river;  and,  to  you,  it  will 
appear   difficult   to  believe  that  they   frequently 
exceed  forty  feet  of  perpendicular  height.     The 
lodges  of  drift  wood  in  the  trees  on  the  bunks 
as  likewise  the  wharf  at  Marietta,  however,  fully 
confirm  the   truth   of   this    assertion,  the    latter 
bemg  forty  feet  in  height,  and  the  river  at  present 
three  feet  below  its  foundation. 


14fi 


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1     f 
'  i 


,   ■ 


In  describing  my  course  down  the  river  to  this 
place,  I  neglected  to  inform  you,  that  five  miles 
above  Marietta,  on  the  right  hand  side,  we  passed 
tlie  Little  Muskingum  River,  a  considerable 
stream,  which  there  falls  into  the  Ohio  ;  and,  two 
miles  lower,  on  the  same  side,  another  considera- 
ble, but  smaller,  stream,  called  Duck  Creek.  Both 
of  these  streams  liave  a  neat  and  handsome  bridge 
across  them,  of  which  we  had  a  full  view  in  de- 
scending the  Ohio. 

The  town  of  Marietta  lies  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Ohio ;  and  is  handsomely  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Muskingum  River.  The  first  im- 
provements, and  consequently  the  most  nume- 
rous, were  made  on  the  upper  side ;  but  the  lower 
being  found  to  be  one  or  two  feet  higher,  consi- 
derable improvements  are  likewise  making  there. 
Marietta  contains  about  one  hundred  and  eighty 
houses,  amongst  which  are  several  that  may  be 
considered  not  only  genteel,  but  even  elegant.  It 
is  a  county  town,  has  a  market,  printing  office, 
several  mercantile  stores,  and  a  great  variety  of 
mechanics.  Ship  building  is  carried  on  with  more 
spirit  than  at  any  other  town  on  the  Ohio ;  and, 
notwithstanding  the  loss  of  two  fine  ships  on  the 
falls  last  year,  there  are  now  on  the  stocks  three 
ships  of  about  three  hundred  tons  burthen  each, 
and  two  large  brigs,  besides  smaller  craft.  The 
former  will  be  ready  to  descend  the  river  with  the 
earliest  spring  freshes,  ^vhen  they  will  be  loaded 


.s 


t^n- 


i'ii 


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4 


143 

with  the  p!  luce  of  the  counti  v,  ai  ady  »o  con- 
vey it  to  the  the  most  distant  ot  the  globe. 
The  price  for  ship  building  he  is  fitty  dollars  i 
ton,  rigged  and  equipped  compi      ly  for  sea. 

These  vessels  arc  built  r  the  Musi  ingum  Ri- 
ver,  which,  although  at  present  .ordable,  is  a  very 
considerable  stream,  being  nearly  two  hi  red 
yards  wide,  and  naviga!)le  for  keel  boi  s  oni  mn- 
dred  and  forty  miles.  One  of  its  branches  is  said 
to  communicate,  by  a  portage  of  seven  miles,  with 
the  Cayahaga,  which  empties  into  Lake  Erie,  and, 
when  the  waters  are  high,  may  be  navigated  to 
within  one  mile  of  each  other.  Fort  Harmar,  a 
post  of  some  consequence  in  our  late  Indian  wars, 
was  buih  on  the  lower  side  of  the  Muskingum  ,' 
it  is  now  gone  to  ruin,  as  the  increased  population 
of  the  country  has,  in  a  manner,  rendered  it  en- 
tirely  unnecessary. 

Marietta  may  be  considered  as  New- England  in 
miniature  ;  her  inhabitants  are  sober,  honest,  reli- 
gious  and  industrious,  while  dissipation  and  irra- 
tional amusements  are  not  kno\vn  in  her  friendly 
circles.  I  think  I  may  venture  to  say,  in  propor- 
tion to  her  population,  there  is  no  town  on  this 
side  of  the  mountains,  not  even  excepting  Pitts- 
burgh itself,  can  rival  Marietta  in  the  number  of 
her  enterprising  and  well  informed  citizens. 

This  town  lies  in  latitude  39.  25.  N.  and  81.  19. 
W.  the  climate  is  said  to  be  I'ar  more  temperate 
and  settled  than  in  the  same  latitude  on  the  coast. 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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The  produce  of  the  country  is  the  same  as  with 
vou,  excepting  that  they  raise  some  small  crops  of 
coarse  cotton,  calculated  only  for  tlie  manufacture 
of  homespun.  The  only  fruits  I  have  met  with, 
Tvith  which  you  are  unacquainted,  are  the  man- 
drake and  papaw.  The  former  grows  in  the  crotch 
ot  a  small  shrub,  in  the  open  places  of  woods ; 
in  shape,  size  and  colour  it  very  much  resembles 
a  lime,  excepting  the  colour  being  of  much 
lighter  yellov/ ;  in  taste  it  approaches  nearest  to 
the  pineapple.  The  papaw  is  about  the  size  of  a 
cucumber,  and  something  of  that  shape,  but 
is  perfectly  smooth ;  they  grow  in  clusters  of 
three,  four  and  five  together,  on  trees  about  twen- 
ty or  thirty  ^eet  high.  The  fruit  at  this  time  is 
quite  green,  therefore  I  am  unable  to  speak  from 
experience,  and  say  they  are  "  truly  delicious." 
This  tree,  however,  has  one  very  peculiar  quality, 
which  seems  to  indicate  the  richness  of  its  fruit, 
namely,  that  it  is  never  found  except  upon  the 
richest  bottoms. 

I  propose  spending  to-morrow  in  taking  a  more 
particular  view  of  the  ancient  works  and  fortifica- 
tions in  the  neighbourhood  of  this  town,  of  which 
I  know  you  will  expect  me  to  say  something-.  I 
have  already  taken  a  cursory  view  of  them  ;  but, 
as  I  shall  have  an  opportunity  of  resting  here  for  a 
day  or  two  longer,  my  next  shall  be  devoted  to 
this  subject. 


side. 


1 


The  feny  al  this  place,  across  the  Muskingunj 
River,  is  established  upon  a  curious  and  yet  very 
simple  plan.     They  prepare  a  flat  boat,  with  a  sin- 
gle  lee-board  fixed  to  the  middle  of  the  upper 
side     which   is  then  secured    by    a    painter    at 
each  end  to  a  strong  hawser,  stretched  across  the 
river   from  bank  to  bank  ;  to  the  end  of  each 
pamter  is    affixed    a  kind    of   travelling  block, 
which  runs  along  the  hawser ;  and  whenever  the 
boat  IS  to  move,  the  stem  rope  is  slacked  up  two 
or  three  feet,  the  lee-board   let  down,  and.  she 
passes  over  to  the  other  shore  without  any  other 
assistance  than  the  pressure  of  the  current  upon 
the  lee-board.     When  they  wish  to  return  they  re- 
verse  the  management,  by  taking  in  the  slack  of* 
what  was  the  stem  rope,  which  converts  the  former 
stem  to  her  present  stem,  when  she  proceeds  as 
before  to  the  opposite  shore. 


U 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


VOL.  I. 


:} 


k*"!] 


5SWV 


■«.•••■ 


14,6 


LETTER  Xin. 


Ohh,  Marietta,  September  21,  1807  > 


Dear  Friend* 


■;<  'v 


,*  -• 


?  '<.»  * 


BEING  just  returned  irom  my  excursion  to 

examine  what  is  called  Ae  Indian  antiquities  of 

this  country,  I  now  devote  the  evening  to  your 

^amusenientj    My  notes  and  observations,  such  as 

they  are,  must  furnish  the  subject- 

If  the  small  and  imperfect  samples  of  ancient 
fortifications  found  in  our  own  State  have  excited 
so  much  wonder  as  to  their  founders,  how  much 
more  cause  have  we  for  astonishment  when  view- 
ing works  of  such  surprising  extent  and  grandeur 
as  those  bf  the  ancients  in  this  part  of  our  coun- 
try? 

That  a  country,  which  has  generally  been  reputed 
as  buried  in  the  most  abject  ignorance  and  barbarism, 
or  but  lately  peopled  by  some  accidental  emigra- 
tion from  that  part  of  Asia  which  approaches  very 
near  to  our  continent,  should  produce  such  monu- 
m'^'.nts  of  its  antiquity,  population,  industry ,  and  a 
competent  knowledge  of  the  arts  and  sciences  to 


i%. 


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21,  1807> 


:ursion  to 
quities  of 
g  to  your 
i,  such  as 


f  ancient 
e  excited 
ow  much 
»en  view- 
grandeur 
ur  coun- 

n  reputed 
irbarism, 
I  emigra- 
•hes  very 
h  monu- 
rj ,  and  a 
ences  to 


M: 


-/.  jRcunjmrts 

2.  Sertijcircular  Ti'hlfs 

3.  OvalMoHftds 

4.  Oval  aiid  Circular  raised 3£(yiaitls 
6.    Burial  Ground 

6.  Srnallext  elevatfd  St/uare 

7.  -Larffest  elevated  S^ttare 

8.  Jilevatpd  Square 

■f>    Parajfett  and uMinJid 


/'J/ovi-mA-  .uiilfi.  A;-u;ii/i , 


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,:iisi.4-j,t,-,.  . 


147 

plan  and  execute  such  mighty  works  as  these, 
concerning  which  the  traditions  of  the  aborigines 
of  this  country  does  not  retain  even  the  smallest 
remembrance  of  the  founders,  is,  if  possible,  mort 
astonishing  still,  and  seems  to  argue  a  degree  of 
antiquity  which  few  are  willing  to  allow. 

These  works  or  fortifications,  which  enclose  an 
area  of  about  seventy  acres,  are  within  the  town  plot 
of  Marietta,  and  are  situated  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  Muskingum,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
River  Ohio,  upon  a  second  elevated  plain,  entirely 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  annual  floods,  which  some- 
times inundate  a  great  part  of  the  adjacent  coun- 
try. They  consist  of  walls,  ramparts  and  mounds 
of  earth  of  astonishing  magnitude  and  extent ; 
some  of  a  circular  and  semicircular  form,  and 
others  in  squares  and  straight  lines.  But,  to  be 
more  particular,  take  my  notes  as  they  occurred. 

After  ascending  the  second  elevated  bank,  and 
advancing  about  seventy  or  eighty  paces,*  I 
entered  at  the  south  end  through  a  large  opening  at 
the  angle  of  two  walls  or  ramparts  about  five  feet 
in  height ;  the  one  on  the  right  hand  extending 
to  the  north-east  about  one  hundred  and  sixty-two 
paces;  and  the  other,  on  the  left,  extending  to 
the  north-west  about  five  hundred  and  sixty  paces 
in  length.     These  walls  appear  to  be  in  a  more 


' 


*  Not  geometrical  paces. 


148 

ruinous   state  than  the  others;    but   from   M'hat 
cause  I  am  unable  to  say. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  paces  north  of  the  en- 
trance  before  mentioned,  are  two  ruinous  walls, 
portions  of  concentric  circles,  having  their  convexi- 
ties  towards  the  south-east,  each  beii.g  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty -two  paces  in  length. 

About  twenty.five  paces  farther  to  the  north, 
west,  commences  the  bank  or  wall   which  sur- 
rounds  the  great  mound,  being  about  breast  high, 
in  the  inside  of  which  is  a  trench  or  ditch  from' 
three  to  five  feet  deep,  and  about  five  or  six  paces 
wide.     The  great  mound,  which  is  in  the  centre, 
is  of  a  pyramidical  form,  about   thirty    feet    in 
height,  one  hundred  and  forty-two  paces  in  cir- 
cumference,  and,  at  the  north-west  end,  has  a 
passage  or  entrance-way  of  eight  paces  wide.  One 
hundred  paces  to  the  north-west  of  the  gateway  of 
the  great  mound  there  is  a  smaller  mound  of  an  oval 
form.  After  leaving  this  little  mound  about  the  same 
distance,  and  still  in  the  san\e  direction,  I  entered 
the  southern  extremity  of  what  is  called  the  Little 
Fort,  being  a  parallelogram  of  five  hundred  and 
thirty   paces  in  length,  and   three  hundred  and 
seventy  in  breadth,  its  longest  sides  extending  to 
the  north-west,  and  lying  parallel  to  the    river. 
This  fort  has  three  entrances  or  gateways  on  each 
side  ;  one  in  the  middle,  and  one  at  each  corner  ; 
each  of  the  corner  passages  is  covered  or  delend- 


:^%" 


149 

ed  by  a  small  elevated  mound,  and  the  ml,I,ll. 

gates  by  two.  The  vralls  or ram^rts  are'  "^ 
mm  five  to  eight  feet  in  heigh.fand  ap^Tbe 
n  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation.     A  small  dis 

tanee  to  tl,e  west  end,  and  on  the  outside  of  th  " 

on,  towards  , he  margin  of  what  .:::^VrLet 
he  nver  ,s  the  spot  which  has  been  designatrdl 
the  bunal  grcmd  of  the  ancients. 

-h-weit.  rtam  r^:;  r?-  *' 

area  and   fifty  paces  in  length    anH   fi„      u 
d-d  and  ten  in  b,.adth.  havi^'thl  p    ^   '"o" 
gateways  on  each  side ;  but  that  on  the  ^T    ! 
or  river  side,  is  somewhat  thelarl,      The    "n ' 

are  genen.l,y  from  five  to  nine  fe«„hSt"»d 
fourteen  paces  in  thickness  at  the  bottom^  Cm 
'he  large  gateway,  and  at  another  on  the  r  ver   id" 
of  the  wall,  are  two  covert  wavs  l^»H- 
;he  river,  about  one  hundred  arforynleT* 
■n  length.     I„  ,he  inside  of  the  n.idl     ,     ^  '" 
the   south-west  wall   or  ..mp  ,^    .f  ™^^  °'' 
and  elevated  squa<^  mound  ex  1      '"'    "T'"' 
the  sides  of  the  fort   sZl '  "'^"<^"S  P»allel  to 

-h.vest,  fortySrStlS^^ 
and  about  eight  and  a  half  feet  i„  hdgh      'h,  ' 
hkewtse  abutments  at  the  centre  of  each  s  de  I 
-ng  gentle  ascents  to  the  top,  excep^nSel: 


M 


,  «i^)tev 


f 


r 


i!t! 


OT 


I 


I 


150 

nearest  to  the  wall,  which  has  a  covered  way  four 
paces  wide,  extending  inward  a  few  paces,  when  it 
likewise  affords  anodier  passage  to  the  summit.  At 
the  easternmost  comer,  on  the  right,  there  is 
another  mound  of  the  same  figure  and  form  as  tlie 
last,  although  not  so  large,  being  no  more  than 
forty.four  paces  in  length,  twenty-twc  in  breadth, 
and  about  five  feet  in  height.  This  mound,  from 
some  unknown  cause  or  other,  appears  in  a  far  less 
perfect  state  than  the  former.  At  the  southern- 
most  corner,  on  the  left,  is  a  narrow,  and  some- 
thing  of  a  half-moon  formed  parapet,  ab(jut  the 
same  height,  and  eighty  paces  in  extent,  with  a 
mound  at  the  centre,  which  evidently  appears  to 
have  been  intended  to  defend  the  gate  at  that  cor- 
ner. At  the  westernmost  comer  there  is  another 
of  the  aforementioned  mounds,  with  abutments  at 
each  side,  affording  an  easy  passage  to  the  summit ; 
this  one  is  about  nine  feet  in  height,  seventy-six 
paces  in  length,  and  fifty-four  in  breadth.  Exclu- 
sive of  the  works  just  mentioned,  there  are 
many  smaller  mounds  and  excavations,  without 
the  limits  of  the  walls  or  ramparts  ;  but  in  general 
so  trifling  and  imperfect,  when  compared  with 
what  I  have  already  described,  as  not  to  be  deser- 
ving of  notice. 

There  seems  to  be  a  considerable  diversity  of 
opinion  among  those  who  have  examined  these 
works,  respecting  the  original  intention  or  design 
for  which  they  were  erected  by  ihe  founders ;  for 


•■:  f 


151 


while  some,  and  among  those  several  military  cha- 
racters,  who  ought  to  be  able  to  form  a  competent 
judgment,  have  pronounced  them  places  of  warlike 
defence ;  others  have  insisted  that  they  were  the 
mere  towns  of  some  peaceable  people,  and  that  the 
elevations  which  have  been  mistaken  for  forts  and 
ramparts,  were  nothing  more  than  the  site  of  their 
temples,  and  the  walls  of  their  gardens  ;  and  the 
elevated  mounds,  the  sepulchres  of  their  dead,  or 
high  places  of  sacrifice  ! 

I  have  already  had  occasion  to  acknowledge  my 
ignorance  of  the  art  of  fortification  ;   I  shall  not, 
therefore,  speak  decidedly  on  this  question,  yet  free- 
ly confess  that  I  lean  to  the  former  opinion.     The 
principal  reason  which  has  inclined  me  to  this,  is 
that  of  the  two  passages  or  covert  ways  already 
mentioned,  which,  by  a  gradual  descent,  lead  from 
the  principal  fort  to  the  lower  grounds  towards 
the  Muskingum  River.     These,  at  this  time,  in 
consequence  of  the  accumulation  of  soil  and  retro- 
cession of  the  water,  are  now  three  hundred  paces 
distant ;  but,  in  all  probability,  the  river  flowed  at 
the  foot  of  these  passages  at  the  time  of  erecting 
the  fortifications. 

The  angles  of  all  the  figures  I  found  corres- 
ponded nearly  with  the  four  cardinal  points  of  the 
compass,  particularly  those  on  the  north  and  south ; 
those  to  the  east  and  west  had  considerably  more 
variation.     The  works,  when  viewed  collectively 


.  t^>-'  '   -   '  '  It 


f 


i.-yfc. .  ..^j^wy*— *  -*■». — ^  -^^ 


152 

from  the  southern  extremity,  have  the  appearance 
of  a  triangle,  whose  two  sides,  extending  from  the 
eye,  ai'e  equal,  and  of  very  considerable  length. 
From  a  particular  examination  of  the  ground,  I  am 
clearly  of  opinion,  that  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  elevated  bank,  on  which  they  are  situated,  was 
formerly  the  point  of  land  which  divided  the  Ohio 
and  Muskingum  Rivers ;  and  that  the  formation 
and  structure  of  the  works  were  laid  out  with  a 
particular  reference  to  the  ancient  point  and  June- 
tion  of  '.he  two  rivers ;  and,  in  all  probability,  were 
calculated  to  prevent  any  surprise  from  that 
quarter. 

Although,  a't  present,  these  works  do  not  seem 
calculated  to  aford  that  protection  from  an  attack 
with  artillery  and  musketry,  which  we  might  ex- 
pect from  the  improved  state  of  the  military  science 
of  our  time;  yet,  when  we  consider  the  different 
arms  made  use  of  in  those  days,  such  as  bows  and 
arrows  for  long  shot,  and  stones,  javelins,  &c.  for 
close  quarters,  and  that  the  walls  and  ramparts  have, 
in  all  probability,  lost  at  least  one  half  of  their  ori- 
ginal  heig:ht,  we  shall  be  of  opinion  tliat  the  works 
were  sufficient  for  all  the  purposes  intended.  In- 
deed, I  have  not  the  smallest  doubt,  were  the 
whole  lower  plain  examined  by  digging,  it  would 
be  found  to  contain  great  quantities  of  drift-wood 
buried  by  the  repeated  inundations  of  former  ages ; 
and  thus  prove,  beyond  all  doubt,  tliat  the  antiquity 


153 


ftf  these  venerable  works  is  even  greater  than  the 
warmest  advocates  for  this  opinion  have  been 
wilhng  to  allow. 

The  passages  or  spaces  in  the  sides  or  walls  of 
the  ramparts,  were  probably  used  as  gateways,  and 
guarded  accordingly.  The  mean  distance  between 
these    gateways   is   one   hundred   and   sixty-five 
paces ;   consequently  the  guard  stationed  at  one 
gate  was  within  hail  of  him  who  kept  watch  at 
the  next.     For  what  particular  purpose  the  eleva- 
ted mounds  or  platforms  in  the  Great  Fort  were 
intended  I  am  unable  to  determine,  yet  think  it 
not  unreasonable  to  suppose,  that  they  may  have 
been  raised  for  the  site  of  some  warlike  engines, 
to  discharge  stones  or  other  missile  weapons  upon 
a  besieging  enemy.     What  strengthens  this  opi- 
nion  IS,  that  each  of  these  mounds  commands  ^ 
principal  passage  to  the  fort,  and  the  largest  one 
overlooks  that  which  opens  to  the  Muskingum, 
from  which'  the  covert  ways  extend  to  the'low 
grounds,  where,  as  I  have  before  observed,  the 
river  formerly  flowed.     If,  therefore,  these  works, 
after  a  lapse  of  so  many  ages,  still  evince  such  evi- 
dent sigis  of  skill  and  design  in  their  founders,  it 
is  but  reasonable  to  suj^pose,  that  when  they  were 
first  erected,  they  were  even  more  perfect,  and  that 
they  may  have  been  surrounded  with  pickets,  pali- 
sades,  and  other  temporary  works,  which,  being 


VOL.   I. 


U 


-    ! 


~-  t 


N 


i 


m 


154 

of  a  more  perishable  nature,  have  entirely  disap- 
peared. 

Works  of  a  similar  kind,  although  less  com- 
plete and  extensive,  have  been  discovered  in  va- 
rious parts  of  our  country,  from  the  banks  of  Lake 
Ontario,  and  the  waters  of  the  Unadilla,  in  the 
State  of  New- York,  to  those  of  the  Mississippi,  in 
the  Territory  of  Louisiana.  The  State  of  Ohio, 
particularly,  abounds  with  them.  The  works  of 
Marietta,  although  astonishingly  large,  are  said 
to  be  much  less  than  those  which  have  been 
found  in  the  interior,  some  of  which  enclose 
an  area  of  six  hundred  acres,  with  the  walls  and 
ramparts  proportionably  large.  Smaller  specimens 
of  these  wonks  are  found  at  Grave  Creek,  above 
Marietta,  and  at  Galliopolis,  below;  while  those  of 
larger  dimensions  are  on  the  waters  of  the  Sciota 
and  Miami  Rivers. 

There  is  one  thing  worth;-  of  remark  with  re- 
spect to  che  structure  of  these  works,  which  is, 
that  excepting  the  small  ditch,  already  mentioned 
to  surround  the  great  mound,  no  other  ditch  or 
ravin  is  to  be  found  throughout  the  whole  extent 
of  these  immense  works ;  and,  as  ihey  are  situated 
upon  a  natural  plain,  it  is  evident  that  the  whole 
of  the  ground  necessary  for  the  elevation  of  the 
walls,  mounds  and  ramparts  must  have  either 
been  brought  from  a  distance,  or  taken  up  regu- 
larly from  the  whole  surface  of  the  plain.  The 
few  excavations  which  arc  found  would  have  af- 


■?-'•» 


m 

forded  too  trifling  a  quantity  of  earth  to  be  taken 
into  consideration;  and  these,  no  doubt,  were 
made  ibr  the  purpose  of  procuring  water,  but  have 
since  been  washed  full  of  earth  by  the  rains. 

I  have  been  informed,  that  in  digging  in  some 
parts  of  the  fort  to  a  depth  of  live  feet,  large  bo- 
dies  of  trees,  with  fragments  of  earthen  ware, 
pieces  of  copper  of  a  semicircular  form,  and  some 
small  beads,  and  ornaments  of  the  same  metal, 
have  been  found.  This  proves  that  the  ancient 
floor  of  the  fort  was  considerably  lower  thai>  it  is 
at  present ;  and  that  an  accretion  of  soil,  from  the 
decomposition  of  trees,  and  other  vegetable  mat. 
ter,  has  added  a  layer  of  several  feet  in  thickness 
over  the  floor  or  bottom  of  the  fort. 

On  another  occasion  I  learnt,  that  in  digging 
wells  on  the  lower  plain,  frequent  and  indubi- 
table proofs  of  former  habitation^  are  found,  and 
particularly  on  one  occasion,  about  five  or  six  feet 
below  the  surface,  a  hearth  of  stone,  with  frag- 
ments of  seacoal,  was  discovered.  Seacoal  is  foujid 
in  abundance  up  the  Muskingum  River,  and  a 
fragment,  therefore,  might  easily  have  been  brought 
here  by  the  natives  of  that  day.  But  still  I  am  of 
opinion,  that  if  such  a  hearth,  in  such  a  situation, 
has  really  been  found,  it  cannot  be  the  doings 
of  those  who  erected  the  works  on  the  upper  plain ; 
but  of  one  of  some  nation  who  succeeded  them, 
after  a  lapse  of  many  Intervening  ages,  as  the 
whole  lower  plain  must  have  been  formed  since 


■( 


II. 


!^5 


156 

tliat  period.     Another  difficulty  likewise  strikes 
me  as  Ibrming  an  insurmountiible  objection  to  the 
idea  that  this  lower  plain  has  ever  been  a  perma- 
nent settlement.     It  is  now  well  known  that  the 
beds  of  the   Ohio  and  Mississippi,  like  all  other 
large  rivers,  are  continually  wearing  away  by  the 
violence  of  the  freshes,  to  which  they  are  so  often 
subject.      From  this  fact  a  natural  inference  is,  that 
at  some  remote  period,   the  bed  of  the  river  may 
have  been  live  feet  higher  than  it  is  at  present,  and 
consequently  the  general  level  of  the  river  elevated 
in  the  same  degree.     Thtrelbre,  as  the  /leart/iwas 
discovered  five  feet  below  the  present  surface  of 
the  plain,  the  situation  must  have  been  in  all  re- 
spects  similar  to  one  ten  feet  lower  than  the  pre- 
sent  banks  of  the  river,  consequently  unfit  for  any 
thing  more  than  a  temporary  iiabitation  during  the 
lowest  stages  of  the  water.     Indeed  it  is  not  un- 
common  for  a  fresh  to  swell  the  river,  even  at  this 
day,  to  such  a  degree  as  to  inundate  the  town  of 
Marietta  with  two  feet  of  uater ;  and,  were  the 
banks  five  feet  lower,  (the  dejjth  the  /learth  is  said 
to  ha^  e  been  found,)  the  town  would  be  uninha- 
bitable  the  greatest  ^^art  of  the  year. 

Some  years  ago  a  number  of  gentlemen  deter- 
mined  to  open  the  great  mound,  in  order  to  ascer- 
tain,  by  an  examination  of  its  contents,  the  use  for 
which  it  was  erected.  After  much  labour,  tiiey 
at  length  discovered  the  bones  of  a  person  neatly 
covered  over  with  flat  stones,  of  the  same  kind  as 


:■*.  * 


157 

those  now  found  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  from 
which,  in  all  probability,  they  were  taken.     No- 
thing  further  was  discovered ;  but,  in  order  to 
preserve  the  work  for  a  more  succvmiul  attempt 
the  mound  was  closed  up  as  before ;  since  which 
It  has  remained  untouched. 
^  Some  of  the  smaller  mounds  in  the  interior 
have  been  opened  and  examined,  and,  from  the 
circumstance  of  human  bones  bein^c  lound,  have 
been  considered  as  the  sepulchres  of  the  ancient 
inhabitants.      In   most  of  these    the   bones   ap- 
peared  to  have  been  laid  together  promiscuously; 
yet  in  some  few,  towards  the  summit,  a  numk 
skeleton  has  been  found,  generally  accompanied 
with  some  warlike  weapon,  such  as  stone  arrow, 
heads,  and  a  kind  of  battle  axe  of  the  same  mate- 
rial,  together  with  pieces  of  earthen  ware,  intended 
no  doubt  as  the  monuments  of  some  favourite 
chiefs. 

It  does  not  appear  that  any  thing  but  ornaments, 
arms,  and  fragments  of  earthen  urns,  have  as 
yet  been  found  in  any  of  the  examinations  which 
have  taken  place,  which  is  somewhat  surjjrising 
as  we  cannot  have  a  doubt  but  tools  of  some  kind 
were  necessary  in  the  construction  of  such  works' 
and  that  the  fragments  of  some,  at  least,  have  been' 
buried.  Can  this  be  for  the  want  of  j,roper  search, 
or  is  it  owing  to  the  perishable  nature  of  the  ma' 
tenals  ?  I  feel  inclined  to  adopt  the  latter  con. 
elusion,  upon  the  supposition  that  they  used  no- 


r 


'1 


y' 


158 

thing  but  sacks  made  of  skins,  and  a  kind  of 
earthen  scoop  or  plate,  the  fragments  of  which 
arc  still  found,  but  are  now  known  under  the  im- 
posing title  of  urns.     Although  you  may  suppose 
this  hypothesis  to  accord  but  HI  with  the  genius  of 
a  people  capable  of  rearing  works  which  not  only 
display  a  degree  of  mathematical  precision,  but, 
likewise  a  competent  knowledge  of  the  art  of  pot- 
tery ;  yet,  upon  reflection,  I  feel  almost  confirmed 
in  the  opinion.     In  those  early  ages,  when  the  arts 
were  less  known,  and  these  nations  not  stationary, 
it  was  much  easier  to  procure  sacks,  which  might 
be   used  for  many  other  purposes  than  to  build 
intrenchments ;  and  they  were  likewise  more  con- 
venient  to  bci  transported,  either  by  land  or  water, 
than  as  many  wheel  or  hand-barrows,  or  sui;h  like 
modern  instruments.     The  soil,  in  general,  is  of  a 
very  loose  texture,  and,  therefore,  does  not  requite 
sharp  instruments  to  remove  it :  allowing,  there, 
fore,  that  sacks,  of  convenient  sizes  for  one  or  two 
men  to  carry,  were  used  instead  of  our  modern 
barrows,  we  shall  no  longer  be  surprised  that  "  no 
"  tools"  of  this  kind  have  been  discovered. 

I  am  likewise  informed,  that  the  few  ornaments 
which  have  been  found  in  these  works  differ  not 
only  in  form  and  figure,  but  are  likewise  of  supe- 
rior workmanship  to  those  generally  found  through- 
out  the  country.  If  this  be  true,  I  think  it  argues 
strongly  that  two  or  more  separate  and  distinct  na- 
tions have,  at  different  periods,  inhabited  this  coun- 


159 

try  ;  but  that  the  ancient  aborigines,  like  those  of 
Asia,  were  more  enlightened  than  their  successors 
of  a  later  period. 

As  to  the  antiquity  of  these  surprising  works,  I 
know  of  no  daUi  which  may  guide  us  with  any  de- 
gree of  certjiinty  to  a  conclusion.     The  only  cir- 
cumstance  which  has  come  to  my  knowledge,  and 
can  give  room  for  conjecture,  is,  that  some  gentle- 
men, at  the  early  settlement  of  this  place,  had  seve- 
ral  of  the  largest  trees  cut  down  in  order  to  ascer- 
tani  their  growth,  which  is  readily  done  by  enu- 
merating  the  concentric  circles  found  on  each.  On 
the  largest  they  counted  four  hundred  and  seventy 
which  denoted  an  equal  number  of  years ;  and' 
from  other  good  evidence,  they  discovered  sigiis 
of  a  previous  growth,  probably  of  the  same  extent, 
which  gives  a  period  of  nine  hundred  years.     This 
evidence,  however,  only  goes  to  show  they  cannot 
be  less  than  nine  hundred  years  old  ;  but  how 
many  previous  growths  of  four  hundred  and  se. 
venty  years  each  may  have  vegetated  aud  mould- 
ered  away,  remains  for  each  one  to  determine  as 
his  reason,  prejudice,  or  superstition  may  permit. 


Yours, 


C.  S. 


f-  )■ 


h 


i     pi 


( 

'1 1  ^n^^l 

/ 

'  M^y^^l 

160 


'\ 


LETTER  XIV. 

Cincinnati,  {Fort  JVashington,)  October  4,  1 807. 
Dear  Friend, 

BEFORE  I  left  Marietta  I  made  an  excursion 
in  company  with  L.  on  the  opposite  shore,  for 
the  purpose  of  looking  after  some  lands.     This 
excursion  was  chequered  with  such  a  variety  of 
adventure,  that  I  cannnot  withhold  from  you  the 
particulars.     It  having  rained  hard  during  the  fore 
part  of  the  day  on  which  we  intended  to  set  out,  it 
.  was  late  in  tlu  afternoon  before  we  departed  from 
Marietta ;  but,  being  informed  that  the  road  was 
plain,  and  our  object  only  twelve  t  liles  distant,  we 
set  off  about  five  o'clock,  expecting  to  reach  our 
destination  before  dark..    When  we  arrived  at  the 
ferry  we  lost  near  an  hour  before  we  could  obtain 
an  answer  from  the  opposite  shore,  \vhen,  at  last, 
we  were  informed  that  the  ferryman  had  gone  a 
hunting,  and  they  had  no  one  to  bring  the  boat 
over.  We  were  now  under  tlie  necessity  of  riding 

1 


three 
theg 
was  r 

the  ft 

being 

great 

procee 

were  < 

were  i 

shortei 

again. 

being 

nogre£ 

formed 

discoV( 

lowing 

came  sc 

had  foil 

we  coul 

the  stui 

woody  1 

examine 

municat 

no  trace 

some  di 

(by  the  i 

water)  tl 

ado,  I  til 

an  instan 

VOL.  I. 


Ttnt^ 


161 

three  miles  farther  to  another  ferry,  whe,^  we  had 
the  good  luck  to  get  landed  on  the  other  shore    It 
was  now  sunset ;  I  therefore  felt  inclined  to  stav  at 
the  ferry  for  the  night;  but  my  companion, 'not 
bemg  much  pleased  with  the  expedition,  and  in 
great  W  to  have  it  ended,  prevailed  upon  me  to 
proceed.     We  were  informed  that  the  inhabitant, 
were  opening  and  straightening  the  old  road,  and  - 
were  mstructed  to  take  the  new  cuts,  as  being  the 
shortest,   and  always   leading  into  the  old  road 
agam.     We  accordingly  pushed  on  hard,  and  it 
bemg  now  almost  dark,  I  thought  we  could  be  at 
no  great  distance  from  Sharp's  inn,  who,  I  was  in- 
formed,  lived  on  this  land ;    but  could   neither 
discover  signs  of  a  clearing,  nor  hear  the  noise  or 
lowmg  of  catde.  We  still  rode  forward,*  until  it  be 
came  so  dark  that  we  could  not  go  off  a  walk.  We 
had  followed  the  last  new  cut  of  the  road  (which 
we  could  yet  distinguish  from  the  whiteness  of 
the  stumps)  until  it  ended  abruptly  in  a  thick 
woody  bottom.     Alighting  from  our  horses  we 
cxamnied  the  wood  all  around  us  for  the  com 
munication  with  the  old  road,  but  could  discover 
no  trace  of  it ;  we  then  returned  on  our  steps  for 
«ome  distance,  when  I  thought  I  could  perceive 
(by  the  reflection  of  the  light  of  a  star  on  some 
^V|Uer)  the  ruts  of  the  old  road,  so,  vvithout  more 
ado,  I  turned  my  horse's  head  that  way,  when   in 
an  instant,  I  found  myself  and  horse,  with  mv  com- 

VOL.  I.  V 


/•■ 


%.! 


162 


I  fff 


panion  and  his,  who  was  close  at  my  heels,  at  the 
bottom  of  a  creek  or  rivulet,  having  slid  down  the 
steep  side  of  a  bank,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  height, 
without  having  received  any  injury  whatever. 
After  recovering  from  our  fright,  we  endeavoured 
in  vain  to  regain  our  lost  situation,  as  the  steep, 
ness  of  the  bank  rekidered  it  altogether  inipracti- 
cable.  What  to  do  we  knew  not — to  retreat,  we 
could  not  recover  the  road — to  advance,  we  knew 
not  where  to  go — therefoie  to  stay  where  we  were, 
up  to  our  horses'  knees  in  water,  was  our  only  al- 
ternative.  We  continued  in  this  situation,  on  our 
horses,  an  hour  at  least ;  for  as  we  could  not 
get  out  of  the  creek,  it  was  to  no  purpose  to  dis- 
mount and  s^and  in  the  water,  the  night  being  of 
itself  sufficiently  cool.  The  distant  how  lings  of  the 
wolves,  in  the  early  part  of  the  evening,  did  not  in 
the  least  intimidate  us ;  but,  after  an  hour  or  so,  we 
found  them  becoming  such  near  neighbours,  that 
we  began  to  recollect  all  the  dreadful  tales  and  dis- 
asters which  we  had  heard  upon  our  travels.  Be- 
ing totally  unarmed,  L.  made  out  to  cut  off  a  good 
cudgel  from  the  root  of  a  tree  projecting  from  the 
bank,  with  which  lie  occasionally  would  strike  on 
the  bank,  or  against  some  fallen  tree  ;  for  as  we 
concluded  that  silence  was  a  mark  of  cowardice,  we 
took  care  to  make  as  much  noise  as  we_  could,  in 
order  to  let  the  wolves  know  we  were  not  afraid 
of  them.  All  this,  however,  did  not  prevent  some 
of  them  from  approaching  to  witliin  two  or  three 


ever. 


163 

hundred  yards  of  us,  as  n€ar  as  we  could  judge 
from  the  clearness  of  their  horrible  yells ;  so  that 
I  really  began  to  doubt  the  efficacy  of  our  noise, 
making,  and  concluded  that  some  motion  of  our 
horses  would  answer  a  better  purpose  ;  or  that  we 
might  as  well  be  drowned  as  devoured,  or  even 
frightened  lo  death.     I  had  no  sooner  made  this 
detenr* '.nation  than  I  turned  my  horse's  head  up  the 
creek,  resolved  to  follow  it  as  far  as  was  practica- 
ble.     I  had  proceeded  about  one  hundred  yards, 
and  began  to  flatter  myself  with  a  prospect  of  suc- 
ceeding, when,  in  an  instant,  my  horse  plunged 
over  head  and  ears  into  a  deep  hole,  and  before  I 
could  well  ascertain  whether  1  was  riding  or  swim- 
ming,  he  had  clambered  up  a  gentle  ascent,  and 
stopped  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  creek. 

Although  my  situation  was  far  from  pleasant, 
being  now  wet  as  well   as  cold,  with   a   pros- 
pect  of  spendmg  the  night  in  the  woods,  without 
even  a  steel  or  flint  to  strike  a  fue ;  yet  I  ne- 
ver  laughed  more  heartily  than  at  the  scene  which 
ensued.     Poor  L.  who  was  close  behind  me,  re- 
collecting  that  for  want  of  a  tight  rein  he  had  just 
before  made  a  perpendicular  descent  of   fifteen 
feet,    was    determined  to    be    very  cautious   in 
future ;    as  soon,  therefore,  as  he  perceived  my 
horse  disappear,  he  pradently  drew  back.     How- 
ever,  upon  hearing  that  I  was  safe  on  the  bank, 
he  liad  no  great  inclination  to  continue  in  the 


■ul 


"♦* 


164 


Ih 


IK: 


■5 


tfJtek  ;  yet  thffe  was  no  other  way  of  getting 
out  but  through  the  same  pool.  I  must  cut  him  a 
Jong  sticic,  with  which  he  xvould  sound  the  hole.  He 
swore  there  was  no  bottom.  Perhaps  it  was  mud- 
dy, and  his  horse  might  stick  fast.  Was  there  no 
roots  or  brush  M-hich  might  entangle  his  horEc's 
feet  ?  Could  his  horse  climb  the  bank  ?  and  a 
dozen  other  previous  particulars.  I  finally  told 
hin»  I  had  discovered  the  road,  which  soon  deter- 
mined  him,  and  in  he  plunged. 

After  recovering  the  bank,  we  perceived  that  the 
wolves  had  taken  a  more  respectful  distance,  most 
probably  frightened  by  the  plunging  of  our  horses ; 
we  dismounted  and  tied  them  to  a  tree,  and  Imving 
traced   a   small  circuit  around  them,  continued 
walking  until  one  o'clock^   in  order  to  keep  our- 
selves  warm.     About  this  time  the  moon  arose, 
and  gave  so  much  light  as  to  induce  us  to  try  to 
recover  the  road  ;  but,  after  an  inefFectaal  searc^i 
all  around  us,  I  concluded,  that  f .  we  were  as  wet 
as  ^^c  could  be,  (and  I  recollected  we  were  in- 
formed  that  Sharp  lived  upon  this  creek,)  the  best 
thing  we  could  do  was  to  descend  into  the  creek 
once  more,  and  pursue  its  course  imtil  we  reached 
his  house.     We  accordingly  attempted  it,  and, 
after  creeping  under  trees,  leaping  over  logs,  and 
gettmg  half  a  dozen  more  duckings,  discovered  a 
clearing,  which  soon  led  to  the  house,  where  we 
arrived  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning. 


166 

The  chiff  topic  of  conversation  at  present  along 
the  Ohio  is  Burr's  late  expedition,  and  his  pend. 
ing  trial.     Marietta  -.vns  what  may  be  styled  the 
head-qUarters  in  this  business ;    not  that  many  of 
its  citizens  had  embarked  in  his  schemes,  but 
rather  as  forming  a  kind  of  centnU  point  for  the 
preparation  and  equipment  of  his  flotilla.     From 
every  info)  mation  wLich  I  have  been  able  to  col- 
lect,  this  affair  still  remains  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of 
mystery.     Thi '.  '.Uirr  ever  seriously  meditated  a 
separation  of  the  western  states  is  highly  impro- 
bable;    he  too  well    knew   the    enthusiastic    at- 
tachment  of  the  inhabitants  to  our  present  govern- 
ment.     The  seizure  of  ihe  Spanish  dominions, 
without  the  immediate  aid  of  Wilkinson  and  the 
army,  is  equally  absurd,  as  his  whole  force  would 
not  have  amounted   to  more  than  three  hundred 
men.     And,  lastly,  his  intended  settlement  on  the 
Washita   appears  equally  distant  from   the   real 
object  in  view  ;  for  here  it  is  a  well  known  fact,  that 
what  little  preparations  had  been  made,  were  more 
for  a  military  than  agricultural  expedition.      In 
short,  I  have  conversed  with  some  who  were  on 
board  the/e«?/,  who  laugh  at  the  idea  of  "  leaving 
*'  their  friends  and  families,  and  a  healthy  country, 
^*  to  JTo  and  settle  a  m>amp,  in  the  most  unhealthy 
*'  j>m;    of  all  Louisiana  !'* 


/■ 


W 


166 


m 


It 
li 
ii 
« 
it 

u 

H 
it 
U 
*t 
U 
« 
(( 

ti 
tt 
tt 


The  only  rational  conjecture,  and  which  is  the 
pi-evailing  one  ia  this  country,  is,  "  that  as  the 
"  prospect  of  an  immediate  war  between  the  United 
"  States  and  Spain  at  that  period  appeared  to  be 
"  unavoidable,  Burr's  primary  object  was  the  sei- 
"  zure  of  Baton  Rouge,  and  afterwards  of  Mexico, 
"  with  the  aid  and  assistance  of  Wilkinson's  army  ; 
"  but  matters  having  been  mysteriously  arranged 
"  with  the  Spaniards,  Burr,  notwithstanding,  perse. 
"  vered   in  his  plans ;   and,  had  the  counsel  and 

4/ 


* 

* 
* 


at 

* 

at 
* 

* 

* 
* 


* 


* 

'  « 
* 

lit 

« 

* 


"  until  he  was  denounced  to  the  government ;  and 
"  thereby  frustrated  a  scheme  which,  had  it  suc- 
"  ceeded,  would  probably  have  secured  an  empire 


167 


'•  (without  endangering  our  own)  to  one  whose 
"  daring  genius  and  towering  ambition  at  least  as 
"  well  deserved  it  as  Bo.iaparte,  into  whose  hands 
"  it  will  probably  soon  fall." 

I  believe  I  neglected  to  inform  you,  in  my  last, 
that  since  I  have  navigated  the  Ohio,  I  have  had  the 
honour  of  being  promoted  to  a  captaincy  ;  yet  such 
is  the  case.  I  shouid  scarcely  have  thought  of 
the  circumstance  again  had  not  a  fellow  just  now 
called  me  mister;  for  having  become  familiarized 
to  the  appellation  of  "  captain,"  it  appeared  some- 
thing like  an  attempt  to  diminish  my  consequence. 
In  order  that  you  may  understand  me  better,  you 
will  recollect  that  I  informed  you  I  had  purchased  a 
keel  boat  at  Pittsburgh,  and  hired  two  hands,  be- 
sides  a  passenger  who  volunteered  as  a  pilot ;  con- 
sequently I  became  the  master;  and  here  the 
master  of  every  boat,  should  she  even  be  no  larger 
than  a  cimoe,  is  always  a  ''  captain." 

Cincinnati  is  four  hundred  and  ninety  miles 
from  Pittsburgh  ;  but,  before  I  proceed  to  give 
you  an  account  of  that  place,  it  is  necessary  you 
should  know  how  I  got  there. 

After  leaving  Marietta  we  descended  eight 
miles,  and  arrived  at  Vienna,  a  small  town,  con- 
taining twelve  houses-  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
left  side  of  the  Ohio,  in  the  State  of  Virginia,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Little  Kanawa  River,  which  here 
discharges  itself  into  tiie  Ohio.     This  is  a  thick 


*        I,' 


168 


#*' 


III  •• ' 


and  turbid  stream,  navigable  for  ten  or  twelve 
miles  only,   and  about  one  hundred  and  thirty 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth.     Immediately  opposite 
is  another  small  settlement,  called  Bellepre ;  and 
one  mile  below,  is  Blannerhasset's  Island.     This 
name,   I  presume,  by  this  time,  is    quite  fami- 
liar  to  your  ear,  as  the  proprietor  was  to  have 
been  Burr's  first  admiral  in  the  intended  expedition 
to  Mexico.     The  house  being  large  and  spacious, 
and  the  grounds  laid  out  with  a  great  deal  of  taste 
and  elegance,  afford  a  very  striking  contrast  to  the 
rest  of  the  country,  which,  being  still  in  a  state  of 
nature,  conspires  to  render  this  little  elysium  the 
mo5t  enphanting  spot  I  ever  saw. 

As  it  is  extremely  tedious  for  me,  and  must  be 
equally  unpro^table  for  you,  to  run  over  a  duU 
list  of  all  the  trifling  dry  creeks  we  pass,  I  shall, 
in  future,  confine  myself  to  describing  such  as 
may  be  considered  of  some  consequence,  re- 
ferring  you  to  the  maps  for  those  of  minor  im- 
portiince,  the  most  of  which,  at  present,  have  not 
any  water,  and  are  generally  denominated  drt/ 
creeks. 

Big  Hockhocking  River  fal's  into  tlie  Ohio 
twenty -five  riiiles  b.qjow  Marietta,  is  navigable  for 
abo4t  sixty  or  seventy  miles,  and  is  one  hundred 
yard^  wide  at  its,ni<j)uth.  Some  considerable  set- 
tlemkits  are  mad^;  to  wards  its  head;  and  several 
salt  springs,  of  no  very  great  strength  however, 
1 


169 

are  found  in  its  vicinity ;  as  likewise  iron  ore,  and 
coal  m  abundance.  The  mouth  of  this  river  lies 
m  latitude  about  39.  11.  N.  and  81.  36.  W 

Belleville,  a  small  settlement  of  half  a  dozen 
houses   lies  three  miles  below  Hockhocking,  on 
the    Virginia  shore.     Forty  miles  farther   down 
IS  Letart's  Falls,  the  name  of  which,  to  stran- 
gers,   ,s  always  more  terrific  than  the  passage. 
These  falls,  so  called,  are  nothing  more  than  a 
considerable  ripple,  over  which  a  person  may  de- 
scend m  a  canoe  in  safety.     The  ripple  is  caused 
by  the  obstruction  of  part  of  the  channel  with 
rocks  ;  but  those  who  have  the  least  acquaintance 
with  water  courses  will  immediately  perceive  the 
deepest  part  of  the  channel. 

Point  Pleasant  is  handsomely  situated  on  the 
Virgmia  shore,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and 
Great  Kanawa  Rivers ;  at  present  it  contains  no 
more  than  thirteen  houses,  but  from  its  situation 
will  continue  to  improve.     The  Great   Kanawa 
falls  into  the  Ohio  two  hundred  and  seventy-two 
miles  below  Pittsburgh.     One  branch  of  it  rises 
m  North  Carolina,  while  another,  in  an  opposite 
direction,  almost  interlocks  with  the  head  of  the 
Monongahela.     It  is  about  two  hundred  and  sixty 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  nearly 
two  hundred  miles,  though  with  considerable  ob.    * 
structions.     I  was  here  shewn  tlie  place  where  a 
severe  engagement  was  fought  between  the  Dela- 

VOL.  I.  V 


i  I 


iiii 


170 


warfs,  Shawanese  and  other  Indians,  and  a  de- 
tachment of  the  Virginia  militia,  which  finally 
ended  in  the  defeat  of  the  Indians,  great  numbers 
of  whom  were  shot  and  drowned  in  attempting  to 
cross  the  river. 

Galliopolis  is  situated  four  miles  below  Point 
Pleasant,  on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  on  a  low 
rich  tract  of  land.  It  was  first  setded  by  a  num- 
ber of  French  families,  and  is  said  to  have  once 
contained  near  one  hundred  houses.  At  present 
it  is  fast  declining,  most  of  the  inhabitants  having 
removed,  in  consequence  of  the  sickliness  of 
the  place.  The  land  immediately  back  of  the 
town  is  low,  having  several  stagnant  ponds  and 
marshes,  which,  no  doubt,  are  the  cause  of  its  un« 
healthiness.  This  evil,  I  am  of  opinion,  might 
easily  be  remedied,  and  at  a  very  trifling  expense, 
considering  the  magnitude  of  the  object.  When- 
ever the  river  is  high,  and  overflows  its  banks,  a 
considerable  current  sets  through  these  ponds; 
this  is  evident  from  the  quantity  of  drift-wood 
lying  upon  their  margins,  which  could  have  got 
there  by  no  ovher  means.  Taking  advantage  of 
this  circumstance,  when  the  water  is  low,  a  canal 
or  sluice  might  easily  be  opened  to  the  river 
both  above  and  below  the  town,  which,  passing 
through  these  ponds,  would,  with  every  rise  of -the 
tide,  overflow  them,  and  thus  eftectually  free  them 
from  the   stagnant  matter   which  they   contain. 


id  a  dC' 
1  finally 
numbers 
ipting  to 

m  Point 
Dn  a  low 
'  a  num- 
ave  once 

present 
s  having 
iness  of 
:  of  the 
>nds  and 
)f  its  im- 
1,  might 
expense, 

When- 
banks,  a 

ponds ; 
ift-wood 
have  got 
ntage  of 
,  a  canal 
he   river 

passing 
ie  of  4;he 
ee  them 
contain. 


m 

The  compact  part  of  the  town  at  present  cpnsists 
of  about  twenty.five  houses ;  and  the  land  ob 
which  it  stands  has  evidently  been  formed  by  accu- 
mulations  from  each  successive  flood  At  present, 
by  some  change  in  the  course  of  the  current,  it  is 
hst  washing  away  again ;  so  that,  in  all  probability, 
in  fifty  years  to  come,  even  the  site  of  Galliopolis 
will  be  forgotten.  Trees  which  have  been  buried 
for  ages,  are  now  seen  exposed  in  every  part  of  the 
bank,  as  it  daily  tumbles  into  the  river.  I  was  in- 
formed that  a  very  valuable  salt  spring  had  lately 
been  discovered,  not  far  from  the  town;  but  as  I  had 
already  taken  my  departure  before  I  was  apprized 
of  this  circumstance,  I  had  not  an  opportunity 
of  examining  its  strength  and  quality.  There 
are  several  Indian  mounds  to  be  seen  in  this 
neighbourhood ;  but  as  they  may  be  considered  as 
trifling,  when  compared  with  those  I  have  already 
described,  I  know  you  will  not  thank  me  for  the 
little  I  can  say  on  the  subject. 

The  land  on  the  Virginia  shore  is  much  more 
elevated  than  that  on  the  Ohio  side,  and  along  the 
river  is  said  to  be  equally  good;  but  the  greatest 
proportion  of  bottom  land  is  evidently  on  the  Ohio 
shore. 

After  leaving  Galliopolis,  we  descended  fifty, 
eight  miles,  without  passing  any  thing  worth  noti- 
cing,  except  scattering  settlements  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  till  we  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  Big 
Sandy,  River  a  considerable  stream,  but  not  navi- 


172 

gable.  This  river  falls  into  the  Ohio  from  the  left, 
is  the  boundary  line  between  the  States  of  Virginia 
and  Kentucky,  and  lies  in  latitude  38.  25.  N.  and 
82.  23.  W. 

I  may  probably  be  detained  here  for  a  day  or 
two,  as  I  have  to  procure  a  new  set  of  hands,  the 
engagement  with  those  I  have  hitherto  had  having 
-xpired.  It  is  therefore  likely  you  may  hear  from 
me  again  before  I  set  off  from  this  place. 

Yours, 


C.  S. 


173 


LETTER  XV. 

Newport,  Kentucky,  October  6,  1807. 


Dear  Friend, 


f 


MY  last  left  us,  I  think,  at  Big  Sandy  River, 
three  hundred  and  thirty  mUes  from  Pittsburgh. 
Twenty  miles  below   this  river  we  passed  the 
French  Grant,  which  is  a  tract  of  twenty  thousand 
acres,  in  the  State  of  Ohio,  granted  by  Congress  for 
the  relief  of  the  French  inhabitants  of  Galliopolis 
as  some  indemnifir  >ion  for   the  failure  of  their 
titles  to  the  land      ey  first  settled  on.     Most  of 
tiiem,  however,  have  transferred  their  rights,  and 
fixed  themselves  on  the  Mississippi,  veiy  few  having 
attempted  a  second  settlement  on  the  Ohio.     De 
scending  from  thence  eighteen  miles,  we  arrived 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Sciota  River,  which  is 
said  to  flow  through  a  tract  of  the  richest  land  in 
the  State  of  Ohio. 

The  Great  Sciota  is  a  very  considerable  river 
being  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  yards  wide  at 


; 


i'\ 


.       "J'^-^^!i'->.-...~*,. 


174 


its  mouth,  and  navigable  for  a  distance  of  one 
hundred  and  ninety  miles ;  it  likewise  affords  a 
very  easy  communication  with  Lake  Erie,  ap- 
proaching to  within  three  miles  of  a  branch  of 
Simdusky  River,  which  empties  into  that  lake. 
The  waters  of  this  river  are  said  to  possess  strong 
petrescent  qualities ;  and  when  the  stream  is  low, 
a  variety  of  specimens  of  petrefactions  may  be 
found  in  its  bed.  We  had  not  the  good  fortune 
to  arrive  at  such  a  time ;  for  although  the  Ohio 
continued  low,  the  Great  Sciota,  from  some  heavy 
rains  above,  was  very  full,  and  marked  its  cur- 
rent quite  across  the  middle  of  the  Ohio.  It  lies 
in  latitude  38.  44.  N.  and  82.  49.  W. 

Chilicothe^  the  seat  of  government  for  the  State 
of  Ohio,  is  about  sixty-six  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  this  river,  and  is  said  to  contain  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  houses,  many  of  which  are 
large  and  elegant  buildings.  The  situation,  I  am 
told,  is  not  verj'  eligible,  on  account  of  thfc  low- 
ness  of  the  ground,  which  makes  it  very  unhealthy, 
and  subject  to  periodical  fevers.  On  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ohio,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Sciota,  is  the  site  of 
a  small  town  called  Portsmouth  ;  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  same  stream,  another,  named 
Alexandria,  containing  eight  houses.  Both  of 
these  towns  are  quite  new  settlements,  and  situa- 
ted on  a  narrow  strip  of  rich  bottom,  of  only  threer 


175 


quarters  of  a  mile  in  depth,  behind  which  the  land 
suddenly  rises  into  hills  and  mountains. 

Vangeville  is  another  small  town,  of  half  a  do- 
zen houses,  situated  on  the  Ohio  and  Salt  Creek, 
in  the  State  of  Kentucky,  about  twenty-one  miles 
below  the  Great  Sciota.  Two  or  three  miles  up 
this  Creek  arc  found  some  very  good  salt  springs, 
where  some  considerable  quantities  of  salt  are 
made.  The  price  at  the  works  is  two  dollars  a 
bushel  of  fifty  pounds.  This  creek  was  perfectly 
dry  at  the  time  of  my  arrival,  nor  is  it  navigable 
at  any  time. 

The  salt  springs  of  Vangeville  bear  no  kind  of 
comparison  with  those  of  Onondago,  either  in 
strength  or  quality,  requiring  three  hundred  gallons 
of  water  to  make  one  bushel  of  inferior  salt.  They 
have  about  two  hundred  kettles  of  twenty-five  gol 
Ions  each,  in  constant  operation,  and  when  th^ 
brine  is  strongest,  will  Miake  about  forty  bushels 
in  twenty-four  hours ;  but  as  the  springs  are  sub- 
ject to  be  inundated  with  every  rise  of  the  river, 
the  works  are  frequently  stopped  altogether. 

The  land  from  the  Kentucky  line,  at  Big  Sandy 
River,  to  this  place,  which  is  a  distance  of  seven- 
ty  miles,  presents  a  rough  and  hilly  country,  as 
far  as  can  be  seen  from  the  river,  excepting  some 
small  bottoms,  alternately  found,  first  on  one  side 
and  then  on  the  other. 


I        r 


m  -m 


''i^^.    lyii^  im*ui.M 


* 


176 

This  country  appears  to  be  completely  over- 
run    vith  innumerable  quantities   of  black   and 
grey  squirrels.     The  river,  since  we  left  Marietta, 
has  afforded  us  an  abundant  supply  of  these  ani' 
mals,  without  any  trouble  on  our  part,  as  our 
boat  had  continually  five  or  six  of  them  on  board, 
who  clambered  up  the  oars  in  order  to  rest  them' 
selves.     I  have  counted  no  less  than  forty-seven 
at  one  time  swimming  across  the  river  in  differ- 
entdiiections.    The  shores  on  each  side  of  the  ri 
ver  are  literally    lined   with  drowned  squirrels ; 
and  I  suppose  that  one  third  at  least  of  those  who 
take  to  the  river  perish  in  the  water.     They  all  ap. 
psai-  to  be  migrating  to  the  southward.     Higher 
up  the  river  we  found  them  very  fat,  and  they  af. 
forded  us  maity  delicious  repasts ;  but  they  have 
now  become  too  poor  to  be  eatable. 

Although,  in  one  of  my  former  letters,  I  descri- 
bed  the  navigation  of  the  Ohio  to  be  perfectly  safe, 
yet  experience  has  shewn  me  it  is  at  least  necessa- 
ry to  keep  a  constant  look  out.  We  were  about  three 
miles    below   Salt    Lick   Creek  when  our   boat 
drifted  very  gently  against  a  pointed  log  or  snag, 
which  was  barely  covered  with  water.     The  boat 
Vas  under  such  moderate  wav,  that  we  had  not  the 
least  idea  that  she  was  injured,  as  she  wheeled 
around  and  continued  her  course.     I  soon,  how- 
ever, perceived  the  water  rising  fast  over  the  tim- 
bers,   and   at  the   same   time   heard  a   rippling 


m 

nois.    which  I  at  first  supposed  was  occasioned  by 
the  current,  but  was  soon  convinced  that  it  pro- 
cecdcd  from  the  leaking  of  the  boat.     I  removed 
some  of  the  baggage,  and  perceiving  the  water 
gushmg  in  with  violence,   thrust   an    old   great 
coat  into  the  hole,  and  directed  my  men  to  make 
for  the  shore,  where  we  unloaded,  and  drew  the 
boat  out  of  the  water.     On  examination  we  found 
one  of  the  plank  stove  through ;  but  by  means 
of  a  tbin  piece  of  board  and  a  few  nails,  we  soon 
covered  the  fracture,  and  payed  it  over  with  some 
of  the  rich  mud  of  the  Ohio,  which,  on  this  occa- 
sion,  answered  all  the  purposes  of  tar,  without  the 
trouble  of  boiling. 

After  repairing   the  boat,  and   reloading   our 
trumpery,  we  set  forward  again,  when,  just  as  we 
turned  a  short  bend  in  the  river,  we  discovered  a 
bear  tliiat  had  taken  to  the  water,  with  an  intention 
of  crossmg  to  the  opposite  side.  We  immediately 
manned  our  oars  with  all.  hands  in  order  to  come 
up  with  him,  but  all  to  no  purpose,  for  as  soon  as 
he  perceived  our  intention,  he  prudently  turned 
about,   and  recovered  the  shore  he  had  left  be 
fore  we  could  come  within  gun  shot.     We  had 
better  luck,  however,  in  the  afternoon  :  seeing  a 
deer  make  the  same  attempt,  we  despatched  two 
hands  m  our  light  canoe  after  him,  who,  after  cut- 
tmg  hun  off  from  th^  shore,  and  forcing  him  again 

VOL.  I.  »  ° 


-. 


^-  'rs 


^^Se;.:;^^' 


178 


to  the  middle  of  the  river,  determined  not  to  shoot 
him,  but  give  him  fair  play,  and  either  take  him 
alive  or  suffer  him  to  escape  :  after  a  chase  of 
nearly  five  miles,  they  seized  him  by  the  horns 
and  dragged  him  ashore. 

Eleven  miles  below  Salt  Creek  I  was  informed 
we  should  pass  a  town  called  Adamsburgh,  and, 
ahhough  it  was  noon  day  when  we  arrived  at  the 
place  designated,  I  could  not  see  any  thing  like 
it,  unless  two  solitary  huts  were  intended  by  our 
informer.  Manchester  lies  six  miles  lower;  it 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in  the 
State  of  Ohio,  and  contains  eighteen  houses.  Just 
above  this  town  lies  an  island,  which  divides  the 
river  into  two  channels.  Finding  ourselves  nearest 
to  the  one  on  the  right  shore,  we  entered  that,  but 
it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  we  forced  our 
way  through  it.  We  all  jumped  overboard  in  or- 
der to  lighten  the  boat,  when,  by  lifting  and  drag- 
ging her,  and  shifting  our  baggage  fore  and  aft, 
as  occasion  required,  we  succeeded  in  getting 
thro'igh.  This  channel  is  fast  filling  up,  and  the 
probability  is,  that  in  a  year  or  two  more  it  will 
be  altogether  impassable. 

You  will  naturally  inquire  why  I  have  said  no- 
thing respecting  the  trade  of  the  numerous  towns 
already  described  on  the  Ohio  ?  One  answer  will 
serve  for  the  whole,  viz.  they  are  all  too  new 
to  attend  to  any  manufactures  further  than  their 


179 

immediate  necessities  require,  and,  therefore  only 
serve  us  points  for  transporting  the  surplus  protluce 
of  the  adjacent  country  down  the  Ohio.  This,  and 
boat  building,  in  which  all  the  more  considerable 
towns  are  engaged,  constitutes  the  whole  of  their 
trade.  Ten  miles  below  Manchester  is  likewise 
said  to  be  a  town  called  Liberty,  which,  although 
situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  cannot  be  seen 
'for  want  of  a  few  houses.  This  I  am  informed 
will  be  the  case  with  a  number  of  other  towns 
down  the  river,  where  town  making  has  been  car- 
ried on  with  considerable  spirit.  There  is  only 
one  difficulty  they  have  to  overcome,  in  order  to 
ensure  success  to  the  whole,  viz*  half  a  dozen 
houses  to  each  town,  and  half  a  dozen  inhabitants 
to  each  house.  After  passing  this  intended  town 
of  Liberty  about  two  miles,  we  arrived  at  Lime- 
stone, situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  in  the 
State  of  Kentucky,  four  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
distant  from  Pittsburgh.  It  lies  in  latitude  38. 
36.  N.  and  83.  38.  W. 

Limestone  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  settlement  in 
the  State  of  Kentucky.  The  town,  which  con- 
sists of  about  eighty  houses,  is  built  on  a  flat  in  a 
bend  of  the  river,  and  commands  a  pleasing  view 
of  the  stream  both  above  and  below ;  and,  from 
the  great  number  of  boats  of  every  description  ly- 
ing  along  the  shore,  must  hove  a  very  considera- 
ble share  of  business.     Ship  building,  I  was  in- 


r-- 


■«1 


180 

formed,  is  likewise  carried  on  with  much  spirit, 
but  I  saw  nothing  of  the  kind  going  on  while  I 
was  there. 

The  river  had  made  very  considerable  encroa-h- 
ments  upon  the  town,  by  washing  away  the  banks; 
so  that  in  some  places  there  is  barely  room  between 
the  houses  and  the  edge  of  the  bank  for  a  passa. 
ble  road.  A  year  or  two  more,  especially  if  as- 
sisted  by  any  extraordinary  freshes,  will  either  swal- 
low up  those  on  the  margin  of  the  bank,  or  oblige 
their  inhabitants  to  remove  them  to  some  more 
permanent  foundation. 

Lexington,  which  is  the  largest  tovra  in  the  State 
of  Kentucky,  is  only  sixty.five  miles  distant  from 
this  place ;  it  is  said  to  be  nearly  five  times  as 
large  as  Lmiestone,  and  situated  in  one  of  the 
finest  countries  in  the  world. 

Limestone  Creek  falls  hito  the  Ohio  immediately 
above  the  town.  I  understand  that  this  is  sometimes 
a  considerable  stream  ;    but,    at  present,  its  bed 
which  is  at  least  six  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
river,  is  perfectly  dry.      This  is  the  case  with 
most  of  the  creeks  which  empty  into  the  Ohio 
although  at  other  times  they   rush    down    witli 
all  the  appearance  of  large  mid  permanent  rivers. 
After  leaving  Limestone  six  miles,  we  came  in 
sight  of  Charlestown,  likewise  in  the  State  of  Ken- 
tucky.     Tliis  place  contains  about  forty  houses, 


l^ 


161 

and  makes  a  respectable  appearance  from  the  river. 

Twelve  ruiles  lower  we  passed  the  town  of  Au. 

gusta,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in 

the  State  of  Ohio,  and  containing  about  thirty 

houses.      Thirty-seven    miles    below    Augusta, 

the  Little  Miami  River  puts  in  from  the  right ;' 

immediately  above  which,  is  the  site  of  a  small 

town  called  Cohimbia,  consisting  of  about  one 

dozen   scattered   houses.      Seven    miles   further 

down  stands  the  town   of  Cincinnati,  the  largest 

town  on  the  Ohio  below  Pittsburgh,  from  whence 

It  is  distant  about  four  hundred  and  eighty  miles, 

and  lies  in  latitude  39.  6.  N.  and  84.  18.  W. 

Cincinnati  is  handsomely  situated  on  an  eleva- 
ted bank  on  the  right  side  of  the  Ohio,  and  was, 
until  lately,  the  seat  of  government  for  the  North- 
West  Territory ;  ii  contains  about  three  hundred 
houses,  among  which  are  found  several  very  gen- 
teel buildings ;  it  has  a  bank,  market-house,  print- 
ing  office,  and  a  number  of  stores  well  stocked 
with  every  kind  of  merchandise  in  demand  in  this 
country.     The  markets  are  well  furnished,  both 
as  to  abundance  and  variety.     Superfine  flower  is 
selling  at  three  and  a  half  and  four  dollars  by  the 
single  barrel,  and  other  articles  are  proportionably 
cheap.    Ordinary  manufactures  they  have  likewise 
in  plenty ;    and  the  country  around,  being  rich 
and  level,  produces  all  the  necessaries  of  life  with 
but  little  labour.    Fort  Washington  is  situated 


I 


\   ,1 


/J/ 


KOlllllliUfci 


182 


immediately  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  and  al- 
though, from  the  increased  population  of  the  coun- 
try, it  is  at  present  useless,  yet,  in  the  early  settie- 
ment  of  this  place,  it  was  a  post  of  considerable 
importance  in  checking  the  incursions  and  ravages 
of  the  Indians. 

Immediately  opposite  Cincinnati  is  the  entrance 
of  Licking  River,  a  considerable  stream,  nearly  as 
large  as  the  Alleghany,  and  navigable  for  about 
one  hundred  miles.  On  the  point  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  two  streams,  is  situated  the  town 
of  Newport,  in  the  State  of  Kentucky,  consisting 
of  about  thirty  houses.  This  is  likewise  a  military 
station,  containing  at  all  times  a  considerable  sup- 
ply of  milit^  stores  for  the  convenience  of  the 
western  country.  Here  we  found  two  gun  boats 
belonging  to  the  United  States,  waiting  for  a  fresh 
to  take  them  over  the  falls ;  they  were  built  at 
Marietta,  and  are  about  the  size  of  large  Albany 
sloops. 

I  first  noticed  the  growth  of  the  cane  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Great  Sciota  River,  which 
lies  near  the  thirty-eighth  degree  of  north  latitude. 
There  it  was  very  small,  rising  to  little  more  than 
three  feet  in  height ;  but,  as  you  descend,  you  ob- 
serve it  to  increase  in  size  and  quantity,  until  the 
banks  of  the  river  become  covered  with  an  im- 
penetrable growth. 


■-'-*-i#*i. 


■■''i*».ij»«*~^tt,_. 


Ig3 

I  shall  set  cut  from  this  place  to-morrow,  but 
intend  to  make  some  stay  at  the  Falls  of  Ohio, 
from  whence  you  will  hear  from  me  again. 


yours, 


c.  s. 


t  .  \' 


184 


LETTER  XVI. 

Louisvilie,  Kentucky,  {Falls  of  Ohio,) 
October  10,  1807. 


Dear  Friend, 

AFTER  leaving  Newport,    and    descending 
the  nver  twenty-four  miles,  you  pass  the  mouth 
of  the  Great  Miami  River,  which  falls  into  the 
Ohio  from  th^  right  side,  near  the  line  which  di- 
vides  the  State  of  Ohio  from  the  Indiana  Territo- 
ry.    This  is  a  large  and  rapid  river,  being  nearly 
two  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  although  it 
IS  said  to  lose  much  of  its  breadth  as  you  ascend 
towards    its    source:   it    is    navigable    for  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles.     One  of  its  branches 
approaches  within  four  miles  of  a  branch  of  the 
Miami  of  the  Lake;  while  another,  by  a  portage 
of  seven  or  eight  miles,  communicates  with  the 
Sandusky  River,  which  likewise  empties  itself  into 
Lake  Erie.    The  Great  Miami,  I  am  informed, 
becomes  somewhat  difficult  of  navigation  for  the 
last  forty  or  fifty  mUes,  the  charniel  being  stony 


185 

and  the  current  very  swift.     Forts  Washington 
Ham,hon,  St.  Clair,  Jefibrsbn,  GrcnvilJe,  Reco! 
very,  Acfeims  and  Defiance,  are  u  chain  of  posts 
commanding  a  ready  communication  Ix^tween  the 
Ohio  and  Lake  Erie,  by  means  of  the  two  Mi. 
amis      The  rapid  increase  of  population  through- 
out this  charming  country  will,  in  all  probability 
shortly  preclude  the  necessity  of  retaining  them 
for  the   same  puqwse.     Two  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Great  Miami  is  the  «te  of  a  small 
town   named  Lawrenceburgh ;    this   is  only  re 
markable  as  being  the  first  town  and  settlement 
you  pass  in  the  Indiana  Territory.    Descending 
thence  twenty-four  miles,  we  arrived  at  Big  Bone 
Lhik  Creek,  in  the  State  of  Kentucky. 

Big  Bone  Lick  is  celebrated  for  the  incredibly 
large  bones  found  in  its  vicinity,  which  have  not 
only  amazed  and  astonished,  but  likewise  puzzled 
the  learned  world.  Horns  have  been  found  here 
measuring  fifteen  feet  in  length,  fifteen  inches  in 
Circumference,  and  M'eighing  nearly  one  hundred 
pounds;  teeth  or  grinders  from  five  to  twelve 
pounds  weight,  and  other  bones  in  proportion. 

That  this  animal,  which  has  been  denominated 
the  mammoth,  is  now  extinct,  is,  I  believe,  the  gene 
rally  received  opinion,  although,  I  am  informed,  the 
Indians  cherish  a  tradition  that  he  still  exists  un- 
known in  the  west.* 

*  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his  Notes  on  Virginia,  informs  us, 
that  several  chiefs  of  the  Delaware^  being  n-ltod  hv  a  Go. 


A 


' 


VOL.   I. 


A  a 


f 


186 

You  no  doubt  recollect  the  skeleton  of  one 
which  was  exhibited,  a  few  years  since  in  the  city 
of  New-York;  this,  at  that  time,  I  thought  a 
monster,  yet  it  was  far  from  being  as  large  as 
those  to  which  the  largest  of  these  bones  once 
belonged.  This  unwieldy  monster  has  been  sup- 
posed, by  competent  judges,  to  have  bee*?  three 
or  four  times  as  large  as  the  greatest  elep'  \o 

vcrnor  of  Virginia  what  they  knew  or  had  heard  respecting 
this  animal,  the  chief  speaker  immediately  put  himself 
into  an  oratorical  attitude,  and  with  a  pomp  suited  to  the 
supposed  elevation  of  his  subject,  informed  him,  that  it 
was  a  tradition  handed  down  from  their  fathers,  "  That  in 
«  ancient  times  a  herd  of  them  came  to  Big  Bone  Lick,  and 
«  began  a  universal  destruction  of  the  bears,  deer,  elks, 
«  buffaloes,  ahd  other  animals  which  had  been  created  for 
«  the  use  of  the  Indians  ;  that  th  :reat  Man  above,  looking 
«  down  and  seeing  this,  was  so  enraged  that  he  seized  his 
"  lightning,  descended  to  the  earth,  seated  himself  upon 
«  a  neighbouring  mountain  on  a  rock,  on  which  his  seat 
«  and  the  print  of  his  feet  are  still  to  be  seen,  and  hurled 
«'  his  bolts  among  them,  until  the  whole  were  slaughtered 
«  except  the  big  bull,  who  presented  his  forehead,  to  the 
«  shafts  and  shook  them  off  as  they  fell ;  but  at  length 
«  missing  one,  it  wounded  him  in  the  side ;  whereupon, 
«  springing  round,  he  bounded  over  Ohio,  the  Wabash  and 
«  the  Illinois,  and  finally  over  the  Great  Lakes,  where  he 
«  is  living  to  this  day." 

Col.  Morgan  informs  us,  that  upon  putting  similar 
queries  to  a  chief  of  the  Iroquois  tribe,  whom  he  saw  at 
the  Lick,  he  delivered  himself  as  follows :  "  After  the  Great 
«  Spirit  first  formed  the  world  he  made  the  various 
«  birds  and  beasts  which  now  inhabit  it.     He  also  made 


187     . 

is  a  graminivorous  animal ;  whereas  this  is  now  sup- 
posed to  have  been  carnivorous.  If  so,  it  surely 
does  not  appear  to  have  been  well  calculated  lor 
an  inhabitant  of  this  part  of  the  globe  in  its  pre- 
sent state.  Quere.  May  they  not  have  lived  in  the 
early  part  of  my  twenty -seven  thousand  years,  and 
the  species  have  been  destroyed  by  the  general  de- 
luge ?  Or  is  it  possible  for  the  bones  of  any  animal, 
in  so  exposed  a  situation,  to  resist  the  iron  tooth  of 


"  man  ;  but  having  formed  him  white.,  and  finding  him  im- 
"  perfect  and  ill  tempered,  he  placed  him  on  one  side  of 
"  the  earth,  from  whence  he  lately  found  a  passage  across 
"  the  great  water  to  be  a  plague  to  us.     As  the  Great  Spirit 
«  was  not  pleased  with  this  work,  he  took  some  black  clay, 
«  and  made  what  you  call  a  negro,  with  a  woolly  head. 
"  This  black  man  was  much  better  than  tlie  white  man, 
«'  b^t  still  he  did  not  please  the  Great  Spirit.     At  last  the 
«  Great  Spirit,  having  found   a  piece  of  pure  red  clay, 
"  formed  of  it  tlie  red  man,  perfectly  to  his  mind ;  and  was 
«  so  wel'  pleased  with  him  that  he  placed  him  on  this  great 
"  island,  separate  from  the  white  and  black  men,  and  gave 
"  him  rules  for  his  conduct.     He  increased  exceedingly, 
"  and  was  perfectly  happy  for  ages  ;  but  the  foolish  young 
"  people  at  length  despising  his  rules,  became  very  wicked. 
"  Inconsequence  of  this,  the  Great  Spirit  created -the  great 
"  buffalo,  the  bones   of  which  you  now  see    before  us ; 
"  these   made    war    upon  the    human    species,   and  de- 
"  stroyed  all  but  a  few,  who  repented,  and  promised  the 
"  Great  Spirit  to  live  according  to  his  laws   in    future  ; 
"  whereupon  he  sent  thunder  aiid  lightning,  and  destroyed 
*'  the  whole  race  in  this   spot,  two  excepted,  a  male  and' 
"  female,  which  he  shut  up  in  yonder  mountain,  ready  to 
«  let  loose  again,  should  occasion  require." 


# 


188 


ume  during  ao  long  a  period  ?  Here  is  indeed  an 
extensive  fteld  for  the  speculations  of  the  curious. 
I  have  no  doubt  you  would  be  highly  gratified  to 
see  it  as  ably  handled  as  my  ingenious  calcuia- 
tion  on  the  destruction  of  the  bed  of  the  river  by 
the  Falls  of  Niagara  ! 

Thirty  miles  below  Big  Bone  Lick  Creek,  and 
on  the  same  side,  you  perceive  the  Kentucky  Ri- 
ver,  which,  after  having  traversed  the  State  in  its 
widest   part,  and   passing  through    innumerable 
tracts  of  the  finest  lands,  here  discharges  its  waters 
into  the  general  receiver,  the  Ohio.     This  river  is 
one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  is  navigable 
for  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  during  a  great 
part  of  the  year ,  but  in  dry  seasons  it  is  frequent- 
ly obstructed  with  sliallows.     Immediately  at  the 
mouth  of  Kentucky  River,   which  lies  in  latitude 
38.  39.  N.  and  85.  2.   W.  is  situatec^  a  thriving 
little  town  named  Port  William,  consisting  at  pre- 
sent of  about  forty  houses.     Frankfort,  which  is' 
the  seat  of  government,  although  not  the  capital 
of  the  State,  is  situated  on  this  river,  about  sixt}^- 
five  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  is  said  to  be  in  a 
very   flourishing    condition,    containing    already 
about   two  hundred  houses.     Several  kirge  ves- 
sels have  been  launched  on  this  river,  and  de- 
scended to  New.  Orleans.   Westport  is  forty-eight 
miles  below  Port  William,  and  contains  only  six 
houses.    I  have  observed,  during  my  wholecourse 
down  this  river,  that  the  land  rises  and  falls  alter- 


;  I 


•~A. 


ISO 

mtely  on  each  side :  whenever  you  see  a  flat  on 
one  side  you  will  always  find  a  corre^onding  ele- 
vation on  the  opposite  shore. 

In  descending-  the  Ohio  River  you  frequently 
pass  what  are  here  called  floating  mills ;  they  are 
of  a  very  simple  construction,  and  consequently 
the  more  valuable  in  a  country  so  destitute  of  mill- 
seats  as  this.    The  mill  is  supported  by  two  large 
canoes,  with  the  wheel  between  them;  this   is 
moored  whenever  they  can  fuid  the  strongest  cur- 
rent  nearest  to  the  shore,  by  die  force  of  which 
alone  the  mill  is  put  into  operation.     You  have 
seen  a  razor-grinder  wheeling  his  machine  from 
house  to  house  in  the  city  of  New- York—this  is 
exactly  the  case  with  the  mills  I  am  now  descri- 
bing ;  for  they  are  literally  floated  up  and  down 
the  stream,  wherever  a  customer  calls.     Should  I 
ever  again  attempt  farming,  it  will  most  probably 
be  m  this  new  country,  for  I  well  remember  I  lost 
nearly  one  half  of  all  my  time  and  labour  by  send- 
ing to  mill;  for  let  me  call  for  whom  I  would,  he 
was  always  "  gone  to  the  mill."     Here,  therefore, 
I  may  flatter  myself  with  a  better  prospect  of  sue 
cess,  in  that  particular  at  least,  for  instead  of  the 
farmer's  going  to  niill,  the  mill  eomes  to  him. 

After  leaving  Westport  we  descended  twenty 
miles,  and  found  ourselves  at  the  head  of  the  Falls 
of  Ohio,  before  the  town  of  Louisville,  six  hun-^ 
dred   and  thirty  miles  below  Pittsburgh.     This 
town  is  very  handsomely  situated  oil  an  ekvated 


tl  il 


I 


190 

bank  on  the  left  side  of  the  river,  ui  the  State  of 
Kentucky,  about  eight  hundred  yards  above  the 
commencement  of  the  rapids,  and  contains  one 
hundred  and  twenty  houses  ;  it  is  the  county  town, 
and  carries  on  ship  and  boat- building  with  consi- 
derable spirit ;  several  large  vessels  have  already 
been  built,  and  the;  many  advantages  which  it  en- 
joys in  luia  respect,  over  all  the  towns  above  the 
falls,  bids  fair  to  give  it  all  the  encouragement 
it  can  wish.  The  country  around  Louisville  is 
perfectly  level  for  some  miles,  and  the  elevation  of 
She  town  commands  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the 
smooth  and  gentle  stream  above,  as  well  as  the 
rough  and  foaming  billows  of  die  falls  below. 
Louisville  has  lately  been  erected  into  a  port  of 
entry  and  clearance,  and  lies  in  latitude  38.  14.  N. 
and  85.  29.  W. 

The  river  at  this  place  appears  to  have  acquired 
a  breadth  of  about  one  mile  and  a  quarter ;  and,  as 
the  passage  of  the  falls  is  dangerous  to  strangers 
unacquainted  with  the  navigation,  tlie  court  ap- 
points able  and  experienced  pilots,  who  conduct 
you  over  in  safety.  Our  pilot  informed  us  that 
he  received  the  same  pilotage  for  a  ship  of  three 
hundred  tons  as  for  a  canoe,  which  you  may  carry 
on  your  shoulder,  for,  according  to  the  act,  "  every 
"  boat  shall  pay  two  dollars  for  pilotage." 

These  falls,  which  may  be  considered  as  the 
only  real  obstruction  in  the  navigation  of  the  Ohio 
throughout  a  distance  of  nearly  eleven  hundred 


)i 


191  ^ 

miles,  are  occasioned  by  a  bed  of  solid  rocks  ex- 
tending from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the  other. 
The  water  was  low  when  we  passed  them,  and  ac- 
cording to  the  pilot's  account,  no  more  than  twen- 
ty inches  of  water  over  them.  I  have,  however, 
seen  too  much  water  roll  not  to  be  able  to  form  a 
reasonable  conjecture  of  the  quantity  necessary  to 
raise  so  violent  a  commotion  as  is  here  found,  and 
shall  therefore  venture  to  say  there  could  not  have 
been  less  than  three  feet,  but  probably  more.  You 
will  perhaps  be  surprised  at  my  stupidity  in  not 
sounding  the  falls  on  our  passage  over  them.  I 
certainly  intended  it,  but,  by  beginning  too  soon, 
I  lost  my  pole,  and  before  I  could  procure  anotlier, 
it  being  entangled  under  the  rowers'  oars,  we  had 
passed  the  shoalest  part  of  the  fall. 

When  the  river  is  high,  I  am  told,  there  is  not 
the  least  appearance  of  any  fall,  except  that  the 
current  is  somewhat  swifter  at  this  place  than  or- 
dinary ;  but  when  low,  as  at  present,  nearly  two 
thirds  of  the  breadth  of  the  river  may  be  walked 
over  without  wetting  your  ancle.  There  are  three 
different  passages  or  shoots  over  these  falls,  all 
depending,  however,  on  the  state  of  the  water.  The 
principal  is  nearest  the  Indiana  shore ;  the  middle 
is  the  next  best ;  and  the  third,  or  Kentucky  shoot, 
is  only  passable  with  the  larger  vessels  during  the 
highest  stage  of  the  water.  Two  fine  large  ships, 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  and  three  hundred  tons 
burthen,  were  lying  upon  the   falls  as   we  de- 


m 


\i 


I 


I 


192 


H 


■i 


sccndcd  the  river,  having  attempted  to  pass 
without  a  sufficient  rise  of  the  water ;  they  had 
their  keels  knocked  out,  and  were  otherwise  con- 
sklerably  damaged.  Their  'situations  were  con- 
sidered so  very  precarious  that  the  one  which 
ought  to  have  been  worth  ten  tliousand  dollars, 
was  sold  at  public  auction  for  fifteen  hundred 
only. 

The  descent  of  these  falls  appears  to  have  been 
accurately  surveyed,  and  found  to  be  twenty-two 
feet  and  a  half  in  two  miles.     The  legislature  of 
Kentucky  have  incorporated  a  company  for  the 
purpose  of  opening  a  canal  from  the  mouth  of 
Bear  Grass  Creek,  which  runs  hi  front  of  the 
town  to  the  foot  of  the  falls  below.     The  ground 
has  been  bored,  and  every  way  examined  for  the 
purpose,  and  it  is  considered  as  practicable.     The 
only  difficulty  remaining,  is  that  of  raising  a  suffi- 
cient capital  to  undertake  it.     When,  therefore,   - 
this  is  once  effected,  the  only  serious  obstruction 
in  the  navigation  of  the  Ohio  will  be  removed. 

Immediately  opposite  Louisville,  in  the  Indiana 
Territor}%  is  situated  the  flourishing  little  town 
of  JefFersonville,  consisting  at  present  of  forty 
houses ;  it  bids  fair  to  become  a  place  of  consi- 
derable importance.  At  the  foot  of  the  falls,  and 
in  the  same  territory,  is  another  village,  of  the 
name  of  Clarksville,  consisting  of  four  or  five 
houses  only,  and  situated  a  little  above  the  mouth 


V      ! 


U' 


193 

of  Silver  Creek,  a  small  stream  which  there  empties 
into  the  Ohio. 

It  may  be  of  some  service  to  you,  should  you 
ever  take  a  trip  this  v^xy,  and  become  a  "  cap- 
tain,"  like  myself,  that  I  have  attained  that  honour 
before  you ;    for  aUhough  1  may  not  be  able  to 
instruct  3-ou  what  you  ought  to  do,  yet  my  expe. 
rience  will  enable  me  to  inform  you  what  you  ought 
not  to  do.     You  must   never,  on  any  account, 
advance  money  to  your  boatmen.     One  of  my 
hands,  being  arrested  by  a  constable  for  a  debt  of 
eight  or   ten   dollars,    at  the  moment  we    were 
leaving  the  shore,  I  paid  the  money  without  the 
least  hesitation,  thinking  to  deduct  it  from  his 
wages.   After  descending  a  mile  or  two,  I  observed 
a  fine  stream  of  spring-water  on  the  shore,  and 
expressing  a  desire  to  have  a  keg  filled  with  it, 
this  fellow  was  ready  in  an  instant ;    we  accord' 
ingly  landed  him,  and,  after  waiting  near  an  hour, 
and  receiving  no  answer  to  our  repeated     alls' 
I  sent  our  pilot  after  him ;  but  the  fellow  had  left 
the    keg    at   the    spring,    and    escaped   to   the 
woods.     Another  agreed  with  me  at  Cincinnati  to 
go  the  whole  voyage  down  to  New-Orleans,  or 
up  the  Mississippi,  as  I  should  think  proper,  at 
twenty.five  dollars  a   month.    Just  as  we   were 
ready  to  start,  his  wife  came  down  to  see  him 
off— She  had  no  money— she  might  want  a  little 
before  Josey  returned—and,  finally,  could  not  I 


ii 


vox.  I. 


B  b 


^ 


-x 


^  ^ 


ill 


194 

oblige  her  with  one  month's  advance,  as  Josey 
would  probably  continue  with  me  three  or  four 
months  ?  I  let  her  have  the  twenty -five  dollars, 
and  the  second  night  after,  the  rascal  ran  away  ♦ 


Yours, 


G.  S. 


I 


195 


LETTER  XVII. 

^         Cumberland,  Kentucky,  October  6,  1807. 

Dear  Friend, 

AFTER  leaving  the  FaUs  of  Ohio,  and  de- 
scending twenty -five  miles,  you  pass  the  mouth  of 
Salt  River,  which  enters  the  Ohio  from  the  left 
side.  This  river  takes  its  name  from  some  salt 
springs,  which  are  now  worked,  at  a  considera- 
ble distance  from  its  mouth.  It  is  about  one 
hundred  and  thirty  yards  in  breadth,  and  naviga- 
ble for  a  distance  of  nearly  seventy  miles.  A  small 
town  has  btely  been  laid  out  at  its  mouth,  named 
West- Point,  containing  only  four  houses  or  cabins. 
Five  miles  below  Salt  River  I  expected  to  see  the 
town  of  Ohiopiomingo,  so  beautifully  described 
by  Winterbotham.  I  was  therefore  not  a  little 
disappointed  to  see  it  rivalled  by  the  one  last 
mei\iioned. 

I  observed  that  the  land  on  either  side  to  this 
place  continued  generally  level  from  the  river, 
yet  very  few  settlements  make  their  appearance 


'.^s 


ih. 


B.J 'I 

ft 


196 

in  front  The  greatest  population  is  inland ;  con- 
sequently  the  greatest  improvements  have  been 
made  there. 

Thirty  miles  below  West-Point,  you  pass  Blue 
R.ver    which  comes  in  from  the  right,  through 

M  and  gentle  stream.  It  is  fifty  yards  in  breadth, 
and  navigable  for  forty  miles.    It  is  said,  that  by 
removmg  some  slight  obstructions,  arising  from 
lodges  of  trees  and  driftwood,  the  navigation  may 
be  extended  ten  or  twelve  miles  further.     From 
Blue  River  you  descend  a  distance  of  one  hun- 
dred  and  twenty  miles,  without  passing   either 
to«™  or  streams,  excepting  a  few  dry  c^s,  and 
now  and  then  a  solitary  settlement,  scarcelV  as 
large  as  the  surface  of  your  boat.    Hitherto  the 
landscape  has  been  particularly  pleasing,  affording 
a  most  agreeable   variety   of  hills,  valleys,   ani 
mountams   on  one  side  of  the  river  or  the  other 
but  now, they  have  vanished  entirely  from   the 
?.ght,  and  the  horizon  arom,d  presents  nothi,«.  ,o 
your  view,  but  an  immense  tract  of  level  cham 
paign  country,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  discern. 
^  After   having  proceeded    about    -iiirty    ^Ues 
through  , his  flat  countiy,  you  pass  the  mouth  o 
Green  R,ver,  which  falls  into  the  Ohio  from  the 
left  shore    This  is  a  beautiful  stream,  being  abou 
one  hundred  and  eighty  yards  in  .breadth,  navi.  . 
gable  fo.  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  and  pre- 
»entmg  to  the  eye  a  far  gt^ater  degree  of  tmnspa- 


197 

i^ncy  than  the  Ohio  itself.    Its  mouth  lies  in  lat. 
37  59.  N.  and  long.  37.  13.  W.  Twenty-two  miles 
below  Green  River,  and  likewise  in  the  State  of. 
Kentucky,  you  arrive  at  the  town  of  Henderson, 
or    as  It  IS  more  commonly  called.  Red  Banks. 
This  village,  which  contains  about  forty  houses, 
IS  situated  on  the  second  bank,  about  one  quarte; 
.  of  a  mde  from  the  river,  owing  to  the  nearest 
banks  being  subject  to  be  overflowed  with  every 
ordinary  rise  of  the  river;  which  still  continues 
Its  breadth  of  about  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  nither 
mcreasmg.    Green  River,  befbre  mentioned,  is  no 
more  than  seven  miles  distant  from  Henderson  by 
land,   but  owing  to  an  extraordinary  bend  in  the 
river,  it  is  twenty-five  miles  by  water 

One  evening,  a  little  after  sunset,  bdow  a  place 
called  Diamond  Island,  as  we  were  laHtffng  on  the 
shore,  we  discovered  a  bear  which  had  just  entered 
the  river  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  aboVe  us,  on 
the  opposite  shore,  with  the  intention  of  crowing 
over  to  our  side.    I  have  ever  been  anxious,  while 
on  these  waters,  to  shoot  at  least  one  of  these  ani- 
mals,  but  have  always  been  disappointed.     This  I 
thought  a  most  favourable  opportunity ;  accord- 
mgly  I  took^  a  rifle,  and  proceeded,  under  cover 
ot  the  willows,  to  the  spot  where  I  concluded  the 
current  would  land  him.     I  soon  found  myself 
conveniently    posted;    and   at  the    moment    he     - 
stood  stiU  to  shake  him^lf,   I   fired,   and   shot 


?    I 


198 


■,# 


l^im  4own»  He,  however,  rtcovered  suffi- 
ciendy  to  ascend  the  bank,  and  passed  me  So 
close,  that  in  a  fright  I  jumped  down,  with 
the  intention  of  retreating  to  the  river.  But 
finding  he  made  no  pursuit,  I  reloaded  ray  piece, 
followed  his  trail,  which  was  covered  with  blood, 
and  found  him  dead  about  one  hundred  yards 
distant  from  the  place  where  he  passed  me.  We 
afterwards  fouud  the  ball  had  entered  in  at  the 
breast,  and  passed  out  at  the  left  flank. 

From  Henderson,  which  is  the  last  town  on  the 
Ohio,  you  proceed  forty- six  miles,   when  you  ar- 
rive  at  the  mouth  of  Wabash  River.    This  is  a 
large  and  beautiful  stream  of  water  emptying  itself 
into  the  Ohio  from  the  right  side,  and  navigable 
for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles, 
interrupted,  however,  by  several  rapids,  among 
which  the  two  principal  are  known  by  the  hemes 
of  the  second  and  third  Grand  Rapids.  This  river 
is  about  two  hundred  and  eighty  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth,  and  is  the  largest  stream  which  I  have  yet 
seen  enter  the  Ohio.   St.  Vincent,  which  is  said  to 
be  a  considerable  tovyn,  and  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment for  the  Indiana  Territory,  is  situated  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles   from  the   mouth. 
Some  valuable  salt  springs  have  been  found  on 
this  river,  as  likewise  a  silver  mine  ;   but  few  of 
the  silver  discoveries  made  in  this  country  have 
t^ver  paid  for  the  time  and  trouble  lost  in  exa- 


mining:  them.  .A  communication  with  Lake  Erie, 
by  means  of  a  short  popfcAge  from  the  head  waters 
of  the  one  to  the  other,  is  opened  through  this 
rivei^:  dne  of  its  bra»ichc«  communicating  M-ith 
the  river  St.  Tosieph,  and  another  with  the  eastern, 
most  brarch  of  the  Miami  of  the  Ikkt, 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Wal>ash,  where  thet«  is 
only  one  settlement,  you  descend  thirty  miles,  and 
arrive  at  Shawanese  Town,  an  old  Indian  settle- 
ment on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  situated  a  little 
above  a  small  stream  named  Salina  Creelt.  This 
town  is  now  wholly  abandoned  by  its  ancient  pro- 
prietors, and  only  occasionally  visited  by  a  few  ol" 
them  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  five  or  six 
white  families,  who  compose  the  whole  of  its  set- 
tlement at  present.  Considerable  quantities  of  salt 
are  made  on  the  aforementioned  creek,  and  of  a 
very  good  quality ;  the  springs  belong  to  the  go- 
vemment,  and  are  leased  out  to  certain  contractors, 
who  are  hound  not  to  sell  the  salt  higher  than  half 
a  dollar  a  bushel  at  the  works.  These,  therefore, 
have  their  private  coparinet^,  who  buy  all  at  the 
lawful  price ;  and  as  the  property  has  then  appn. 
rently  changed  pwners,  they  sell  none  at  tlie  store- 
houses for  less  than  two  doilari  a  bushel. 

About  five  or  six  miles  below  Shawanese  Town, 
and  on  the  opposite  shore,  you  pass  some  high 
and  curiously  shaped  rocks,  which,  at  a  distance, 
bear  a  most  striking  resemblance  to  a  range  of 


// 


ii 


\ 


aoft 

forts  and  batteries,  and  have  very  appropriately 
obtained  the  name  of  the  Battery  Rocks. 

The  face  of  the  country  here  undergoes,  another 
change;  the  dull,  uniform,  and  uninterrupted  bori- 
zon,  which  has  tired  and  fatigued  the  eye  fgi:  the 
last  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  now  rises  again  on 
each  side  of  the  river  alternately,  and  to  me  ex- 
cites  far  more  agreeable  sensations,  than  the  ridi 
plains  we  have  just  passed. 

>  After  having  passed  the  Battery  Rocks,  you 
descend  about  seven  miles  further,  and  arrive  at 
a  very  curious  cavern  called  The  Cave  in  the 
Rock,  situated  oa  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in 
the  Territory  of  Indiana.  .  The  entrance  to  this 
singular  excavation  is  immediately  on  the  margin 
of  the  river,  the  whole  of  vVhich,  at  this  place, 
presents  a  solid  mass  of  perpendicular  rocks.  The 
door,  or  mouth,   which  is  of  a  semicircular  form, 
is  twenty-seven  paces  in  width,'  and  about  three 
or  four  and  twenty  in  height,  but  partly  obscured 
by  the  foliage  of  some  trees  and  brush,   now 
growing  in    front.      Its  lies  twenty  or  five    and 
twenty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river  at  pre- 
sent ;  but  when  the  water  is  higher,  I  presume  it 
may  be  entered  in  a  canoe.    After  having  entered 
a  few  yards,  you  find  yourself  in  a  large  and  spa- 
cious room,  sixty-two  paces  in  length,  and  almost 
the  same  in  wid^h,  with  a  projection,  something 
like  a  bench,  nearly  all  around ;  and  the  ceiling, 
or  roof,  which  is  of  an  elliptical  form,  is  about 
1 


201 

thJrty  feet  in  height.     In  many  places  yoq  may 
observe  several  rude  attempts  with  chalk  or  char- 

7f  M  T^  '°'"'  ^^"^  "^  '  ^^"^^^  °^  fig"^^'  but 
r  could  find  no  resemblance  to  any  thing  «  in  the 

heavens  above,  in  the  earth  beneath,  or  in  the 

waters  under  th.e  earth.-   In  some  few  places  you 

may  learn  the  names  of  former  visitors,  which 

tiiey  have  left  inscribed  on  the  rock.     I  could  not 

help  observing  what  a  very  convenient  situation 

this  would  be  for  a  hermit,  or  for  a  convent  of 

monks,  as  it  is  large  enough  to  accommodate  se- 

veral  hundreds  of  them.  From  an  examination  of 

Ae  cave,  I  have  no  doubt  that  it  has  been  the 

dwelhng  of  some  person  or  persons,  as  the  marks 

of  the  smoke,  and  likewise  some  wooden  hooks 

aflfixed  to  the  walls,  sufficienUy  prove.    Formerly' 

perhaps  it  was  inhabited  by  Indians;  but  since 

with  more  probability,  by  a  gang  of  that  banditti* 

headed  by  Mason  and  others,  who  a  few  years 

ago  mfested  this  part  of  the  countiy,  and  commit. 

ted  a  great  number  of  robberies  and  murders 

Near  the  centre  of  the  roof  you  discover  an 

aperture,  which  is  sufficiently  large  to  admit  a 

man,  and,  at  first  view,  has  die  appearance  of  bein^ 

mtended  to  carry  off  the  smoke ;  but,  as  I  have 

been  informed,  leads  to  another  pavem  above.    I 

intended  to-  make  some  contrivance  to  ascend  to 

It ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  storm  which  blew 

on  shore,  and  a  heavy  swell  which  threatened  to 


VOL.   I. 


e  c 


f 


i 


202 


1      I 


dash  our  boat  to  pieces  against  the  rocks,  I  t^as 
under  the  necessity  of  hastening  my  depfttturer 
Had  I,  however,  discovered  any  thing  that  pro- 
mised  fimher  amusement,  I  should  not  have  re- 
garded walking  back  four  or  five  miles,  after  having 
secured  the  boat  in  a  place  of  safet}'. 

Four  miles  below  the  cave  you  pass  Hurricane 
liand,  a  passage  formerly  considered  as  very  dan- 
cerous,  but  at  present  has  nothing  terrific  but  the 
Aamc.  Twenty-five  miles  below  the  island,  you 
come  to  a  public  ferry,  where  one  of  the  princi. 
pal  roads  from  Kentucky  to  the  Missouri  crosses 
the  river ;  and  five  miles  flirther,  on  tlie  left  side, 
you  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  Cumberland  River, 

Tltis  stream,  which  is  likewise  known  by  its 
more  ancient  name  of  the  Shawanese  Ri^r,  is 
abottt  two  hundred  and  eighty  yard*  wide,  aiul 
has  its  soii^ee  4n  the  Cumberland  mountains.  It  i« 
navigable  for  loaded  boats  of  sixty  barrels,  as  fa* 
as  Nashville,  which  is  about  sixty  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  still  further  for  smaller  craft;  but 
durmgthe  drj'  season,  no  large  boats  can  ascend 
with  any  thing  like  a  loading. 

At  the  mou^h  of  Cumberland  River,  which  lies 
in  lat.  37.  17.  N.  long.  88.  7.  W.,  is  a  small  set- 
tlement called  Smith  Town,  consisting  of  only 
five  houses.  The  situation,  however,  b  ex- 
tremely eligible  for  further  improvement ;  for  not 
only  are  large  quantities  of  cotton,  tobacco,  and 
Glhcr  produce,  annually  floated  down  this  stream, 


203 


IS   ex- 

;  for  not 
jco,  and 
i  stream, 


but  likewise  most  of  the  boats  descending  to  New 
Orleans  or  Natchez,  generally  make  a  halt  here, 
either  for  hands,  provisions,  boats,  or  repairs. 
This  little  place,  contrary  to  all  others  which  I 
have  seen  on  these  waters,  possesses  a  greatei 
number  of  inhabitants,  at  present,  thiui  its  size 
would  lead  us  to  suppose.  It  appears  to  be  a 
kind  of  inland  port,  where  runaway  boys,  idle 
young  men,  and  unemployed  boatmen,  assemble 
to  engage  as  hands  on  board  of  any  boats  that 
may  happen  to  call.     , 

An  amusement  has  already  been  introduced  at 
this  place,  which,  although  excusable  in  large 
towns  and  cities,  yet  in  a  new  country,  "and  espe- 
cially  in  an  infant  settlement  like  this,  cannot  be 
too  much  condemned.  You  will  scarcely  believe, 
that  in  a  place  just  emerging  from  the  woods, 
which,  although  advantageously  situated,  can  pros- 
per only  by  dint  of  industry  and  care,  and  where 
the  girdled  trees  which  surround  its  houses  threaten 
with  every  storm  to  crush  the  whole  settlement, 
— you  will  scarcely  believe,  I  say,  that  a  billiard- 
table  has  been  established,  which  is  continually 
surrounded  by  common  boatmen,  just  arrived 
from  the  Salt  Works,  St.  Louis,  or  St.  Genevieve, 
who  in  one  hour  lose  all  the  hard-earned  wages  of 
a  two  months  voyage  ! 

A  few  miles  below  Hurricane  Island,  we 
were  considerably  alarmed  one  evening  by  the 
whistling  of  a  rifle-shot,  which  passed  just  over 


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our  heads,  after  striking  the  water  between  us  and 
the  shore,  which  was  about  four  hundred  yards 
distant.  We  observed  three  Indians  on  the  banks 
from  whence  the  shot  proceeded,  and  the  boatmen 
were  decidedly  of  opinion  that  it  was  fired  at  us ; 
but  it  was  more  probably  aimed  at  a  deer,  which 
happened  at  that  moment  to  be  on  the  bank,  nearly 
in  a  right  line  with  the  boat,  and,  missing  its 
object,  it  had  passed  rather  too  close  to  us. 

I  had  nearly  forgotten  to  mention  a  singular 
circumstance  which  occurred  on  the  river  a  few 
miles  above  this  place.     Very  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  men  who  were  on  the  watch  informed 
me  that  a  large  bear  was  crossing  the  river  just 
below,  and  requested  permission  to  take  the  canoe 
and  give  him  battle.    I  consented,  and  at  the  same 
time  got  up  to  see  the  sport.    Our  two  sailors  set 
oft";  but  as  there  happened  to  be  no  flint  in  the 
rifle,  they  took  my  long  fowling-piece,  which  was 
loaded  with  buck-shot.     They  paddled  with  ail 
their    strength,  reserving  their    fire    until    they 
came  within  ten  yards  of  the  bear,  who  was  fast 
gaining  the  opposite  shore,   when  one  of  them 
fired,   but  overshot  his  mark.    The  boat,  all  this 
time,  was  under  such  great  way,  that  before  they 
could  recover  their  paddles  to  check  her,  she  ran 
along  side  of  the  bear,  who  immediately  seized  the 
gunwale  of  the  boat  with  both  paws,  and  before 
they  could  rise  up  to  assail  him  with  their  paddles, 


ft  r 


205 


he  overturned  the  canoe,  and  made  for  the  shore. 
One  of  the  men  had  the  presence  of  mind  to  dive 
under  water,  to  avoid  being  clinched  by  the  bear; 
the  other,  with  Inore  courage  than  prudeace,  fol- 
lowed  him  with  a  paddle,  but  finding  he  could 
not  prevent  his  escape,  presently  returned  to  the 
canoe.     I  was  much  diverted  with  this  whimsical 
bear-hunt,  until  I  discovered  that  it  was  likely  to 
be  more  at  my  expense  than  even  at  that  of  the 
disappointed  hunters ;   as  the  bear,. in  overturning 
the  canoe,  had  sent  my  gun  to  the  bottom.    The 
water  was  not  more  than  five  feet  deep  where  this 
accident  happened ;  yet  we  were  detained  more 
than  two  hours  before  we  recovered  the  gun. 

I  have  already  informed  you,  that  the  naviga- 
tion  of  the  Ohio  is  so  perfectly  safe,  as  to  require 
no  particuk.  directions  in  addition  to  those  given 
in  some  of  my  former  letters  on  this  subject.     I 
find  it  necessary,  however,  to  give  you  a  word  or 
two  respecting  the  fogs  and  falsity  of  vision  at 
night,  which  are  so  frequently  met  with  on  this 
river,  and,  although  not  attended  with  any  parti- 
cular  danger,  yet  they  are   often  the  means  of 
your  taking   a   wrong  course,  and   bewildering 
yourself  among  the  islands. 

The  Ohio,  particularly  in  the  spring,  is  subject 
to  be  covered  with  fogs,  which  sometimes  remain 
suspended  over  the  river  for  three  or  four  hours 
after  sun-rise,  during  which  it  is  very  difficult  to 
know  which  is  the  nearest  shore,  unless  previously 


\    . 


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acquwntc^  with  the  old  Indian  mode  of  ascertain- 
ing  UiU  point.    These  fogs  continue  longest,  and 
are  moht  frequent,  on  that  part  of  the  river  lying 
below  Cincijinati  a„d  the  Falls,  down  to  the  Mia- 
aissippi,  but  higher  up  are  far  less  troubjcsome. 
The  Ohio,  throughout  its   whole  course»  (with 
Tery  few  exceptions,)  is  subject  to  a  very  strong 
fcho;  and  the  method  to  ascertain  the  proximity 
of  either  shore,  is  to  strike  the  boat  with  a  dub 
or  an  axe,,  and  the  echo  will  be  first  heard  from  tht 
nearest  shore.   But  when  in  a  situation  where  no 
echo  is  R'turncd,  or  where  the  water  is  too  deep 
to  be  sounded  with  a  pole,  or  when  not  provided 
with  a  line,  tiike  a  tin  cup,  and  dip  up  water  from 
you  on  each  side  of  the  boat,  and  the  re  sistance 
of  the  current,  upon  one  of  the  trials,  will  soon 
satisfy  you  which  way  it  is  setting. 

The  falsity  of  vision  during  the  night,  on   the 
Ohio,  is  a  phenomenon  for  which  I  am  totally 
unable  to  account.    The  facts,  however,  as  they 
simply  occur,  are  as  follows :   Oftentimes,  when 
descending  this  river  in  the  night,  you  have  an 
inclination  to  land ;  you  generally  make  for  the 
nearest  shore,  which  to  all  appearance  is  not  more 
than   thiriy  or    forty    yards   distant;    yet,   after 
/owing  for  half  an  hour,  you  find  yourself,  appa. 
rently  no  nearer  than  you  were  before.    At  other 
times  you  will  suppose  yourself "  in  the  middle  of 
the  river,  at  least  half  a  mile  from  either  shore ; 
yet,  after  ten  minutes  rowing,  you  will  find  your- 


207 

self  all  at  once  ashore.    The  surest  way  to  be 
out  of  ihc  reach  of  this  deception,  when  you  do  not  ' 
wish  to  land,  is  to  take  the  middle  of  the  river, 
and  there  observe  the  reflection  of  the  banks  and 
trees   on  the    water.     You    will   then   discover, 
that  the  reflection  of  the  trees  on  either  side  ex- 
tend  to  more  than  one-third  of  the  general  width 
of  the  river,  whilst  between  them  you  will  see  a 
clear  space  like  a  channel ;  and  as  long  as  you 
keep  within  this  space,  you  are  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  magic  circle. 

The  price  of  land  along  the  Ohio,  as  you  will  rea- 
dily  suppose,  depends  on  its  quality  and  situation. 
Good  improved  bottom  lands  on  the  river,  sell 
from  two  to  ten  dollars  an  acre;  further  back, 
from  two  to  five  doaars ;  but  rough  hilly  lands, 
containing  small  portions  of  good  land,  may  be 
bought  in  large  tracts  from  one  dollar  down  to 
fifty  cents  an  acre. 


t 


Yoiu^, 


C.  S. 


KND  OF  THE  FIRST  VOLUME 


-A.  -...^.^ 


' .  'w»*ajJWr;,_^^ 


